COEHR

hey guys im really having trouble figuring out my problem ive been having this issue or it just started happening right after i changed the therm and radiator from autozone yes i know... autozone . any way in the morning its fine warms up cool pretty quick if i can say, but over all its ok when im driving but when im start hitting a stop or a light on a hill when im stop ill start to see the needle going up slowly but when at a stop even bypassing the cooling fan switch running the fan on all the time i checked my compression and its (1. 190 2. 182 3. 183 4. 190) cap and coolant ress isnt milky or anything like that i changed i bought a duralast one had the problem returned it got the "better one " failsafe and still having the same problem left the rad cap off for 20 mins for air bubbles idk what else to check -___-

motor : b20v b16 head
car : civic si

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Are the fans coming on?

COEHR

fans were coming on but i ran it straight so it comes on all the time when i turn on my car and it the needle starts climbing slowly after like a 30min drive

COEHR

checked the coolant and the res was still how i left it and i think the rad too

COEHR

but i did have to fill it once thou but it was earlier in the day when it was hot as hell

Eg5ir1

Flush/clean out all the old coolant from the motor and radiator . Mines did the same thing, at stops it started heating up but as soon as I hit the gas the temp dropped to normal . I cleaned out the coolant and it ran like a charm after that. Good luck

COEHR

did that twice already even tried to bleed it couple times

Swap'DShuttle

Might be a silly question but how is your ignition timing? If its too far retarded it could be causing a problem, also check that your thermostat isn't faulty.

redm3turbo

did you bleed it correctly? i.e. jacked up the front end?

CFiannotti

Did you try, running the cabin heater on hot, to see if the temperature would go down?

Deetz

I used to have this problem with my crx years ago....solution, water wetter

kwijibodavid

sounds stupid but makesure ur using a 50/50 mix and not pure antifreeze. if its pure get an antifreeze tester and drain and refill

COEHR

changed the therm twice, i have not bleed it right and right now the mix is pretty much pure anti mixed with water and 50/50 lol but im sure its watered down now when i turn on the heater it does go down but it only works for a cool min but if im at a stop for a min it still goes up

Hidenplanvew

Try and burp the motor

98.4DR.EK.D16

been done

98.4DR.EK.D16

in for answers, i want to say a DAMAGED HEADGASKET, not bad or blown headgasket just damaged. you should run the car abit hard and after check to see if your getting bubbles to the resovoir or radiator.

jbpnoman

Damaged is blown, period. If a head gasket is damaged, it is done. It's bad. It's blown.

"...run the car abit hard..." Really? No. You don't dog a car with a blown head gasket unless you want to grenade it. Please don't give advice like that to people.

OP, assuming you've fully flushed the system correctly, and assuming you've bled it correctly, go to your local parts store and rent the tools you need to do both a compression test as well as a block test.

98.4DR.EK.D16

#1 i was only implying that the headgasket was not shot to death because he isnt spewing coolant when he revs

#2 i see what you mean, perhaps i was not clear, i simply ment to hit higher rpms to see if compression would produce enough bubbles in the coolant for him to know the headgasket is blown

#3 compression was stated
i noticed my headgasket was my issue when i was on the dyno spewing coolant everytime my rpms would go up past 4.5k and once vtec hit it was niagra falls lol

98.4DR.EK.D16

if you had to fill up it might be a HG after all, maybe your spewing coolant like i was to the point that you had to fill up

ill try to post a video for you within a few

jbpnoman

Ah, I missed those numbers. they're a tiny bit on the low side, but within range. I would still follow up with a block test.


Also, assuming I'm reading this post correctly, the OP admits he has not correctly bled the system. 20 minutes isn't always enough time for the radiator fan to start up, which is usually the indicator of when you've started burping. Started, not finished. You're finished with the air bubbles stop. On a healthy car, I usually let it sit there running for about an hour while I go watch some TV. On a less than healthy car (I.E. the OP's car) I would sit there and watch it for that hour.

OP, if you're having to refill your coolant at ALL, you have a leak somewhere. If a leak isn't obviously visible (check your hoses, radiator top, thermostat, and thermostat seals), it's probably internal. Internal leak means blown head gasket, or cracked sleeve(s), but if you had a cracked sleeve, you'd know it.

Also, get a Honda OEM thermostat. There are plenty of people who swear by Failsafe thermostats, but I've also read plenty of horror stories about them. Pay a little more now, or pay a lot more later.

No one's asked, and the OP hasn't stated, but I guess it's a safe assumption that the car in question is a standard, and not an automatic? Stupid question, but it's better than overlooking something.

98.4DR.EK.D16

98.4DR.EK.D16

youd say my car CLEARLY had a headgasket issue, but it NEVER overheated (at least not on me, i bought the engine and just finished swapping it in) this only became clear on the dyno (since i had to baby the engine before tuning) and that is why i asked the OP to "run his car abit hard"

jbpnoman

It's a minor miracle if you didn't warp your head. If it risks more damage, it generally isn't a very good diagnostic tool. Think of it this way - If you went to a doctor complaining that you couldn't feel your foot, would you rather s/he did tests to figure it out, or just took a big needle and started stabbing until you felt something? I don't know about you, but I'm not a fan of needles

As for the OP, we need a proper bleeding procedure and an OEM thermostat, then we can go from there.

COEHR

thanks guys for all the replys and lets keep this thread drama free lol , but sorry for not really being clear but for now checked the compression was about 185-190 across, right now i really haven't been adding water to anything, trying not to drive it far since i don't have extra money for tows and stuff but ive been driving around the house i would say 30 mins worth or so, i was taking a look at my harness plugs like coolant temp sensor and ect. i seen the lil single pin nipple kinda hanging by like threads so i was thinking it was that (maybe) so i took it apart and re-crimped it if thats how u say it but their was another plug that looked like it was too so i took it apart and re did that one also.. i just did this today around 7pm so it was cool out and drove it around it it seems better now but i cant be to sure ill see what happens 2marro when its hotter also norman ur right spend the money for oem stuff especially important **** like the cooling system, its really my fault full time student part time job , moneys tight lol ima try this out hopefully it was just a wiring problem but next week ill get a oem therm and actually bleed it right didnt know u had to jack it up, like i said thanks again guys keep the responses coming

98.4DR.EK.D16

Anytime! Good luck an keep us updated! As for my issue yes, i will be chaging the gasket soon and when i do i will take the head to a machine shop and have it checked as well