j-z

no one can answer my question and i need brakes.... hopefully someone in here can help me

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1871357

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

I didn't look at the link, but you don't need a new MC or BB for a rear disc swap.

j-z

ok well you shouldve read the link and youd know why i need a bigger MC. i have type r brakes up front, and just now went rear disc...

j-z

do the eg SIs have a 15/16 MC? if so ill just go get one of those and use my stock BB because this **** just aint working for me.... read the link and get the whole story and youll know what im talking about.

j-z

ok, after some researching on google i dont see why my setup wont work how it is now. DC BB, and DA 15/16 MC. the problem was that the brakes would eventually lock up after driving for a few mins. does ANYBODY know what would cause this?? yes, i know that someone in my other thread already mentioned what it could be, but i adjusted the rod as short as i can and it still compresses the piston in the MC when i bolt it on to the BB. right now i have the MC spaced off the BB with some washers just so i can drive it to work without the brakes locking up on me. something def isnt right, i just need some help figuring out exactly what it is. this is really pissing me off as it was supposed to cost me $0 because the car came with the rear disc when i bought it. i just installed them last week or so... shoulda kept the 240... grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j-z &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok well you shouldve read the link and youd know why i need a bigger MC. i have type r brakes up front, and just now went rear disc... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Umm, so you ran 11.1" 5-lug brakes in the front and stock 4-lug drums till now?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j-z &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do the eg SIs have a 15/16 MC? if so ill just go get one of those and use my stock BB because this **** just aint working for me.... read the link and get the whole story and youll know what im talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, they came with 13/16" MC. The EX ABS and Si ABS came with 15/16" but will not bolt up to your stock booster and plus one line has a 12mm fitting.

Just buy a 94-95 Integra RS 15/16" MC and BB. A 91 Civic EX 15/16" MC will bolt up fine with the stock BB.

MasterKwan

"Brakes eventually lock up" suggests sticking caliper or bad lines from the body to the caliper. They sometimes collapse internally and cause the brakes to stick on. I'd be checking the pins too. If they ever stick, it'll act like a stuck caliper too.

I have 11" Legend brakes on the front of mine with 4 lug hubs and re-drilled prelude rotors. Never any issues with it locking up with the stock DX MC/BB and prop valve.

j-z

i just bought the car not too long ago... the car came with the rear disc and i just recently put them on. yes, type r up front and drums out back. stoped really good, but i wanted to throw the disc on since i already had them. see right now i have a DC (duno the year, it was at a yard and i pulled it off...) BB with a 92 MC. the MC is a new unit from the parts store and bolts up to my stock hardlines perfect and to the booster. its just that the rod in the booster is too long, so when i bolt the MC on it compresses the piston in the MC keeping pressure on it like that no matter what. thanks for the info on what 15/16'' MC will work on my stock BB. should i keep the DC BB on there and get a DC MC?? or, go with a ef MC on my stock booster?? i guess whichever one they have at the store when i call tomorrow. i just dont know why the da mc and dc bb wont work with each other.

j-z

ok well i got the ef 15/16'' MC and it fits perfect on my stock BB (the one that came on the car). the piston doesnt get pushed in when i bolt it on or anything. BUT i still have a stiff pedal and no brakes. i dont know what gives... this bb worked perfect before i took it off. does ANYONE have any suggestions???

ev13lf

if you've got a solid pedal and still have no brakes, it sounds like there is a blocked/crushed line. do you have no brakes in the back or no brakes all the way around?

j-z

nah, i have some brakes, but barely hardly any at all. if i jam it down as hard as i can itll slow the car down, but it wont stop it. eventually it would, but would take quite a bit of time. i just downshift, use the ebrake, and a lil bit of pedal towards the end. ive mainly been using my ebrake as my main stopping source. NONE of the lines or calipers are fucked.... each corner bleed fluid and i could see the caliper moving back and forth while my roomate was pumping them. its not that. i know its probaby something really simple... something to do with the booster/MC situation. i just dont know what it could be because ive gone through everything. i duno... anymore suggestions?

j-z

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LIKKLEbit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello... I didnt see any mention of the proportioning valve being changed / replaced. I have read in a few places that the proportioning valve needs to be changed???</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah ive read both, where it does need to be changed and where it doesnt.... another note, you cant even tell what size valve you have other then what car it came off of... plus, if it was the proportioning valve i wouldnt get good fluid to any caliper like i am. i think it has something to do with the booster... because while we were bleeding them they pumped fine and the pedal felt like how it was supposed too. right when i started it up and went for a test drive i could already feel the pedal get stiff and no brakes. it braked fine before we first started it because i was rolling it back and forth in my garage and hitting the brakes. when i did that it felt like it shouldve, so i think it has something to do with the booster. im just already sick of this ****. ive got alot of parts to go get my money back on now, so i guess i didnt spend that much money once all is said and done, and itll be brand new ****. granted the booster thats on there is the one that came stock on this car. should i go ahead and get a new one of those or what? would too much ******* around with the rod adjustment do this?

awsnap

I posted on your other pst too. I'm going to have to check (all 8 flares) but I'm starting to wonder if I crushed a flare or two, esp the ones on the master cylinder. What it feels like to me is that the pressure on the brake side (as opposed to the fluid reservoir side) continues to build on it's own and never dissipates. This is either due to heat or a return blockage. I quickly jacked the car and both the pass side wheels were locked up and they are not paired together on the same 'side' of the prop valve. So you would assume then that it's the MC or BB. Also heat can't be an issue because all (or at least two) of the calipers are tightening up. Help us out guys!