Stonecoldn69

So I have searched, found some info from each post. I have a 95 civic cx d15b7 16valve sohc non-vtec. I've recently replaced the rad, found the system was getting over pressurized, so a thermostat ensued. Now I seem to still have the overpressurizing issue. I had a close call on over heating when a line blew off and the temp got just past half way. However, I haven't found any tell tale signs of a head gasket issue. No white smoke, no coolant in cylinders. Is it remotely possible for the exhaust to get into the system? I haven't overheated since the hose blew off and everything seems to be kosher except the pressure. Not entirely sure that a airpocket can cause this. I have heat all the time as well. Only 102k on the motor and a Machineshop stamp that the head has been machined once before. If the general feeling is the headgasket, I've read that the d16y8 gasket from 96to00 civic ex is the one to use. Also praying head didnt crack due to close call and cause this.
Thx for all your time

94EG8

Headgaskets fail pretty commonly in that way on those engines, engine runs fine with no abnormal symptoms other than exhaust gas pushing coolant into the reservoir. Generally speaking once you blow a headgasket in a D15B7 they fail regularly every 6 months to a year after and or they start burning oil. Your best bet would be a low mileage JDM engine, they're a very cost effective way out. If you do want to try a headgasket though use an OEM Y8 gasket and ARP headstuds for a D15B7.

exb18c1

What is the milage on the car?Why did you change the rad to start with?You are talking repetedly about overpressure.How do you know it?What hose exactly did you blew? The answers might help in future diagnostics.The line wouldn't blow if the temperature goes only a bit past half.It really have to run hot. The most simple thing you could do is pressure testing the rad and monitor the pressure.Pressure test the cap also.It still might not reveil the problem as some of them occuring when motor comes to certain temperatures,but for the most times it's pretty useful.If you have the heat at all time that means that there is no airpockets.This model had a bleeder screw so use it when filling up the coolant.What would be the thing to check is the kicking of the fan.Does the car has A/C?

Stonecoldn69

Thanks for the replys, sorry bout the missing info. I'll have to look up ARP studs, is there any need to replace the studs or is it routine for headgasket replacement?
The line that blew was the main one going to thermostat (lower rad hose) Also the old rad was weeping around the seal on top. The motor itself has 100k kms on it, came from granny's wrecked car after she got rearended. There is no a/c just an alternator. The overpressuring I'm talking about is when I visually watch the over flow receive air/coolant from the cap opening (not by me pressure itself). The cap itself is a Honda cap, I also have a 16lb NAPA cap. I've let the engine run from cool till the thermostat opens and I'm seeing air bubble flow out, I top up and continue alas always air and overflows out here and there while I let it run. Another neat thing is I watch the level drop when the fan kicks on as well. The fan works thankfully. The pressure test will be my next step I suppose to narrow it down, if I can get my hands on one.

Stonecoldn69

Oh the old Motor I had suffered a seafoam death being rodnocking and a mass compression loss, thus granny's engine was good timing for me. The car itself has 400k km on it.

94EG8

Normally when you replace a headgasket you replace the headbolts, for about the same price you can buy aftermarket ARP headstuds that stretch a lot less than headbolts do.

exb18c1

So what are the temperature now? Is it climbing up?What happens if you will rev the engine to 3000 rpm till the fan comes on?

Stonecoldn69

Good to know about the headstuds, the temperature on the car stays consistent on the needle gauge. Exact numbers will be found tomorrow when I get a infrared thermometer from work.

ozh_hawaiian

you may have air in the system... especially if you put in a new radiator, and didint blled the cooling system... your model should have a bleeder screw where the upper rad hose meets the block... I just changed the coolant in my Y7, and it doesnt have a bleeder screw, so I had to do like you did which was let the car run with the rad cap off, and fill as necessary as the level drops(like you experienced) I was getting impatient, and thought I was all good, so I was gonna just stop, but there was bubbles coming out for like 20 min... and Im glad I waited, cause when the bubbles stopped, you could tell that there was no more air in the system

Hidenplanvew

Screw jdm, throw a Ls in there and enjoy it more

Stonecoldn69

Well I thought I may have got all the air out, however I suppose this is all in vain. I have a timing belt/water pump to do due in the next 1k km so I get to do a repeat. I just did a re-inspection of the plugs and piston crowns and thankfully didn't find a steamcleaned piston. So I will let it ride till then. Will repost when I do a pressure test. Thanks for the info.

Stonecoldn69

Well after doing a clutch, I replaced my thermostat with a $35 Canadian Honda one over the $6 napa one, no more over pressure and pissing coolant out of the rad cap, hoses are nicen'soft and not rock hard at temperature. Went ahead and did a combustion chamber gas test in the coolant; test was negative. Can't beat OEM stuff. Now does after market waterpump/timing belt compare to napa? Cheers and thx for help

94EG8

Buy a genuine Honda water pump. The aftermarket ones leak well before they're due for replacement again. The belt you could either by a Gates through Napa or get a real one from Honda, there's not that much of a price difference. Also some of Honda's timing belts are made by Gates (some, not all)

Stonecoldn69

Then that's that's what I'll do, thanks.

Hidenplanvew

I never had problems with napa waterpumps...