Cap'N Chronic

First off, I need a new clutch for my Civic. I'm probably going to just get a cheap one because I don't really have cash to spare, and anything is better than what I have now.

My first question is which B series clutches are interchangeable? Not positive on what transmission I have so I want to be safe.

Second, how do you know what kind of transmission you have? The guy I bought the car from said it was a B16 out of an Si. But after everything that's gone wrong with it I'm kind of worried it might not be. And I have a B18B1 non-vtec if that helps any.

Third, has anyone had any experience with ebay clutches? Exedy and F1 racing seem to be the only companies I can really find and I'm curious if they're any good or not.

If anyone has any input on any of this please help me out! Thanks!

eka11day

I might be wrong, but i BELIEVE all b series clutches are interchangeable so long as you know what type you have; i.e. cable/hydro.
You can tell what transmission you have by the stamping on the case.
As far as ebay clutches go, personally I know exedy clutches are decent, but i've never even heard of anyone running F1 Racing. I wouldnt run a clutch if it wasnt SFI certified, so i'd probably use that as the deciding factor.

Cap'N Chronic

I'm not sure if its cable or hydro. How do you tell? And where is this stamping on the case you speak of?

Cap'N Chronic

And as for the stages, does it really matter what stage it is? Like what would happen if I got a stage 3 on a stock motor.

Right now I'm looking at getting a stage one because I will just be getting minor bolt ons for now.

1988montecarlos

you could use a clutch rated to hold more power, but it would be a waste of money unless you had plans of making a lot more power in the near future. just get a "stage 1" clutch or whatever theyre called

98civdx

It really doesn't matter, assuming the clutch is hydro to hydro.

The stage really depends on the maker of the clutch. Someones stage 2, doesn't equal another stage 2.

A stage 3 on a stock motor, is WAY overkill.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

A hydro trans will have a hydraulically operated clutch. Generally speaking, if you have a 92+ civic or 94+ integra, you have a hydraulic clutch. Unless some insane person took out the master cylinder, changed the pedal assembly, and ran a clutch cable just run a cable clutch for no reason.

I would recommend an OEM replacement or Stage1 at the most unless you're boosted or have very extensive N/A mods to put you in the 210 WHEEL horse power range. To get this from a B16, you would no longer have a street engine. A heavier clutch just means more annoying driving. I have a Exedy Hyper Single (stage 4?) in my S2000. Bad decision. It's really annoying on the street and it's like driving a car with an on/off switch. Lots of chatter. Lots of pedal effort. Lots of panther-esque noises. People are always wondering WTF is wrong with me/my car as I jerk the car through the parking lot with the clutch screaming. The reason I bought it is because you pretty much just have to tap the pedal to shift because the clutch disengages within the first inch of travel...which is very useful at the track. Low inertia is great on track as well for fast downshifting and really good throttle response. The clutch/flywheel weighs like 10lbs less than my stock lightened AP1 S2000 assembly. But it's SOOOOOOOO annoying in traffic and I kinda regret getting something that aggressive. Plus I'm sure it's terrible for my drivetrain and engine to have a race clutch. I track the car often...but I also street drive it very often. Shoulda got like a stage 1 with a lightened flywheel or something.

The OEM replacement EXEDY clutches are like $140ish shipped last I looked. The stage 1s do hold up to abuse a bit better. I think they were around $200 ish?

The hydraulic B series clutches are all the same (as long as we're talking B series from an Integra/Civic/CR-V and not a prelude B series).

Cap'N Chronic

Yessir. B16 transmission from an Si and a B18B1 motor from a 94+ teggy. Think I might just go with a OE clutch for now. Considering I plan on keeping the car stock for now and using it as my DD. Don't really feel like spending more than I need to on a clutch considering I'm on an extremely tight budget.

Cap'N Chronic

And as for the flywheel. Does it make that big of a difference with a lightened one? Because there is some kits that don't come with one for about 130, and ones that do come with one for about 240. Is it worth the money? Do they wear out over time?

Cap'N Chronic

If I go from a stock flywheel to a lightened one will it mess up the balancing on my crank?

