Hitmo

Hi all,

I'm currently doing a B18C4 (Equivelent to the B18C GSR/Si you have in the states) swap into a Facelift 1.4 EJ9, therefore I will be using a OBD2B EK9 loom with a OBD2B -> OBD1 conversion harness and p28/p30 chipped ecu. I'm doing the wire tuck with the engine out of the car apart from the headlight tuck obviously. So my questions are:

1. Do I have all the wiring needed for the swap? These are all the wires I recieved from the EK9 loom, everything else will be from the exisitng EJ9 loom.



2. I know the wiring connectors from the driver side strut tower will have to be fed back through the car, and out through a newly made hole here (morfs pics)







So therefore should I have connectors 1 & 2 (from above pic) aim to come out the centre of the engine to meet the drivers strut connectors. And extend connector 3 (from above pic) to go through the newely made hole in the firewall and into the ecu.



5. Once thats done, I can go ahead and extend/compress wires to reach each sensor on the engine through the most hidden route, is that correct?

6. I want to sleeve the harness so what size and how much sleeving & heat shrink should I buy?

7. How do I depin these types of connectors?







Thanks in advance!
Hitmo

MonkeyMagic

looks like you have everything there

search for the wire tuck theory thread.. i think it is in the appearance and cosmetic forum on here. but there you'll find a good mass of info.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

1001 pages.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-acura-28/shaved-tucked-customized-engine-bays-pics-theory-discussion-1693934/

Hitmo

Yeah I've read that already, can't find the answer to these questions

MonkeyMagic

maybe because you are asking specific questions to an otherwise inspecific science? everything depends on exactly where you put the wires, how tight you want them, how sloppy your soldering is, etc, etc.

only question we can actually answer is 'how do i depin these connectors?' you pull out the white plastic piece and then use a pin tool or eyeglass screwdriver to release the locks holding the wires.

HondaTom87

all of your questions are answered in that thread on the first page...
but i will give you your answers

all of the engine harness connections should be made under the dash (the driver side plugs)

what you want to do is label all of your plugs and unwrap the entire harness.
for each plug that plugs into the chassis harness (the driver side plugs) draw up a pin out diagram and de-pin each plug. do the same for the ecu side of the harness.

before you plug anything in take each sensor plug with their wiring and put the sleeving on the wiring with the appropriate sized heat shrink tubing up to the plug and shrink the the heat shrink tubing so the sleeving doesn't come off.

nylon sleeving sizes will range from 3/8" to 1 1/2" or 2" sleeves
heat shrink sizes will be about the same but I just get a lot of all sizes cause you never know when you will need to solder something of wire something up.

now plug in every sensor in it appropriate location on the motor (while it is out of the car)
route the wiring from each sensor in an inconspicuous manor so that they end up behind the intake manifold so that they would be running along the rear mount/t bracket.
zip tie or use a little piece of electrical tape to hold the sensor wires together as they come in contact with another sensors wiring. I really don't know any other way to word that. you want to be able to get the wire to create the final design of the harness so that you can sleeve it and heat shrink and pin the harness and be done.

let me know if you need any more help

and everyone else if I left anything out please feel free to add it

Hitmo

Thank you kind sir!

That thread is full of so much info I just get lost! I will have another read of it now

Hitmo

One question, here you said to sleeve each plug before I plug it in and modify it:

But then you go on to say sleeve the harness after all the extending is done?

Surely it would be best to get the complete design in just plain wire first, then once its all been extended or contracted, sleeve everything up?

HondaTom87

you shouldn't be extending any wires all you are doing is re-routing them.
I was just giving a quick summation of the process
and the way I do it is sleeve each individual plug/wires before routing them then I sleeve a few groups together then I sleeve all the groups together to the main plugs and re-pin the ecu/gauge plugs.


also you can delete a few wires such as the oil pressure light switch wire and i'm not 100% on the harness you are using but you can take the plug from the driver's side that is all the yellow injector wires and grounds and eliminate the plug and solder all the wires together. I have done that multiple times and I have never had any issues I just do it to get rid of the plug I try not to cut the wires at all so as to not mess with the lengths being that they are injector wires and that could change the resistance of the wiring...

I am not 100% on the resistance comment but I am pretty sure you will get drivability issues if you mees with the injector wiring

Hitmo

I see, I don't think I will be trying to delete any wires on this tuck, possibly later on when I'm more confident with it, but thanks for the info!

So absolutely no wires need to be extended or even cut, just depinned and re-routed? What about when relocating the fuse box and battery, and when doing a headlight tuck, these wires need to be extended to reach so surely that would change the resistance?

Hitmo

Bump!

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Dude! Post your questions in the wire tuck thread. I'm sure someone that has actually done this will be able to answer you.

HondaTom87

on an ek no wires need to be extended for the headlight wiring I have done 6 ek wire tucks and the only wires that I had to extend were the power wires for the battery to the fuse box and starter. everything just needs to be pulled back and rerouted.

MonkeyMagic

^first hand experience is priceless.

this should be tagged and searchable