Jimi Hondrix

1998 Civic EX, Stock D16Y8, AT, 148K miles. Purchased in December 2014.

Tying up loose ends and consolidating recent related threads into this final one, Synopsis is car overheats in college age daughter's use, Coolant hose under distributor slits open and leaks (most likely due to previous O-ring oil leak) Combustion leak test positive for blown head gasket...depression sets in.

Related Recent Threads
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https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...-loss-3246830/
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...-info-3247326/
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...asket-3247672/

Head is off and at local machine shop. Checked block surface with straight edge and feeler gauge and it's well within specs. Time to address the block's stripped thread and I know I can do a Helicoil but, can I just tap it out to the next size up and purchase an 11mm x1.25mm bolt to save some cash?

I marked the timing gear and belt while at TDC , pulled the time belt off the gear and zip tied it to keep tension (avoid jumping teeth). I showed the machine owner the mark on the gear (still on cam) and described to him what I did to the timing belt at TDC. He said he would put it back exactly as I brought it too him. Out of curiosity what would happen if it isn't the same when given back and how would I correct it?

These are the parts I ordered ( rear main seal additional for future repair) from Hondapartsnow:

91214-PAA-A01 (Replaced by: 91214-PLE-003) Rear Main Oil Seal (80X100X10)
1 $14.21
90008-PZ1-003 Bolt-Washer (10X120.5) 10 $2.39ea $23.90
12251-P2J-004 Gasket, Cylinder Head 1 $32.18
18115-P2A-003 Gasket, Exhaust Manifold (Nippon Leakless) $11.59
17105-P2F-A02 Gasket, Intake Manifold 1 $6.11
12210-PZ1-004 Seal A, Valve Stem (Nok) 8 $1.20ea $9.60
12211-PZ1-004 Seal B, Valve Stem (Nok) 8 $1.20ea $9.60
91213-P2F-A01 Oil Seal (29X45X8 1 $3.77
30110-PA1-732 O-Ring (26.4X3.1) (Tec) 1 $1.58
19301-PAA-306 Thermostat Assy. (Nippon Thermostat) $18.58
19305-PT0-000 Rubber, Thermostat Mounting 1 $2.87

TomCat39

That's always possible however, how do you know the bolt will be to the same specification as the other 9 bolts? I'm not aware of Honda selling over sized bolts. And that would be my biggest concern. If you were using ARP head studs, then you would know regardless of size, they would all be to a certain specification.

As for helicoil, I'd direct you to time serts as they seem to be an even better and more permanent solution than helicoil.

++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,

Hope this information proves helpful to you.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

I believe you can specify a particular grade bolt/stud if you go the oversized route. I'll second the time sert over a helicoil.

tony_2018

If you tap it out to a bigger bolt your daughter will hate you for the rest of her life, your unborn grandchildren will not want anything to do with you, rumors will go around and you will lose your job, your neighbors will whisper amongst themselves, Ron will ban you for such a childish...no....a noobie mistake, you will live a lonely life with that civic still in your driveway, taunting you because it knows you can never get rid of it, it looks at you with its big mouth sucking away at your will, day after day, and no matter what you do to get it running right it will **** coolant at your stay there forever and ever.




-The End

Bently_Coop

When replacing the head gasket you should be setting the timing and tension along with verifying it by three revolutions. It really isn't that difficult. Mostly connecting the dots. Check out the sticky there is a very good write up in there about this.

Jimi Hondrix

Going with one of these: Solid Threaded Inserts | Carbon Steel Inserts | E-Z LOK or http://www.ezlok.com/inserts-for-met...aded-inserts.I am going to call this company tomorrow to verify which type and size (kit) I should use. The E-Z Lok helicoil kit sells for a little over $20, less than half the price of the Helicoil brand (patent expired). I will take a look at the head gasket sticky... Thanks.

tony_2018

GL. Its not hard really.

Jimi Hondrix

Some downtown waiting for the gaskets/parts that arrived earlier this week on Sunday.
Brought the valve seals to the machinist on Tuesday and picked up the head from him on Thursday. It's surfaced, sealed, shiny and he showed me how he lined it back up the same way I brought it to him. Very nice and informative guy,
Yesterday I piggybacked two helicoils in position #6 (torque sequence) of the cylinder block as suggested by a technician from the helicoil brand U.S.distributor. Went smooth other than I had to purchase a T-style handle for the tapping bit because the one in my (deceased) father's tap and die set was missing a V-groove insert. I also cleaned the tops of the piston walls which took longer than expected. I will install the head gasket and cylinder head later this morning.

Before I put the head and head-gasket on what should I double check before doing so?
Reminder:1st piston is TDC, timing belt was marked (white out),+ cam gear was marked + belt was marked and slipped off (tensioner was not loosened) and zip-tied to keep tension to avoid jumping teeth. The lower timing belt cover is still on..should I remove it to help visualize the timing marks on the crank pulley? After the head is on is it okay to turn the engine over manually to do a valve lash? If so, what should I be looking for or listening for that might tell there was an error made in mechanical timing?
I may be over-thinking this but really hope to get this right the first time.

Do the Intake manifold nuts have a torque spec?