And is there any harm that could come from just replacing the axle on one side?

98civdx

The car will rev faster/they will drop faster. I know a few people with rather light fly wheels with no issues. Other then basically have to learn the car again. My friend's B16 has 12lb ( I think) and I didn't really see any difference in how the car drove.

I would just send it and have it checked/resurfaced and keep the stock one, sense you say your on a tight budget.

The only bad thing I've read about the OE disk is people say it's a bit too soft for there liking. ( I have no personal experience with them, but I'd save up a few more penny's eat top ramen for lunch for a few day's and get the stage 1.

But you really can't go wrong either way.

instructor74

I would opt for a stage 1 exedy forget about the lightened flywheel esp if you are just DD the car. I like the slightly increased feel in the clutch pedal that a stage1 typically offers. Since you say you are on a very tight budget just get an oem stock replacement and resurface the flywheel.

TeamToxic

In front of your car there is a slave hydrolic thing that has a rubber sleeve on it. if you dont have that it's mostly likely cable.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure cheap flywheels *should* be good, but there are some issues that keep me from getting one:

1.) If its not certified, its probably not the safest thing. If the flywheel comes apart, it totals cars and can travel into the passenger compartment and rip you/passengers up.

2.) They're WAY too light. The cheap ones are like 8lbs. No refinement, really annoying to DD. Imo, even my EM1's 9.5lb chromoly flywheel is annoying for DD. Revs drop too fast between shifs. My ITR has the stock slightly lightened flywheel and it's 10X nicer to drive.

3.) I don't trust aluminum as a flywheel material for a daily. Usually cheap flywheels are either all aluminum or have and aluminum surface. This is because aluminum is so much easier to machine than chromoly. Aluminum is softer...so it will wear out or warp too quickly for a DD. For a race/track car, it might be more liveable.

4.) I have heard of crank bearings failing due to badly balanced cheap flywheels. It does happen, albeit not that often. Or it does happen often and it just takes more time or people don't attribute the issue to a flywheel. You get what you pay for, though.

A good street flywheel is the ACT streetlite. Around 13lbs. SFI certified. Machined from chromoly. Fully balanced. Expensive, though. Or a used stock ITR one that you can pick up for cheap and have resurfaced. I think the ITR one is only SLIGHTLY lighter than stock. But a shop around here had one for $40...so...CHEAP!! Machining around here is also $40 (to resurface).

It's too bad stock AP1 flywheels don't fit. OEM quality and 13lbs and they go for like $50-100 used.

94EG8

Exedy is Honda's OEM clutch supplier (they also supply pretty much all the other japanese vehicle manufacturers and some of the domestic automakers, in other words they know how to make clutches) So long as it's a hydro transmission they all take the same clutch. Stock Exedy replacement will last you a long time if you don't abuse it.

Billy Elliot

I would just pick up an Exedy OEM replacement B series clutch. If you're looking for a flywhell get the same from Exedy.

hmonguy918

heres the deal... for me i prefer competition clutch 6 puck stage 1,2, 0r 3, they kick ***..pulls hard and are street drivable.. all b series clutch fits.. just dont use the hydro on a cable..or a cable on a hydro.. exedy is also a good clutch too but if you are going to get a stage 1 or stage 2 (be sure to change out your mounts for racing mounts) or get engine mount inserts.. you will need it. trust me..i ripped out my driver side fram when i did my clutch swap with a racing one..i had to re-weld a brand new piece of metal to the frame and make my driver side mount a drag mount weld cost me 900 buck just to do one side frame from a shop i kno.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

An exedy stage 1 or 2 requires mount inserts? Erroneous. First off, those aren't strong enough to rip welds. IIRC, the stage 2 for a B series only holds like 300ish horsepower and around 250ish lbs of torque. That's not gonna rip welds. There was something wrong with your car previously. Even if the clutch could hold more power than that, the engine itself would have to produce a hell of a lot more power to rip out a weld. Even if the engine made that power, it and your foot would be to blame for ripping out the mount, not the clutch.

Also...who charges $900 to weld up a mount?!!! I can probably get a cage welded for less.