Hasport Engine Mount review thread - 88A Extreme Race (+ Jim Fab front torque mounts)
05-06-2005, 01:02 PM
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Hasport Engine Mount review thread - 88A Extreme Race (+ Jim Fab front torque mounts)
Before I purchased these, I have read a lot of threads on H-T to gain some knowledge on this rattling issues and whatnot. The reason why I bought these mounts over Energy Suspension inserts or DIY window welds were:
Solid piece
No need to worry about inserts or weld breaking out, or down time to wait for them to dry
Reputable business
The price can be costly, but as they all say - you gotta pay to play. Something that has a direct effect on the engine or the car itself, I would purchase new. Hence I didn't buy them used.
The installation was done by a good machinic. I was there the whole time, watching him step by step (but didn't take any photos). He did the rear mount first (cause it was the hardest to reach), then passenger side, driver side, passenger front troque mount and then driver side torque mount.
My car is a 6th gen hatch, stock D16Y7 engine with AC and PS. After the installation, he suggested a couple things:
1) Grind down the PS bottle bracket, just a little to clear the driver side mount
2) Install the front torque mounts first (that's if you are replacing these at the same time as well). But that's because I have AC and he had to loosen the driver side mount to move the engine a bit without taking the AC components apart.
The reason for replacing the mounts was maining to firm up the engine inside the engine bay and to firm up the gear shifting. Since I ordered EKSTK mounts, they will also work with B series so in case I want to swap, the mounts are there. I am going to build up the D16 for now so I want to do whatever I can to "reinforce" the current engine without actually modifying it.
What else is done to the car: Coilovers (F16K/R14K spring rates), front/rear strut bars, front/rear sway bars (26mm/22mm), ES front LCA bushings, ES front upper A arm bushings, ES rear trailing arm bushines, SRR rear LCA, A-spec race brace. Car handles decent and with the addition of the mounts, it feels solid. Not bad for a regular Civic.
The car sees the road everyday. DD and track. As to why I use 88A durometer urethane, I was actually going to buy 70A grade but somehow, 88A was shipped to me. But I wanted to install them so bad and I have been waiting so I figure, why not give these a try.
When you turn the engine on, you would hear the starter (am I correct?) making the usual sound but with the engine mounts installed, that sound turns into solid deep tone. Of course, everything rattles inside the cockpit. The dashboard, door panels, rear view mirror, steering wheel, clutch/brake/gas peddles, your seats, sunroof, key chain, I mean, everything. Even my watch rattles when I hold on to the steering wheel. You don't hear the engine rev when you put your foot on the throttle when parked (well you hear a little) but instead, with every step on the gas, you hear the loud rattling. But that's at ideling, and only when the engine is cold, like in the morning. After the engine is warmed up, the rattling will decrease a little, just a little.
At highway speed, say around 100km in 5th gear, it is not that bad. By "not that bad", I mean it is totally acceptable. But this is coming from a guy who daily drives a car that uses 16/14K spring rates. At this speed, you actually hear your exhaust.
Immediate improvements would be smooth shifting, easy engagement and better launch. I have grinded 2nd gear going from 1st because I shifted too fast (with short shift) while I was making a corner. I suspect that because the engine was moving. I have done some hard shifting and so far so good. Shifting back into 1st from 2nd gear, with a little tap on the throttle to rev match, it is rather easy. This helps a lot in bumper to bumper traffic because sometimes, the speed is too slow for 2nd gear and to shift into first, I was struggling once in a while. Now, no problem.
My overall impression - one happy customer. I have thrown "comfort" out of the window a while ago so I was getting ready for this modification. I wouldn't call myself hardcore just because I use 88A mounts on the street, but I enjoy driving the car and a good shifting is important to me. Maybe this can be done with 62A mounts or even just inserts, or window welds but I don't have the time and labour to test each and every option out there. This is what I have, and I am staying with it.
Hope this review has helps.
Solid piece
No need to worry about inserts or weld breaking out, or down time to wait for them to dry
Reputable business
The price can be costly, but as they all say - you gotta pay to play. Something that has a direct effect on the engine or the car itself, I would purchase new. Hence I didn't buy them used.
The installation was done by a good machinic. I was there the whole time, watching him step by step (but didn't take any photos). He did the rear mount first (cause it was the hardest to reach), then passenger side, driver side, passenger front troque mount and then driver side torque mount.
My car is a 6th gen hatch, stock D16Y7 engine with AC and PS. After the installation, he suggested a couple things:
1) Grind down the PS bottle bracket, just a little to clear the driver side mount
2) Install the front torque mounts first (that's if you are replacing these at the same time as well). But that's because I have AC and he had to loosen the driver side mount to move the engine a bit without taking the AC components apart.
The reason for replacing the mounts was maining to firm up the engine inside the engine bay and to firm up the gear shifting. Since I ordered EKSTK mounts, they will also work with B series so in case I want to swap, the mounts are there. I am going to build up the D16 for now so I want to do whatever I can to "reinforce" the current engine without actually modifying it.
What else is done to the car: Coilovers (F16K/R14K spring rates), front/rear strut bars, front/rear sway bars (26mm/22mm), ES front LCA bushings, ES front upper A arm bushings, ES rear trailing arm bushines, SRR rear LCA, A-spec race brace. Car handles decent and with the addition of the mounts, it feels solid. Not bad for a regular Civic.
The car sees the road everyday. DD and track. As to why I use 88A durometer urethane, I was actually going to buy 70A grade but somehow, 88A was shipped to me. But I wanted to install them so bad and I have been waiting so I figure, why not give these a try.
When you turn the engine on, you would hear the starter (am I correct?) making the usual sound but with the engine mounts installed, that sound turns into solid deep tone. Of course, everything rattles inside the cockpit. The dashboard, door panels, rear view mirror, steering wheel, clutch/brake/gas peddles, your seats, sunroof, key chain, I mean, everything. Even my watch rattles when I hold on to the steering wheel. You don't hear the engine rev when you put your foot on the throttle when parked (well you hear a little) but instead, with every step on the gas, you hear the loud rattling. But that's at ideling, and only when the engine is cold, like in the morning. After the engine is warmed up, the rattling will decrease a little, just a little.
At highway speed, say around 100km in 5th gear, it is not that bad. By "not that bad", I mean it is totally acceptable. But this is coming from a guy who daily drives a car that uses 16/14K spring rates. At this speed, you actually hear your exhaust.
Immediate improvements would be smooth shifting, easy engagement and better launch. I have grinded 2nd gear going from 1st because I shifted too fast (with short shift) while I was making a corner. I suspect that because the engine was moving. I have done some hard shifting and so far so good. Shifting back into 1st from 2nd gear, with a little tap on the throttle to rev match, it is rather easy. This helps a lot in bumper to bumper traffic because sometimes, the speed is too slow for 2nd gear and to shift into first, I was struggling once in a while. Now, no problem.
My overall impression - one happy customer. I have thrown "comfort" out of the window a while ago so I was getting ready for this modification. I wouldn't call myself hardcore just because I use 88A mounts on the street, but I enjoy driving the car and a good shifting is important to me. Maybe this can be done with 62A mounts or even just inserts, or window welds but I don't have the time and labour to test each and every option out there. This is what I have, and I am staying with it.
Hope this review has helps.
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