Slipped off a belt and used alignment marks like this:

tony_2018

If your lower timing belt cover is on you should be fine, no need to worry about the belt jumping a tooth UNTIL the head is back on. Torque the head bolts as recommend by the honda manual or if you went got aftermarket head bolts than torque it per manufactures instructions. GL

TomCat39

You don't need to remove the lower timing belt cover to verify mechanical timing.

Once you have the head back and timing belt back on in what you to believe is the same spot it was, you can spin the crank counter clockwise until you get the sole mark (single mark away from the 3 marks on the pulley) into the timing sites on the timing belt cover. You can then verify the cam sprocket is in position with the UP pointed up and any other marks on the cam gear will be in their respective positions for #1 being TDC.

Also, don't assume your zip tie job is going to maintain the proper tension on the timing belt. As soon as you slip the belt over the cam gear you will need to do the timing belt tensioning procedure that is in the FSM.

Simply, don't rely on all your tricks and assume everything is exactly as it was before removal. You must verify mechanical timing (no need to remove lower cover to do that) and also must set tension. Not doing either of these things can be potentially catastrophic.

Fortunately, checking mechanical timing and setting tensions are really easy and straight forward.

And yes, the intake and header both have torque specs and sequences on the nuts and bolts. All if which can be found in the FSM just like the head bolts, timing etc etc.

W95civicEXcoupe

Help us! (*first time with mine, too)

EDIT: I see you are helping us, so, I thank you!

Jimi Hondrix

Tony, Tomcat.. thank you. Tomcat that is sound advice that I will follow. I''d hate to have the time and money spent turn to **** by not taking proper steps. Only had a few hours to work on it today and I put in a new OEM thermostat and gasket in, got the cylinder head and gasket on and torque sequenced (x4 per FSM) to spec. Cleaned out all carbon buildup from the inside of the valve cover and cleaned the outside. The knock sensor plastic housing came loose so, I removed it and put some Yamabond on it in hopes that it will still work and not throw a CEL. I called around and they're about $110 unless I go used for $15 or try this one:
Tomorrow I plan to reinstall the knock sensor, bolt manifold and intake in. get timing marks aligned per FSM.

Jimi Hondrix

Something I didn't even think about from the start that may be an issue. Coolant leaked into piston cylinders (2 & 3 at bottom of stroke) and I cleaned all of it out. What occurred to me last night (hours after fastening head down) is: I didn't think to crank the engine over manually (with head removed) to check pistons 1 & 4 for coolant because I didn't want to move form TDC.

Another issue is that during the time it took to get the part in and head back from machine shop piston walls 2 & 3 developed slight surface rusted even though I oiled them and stuck lint-free rags in them and covered the block with a plastic garbage bag and lint free cloths. I cleaned them by putting a small rag to cover piston tops and used light (3M grey zero ought) scotch bright and wd-40.,, afterwards I vacuumed out and wipe down the piston cylinder and they seem very smooth. However, just as with the possibility of coolant lying underneath of piston 1 & 4..could there be rust as well?

As a side note I've read through some internet articles on the hazards of using scotch bright pads and besides vacuuming and wiping the walls I plan to do an oil and coolant change with a few hours of engine use (if all goes well). Before I go any further I hope to get replies..
Starting to feel I might be in over my head (no pun intended) on this one but, must press on and try to catch mistakes before I get to far along in the assembly stage.

tony_2018

As long as the head bolts are torque properly, new gaskets were used (its cool that you replace the thermostat again), timings on the cam gear and crank are dead on than you should be fine.

As for small pools of coolant in the cylinder, you clean it up the best you could so the rest will probably be turned to mist or blown out of your exhaust.

Light surface rust should be ok to remove as long as you didn't use a really touch scotch pad. I mean it was just there for the week on vacation, sitting in your cylinder walls.

Jimi Hondrix

In my afterthought my concern is the possibility of small pools of coolant lying under pistons 1 & 4 that are currently on upstroke TDC. So you think if that is the case they should be fine? if so, does it evaporate during engine use or get blown out of exhaust as you stated? I guess my thought process at the time (before bolting head on) was the compression on 1 & 4 should have pushed coolant out of those two cylinders and compression rings should have kept coolant and rust from intruding.

tony_2018

How much of a pool was it?

Like deep dish pool?

Jimi Hondrix

An inch or less IIRC. The stripped head bolt was in torque sequence location #3 (not in position 6 as previously posted) also, the most warping was between 2nd and 3rd cylinders.
Is it possible that coolant leaked into those two cylinders only? I've seen a few other head-gasket post that had the same issue and they said to wipe out coolant and proceed.
I might be over-thinking it but, I feel it is questionable.

tony_2018

nothing to worry, really.

Jimi Hondrix

I hope you're right. Being that I feel like I am in panic mode I created a thread at another forum site. Got some good answers and maybe some I might not want to hear..lol:
Blown Headgasket Coolant in Cylinders - Honda Civic Forum

tony_2018

I could've sworn you said you were going to change your oil anyways...if not than you should before starting the car. Thats why I said you should be fine.

Jimi Hondrix

Yes i plan to as the other gentlemen suggest on CFC.
Thank you Tony for all your replies. I got the intake manifold on today and will get the exhaust on and will poor oil in the oil return holes then remove/clean/reinstall oil pan tomorrow. Knock sensor is broke so I will try and find one at local junk yard tomorrow. Saving the timing setup for last step.