Civiclx

Ive decided to replace the front axles on my 94 ferioish civic, i cant stand the dang clicking anymore, Lol. has anyone ever done it? I need tips to speed up the process. Thanks guys i can always count on you.

B18C5-EH2

I work at a shop and I've probably replaced countless axles.

I typed this a while ago, so it includes B-Series axles info too, but I also tell exactly how to do SOHC axles too:

*Begin paste*

Here's how to pull the axles:
Tools you'll need if doing a Civic or Integra:
19mm for the wheel
32mm big-*** socket and BIG rachet for it - to break off and tighten back up the axle nut
17mm wrench
17mm wrench again or rachet
Dykes
Hammer
Prybar
TRY to get the entire front of the vehicle off the ground so you can turn the wheels to make things easier.

1. Take the wheel off with the 19mm
2. Take the 32mm nut off the end of the axle
3. Take the dykes and pull the cotter pin out of the bottom 17mm castle nut on the lower balljoint
4. Take the 17mm and remove the castlenut from the lower balljoint
5. Take your big-*** hammer and whack right ON the lower control arm where the balljoint sits - this method for buting the balljoint out will not tear the balljoint boot like the "balljoint wedge" will
6. Take both 17mm and remove the thru-bolt that runs through the lower fork of the front stut - this will allow the axle to slide out when ready by pulling the strut fork to the side of the lower control arm
7. Pull the brake rotor out of the way - axle is ready to come out
8. Take the prybar and pry the axle by prying between the inner joint and the tranny housing

**CAUTION**

If it's a manual tranny you NEED to drain it if you're doing the PASSENGER side on a car with equal-length driveshafts - if it's a B-series this applies. Unequal length shafts will require yopu to ALWAYS drain the tranny.

Reassamble it how you disassembled it. Only then you need to stake the axle nut down by putting a dent in it and do'nt forget to replace the cotter pin in the lower balljoint castlenut!

*end paste*

That's about it really. For a SOHC tranny you can use 10W30 motor oil for tranny oil - it's what most dealers use in the SOHC trannies anyways.

Here's an easy way to fill the tranny back up:

1. Tighten up the drain plug.

2. Pull off the rubber vent tube car for ventilation. Found on the topside of your tranny.

3. Loosen and pull out the big-*** fill plug and KEEP the washer - you'll need the washer. Should be a17mm or even a 19mm (can't remember).

4. Pull out the speed sensor by taking an extension and 10mm driver and remove the 10mm nut that holds the speed sensor in. Remove the speed sensor and fill through the speed sensor hole until fluid dribbles out of the fill hole on the side of the tranny.

5. Replace the fill hole bolt and tighten.

6. Replace the speed sensor

I have found this WAY easier than trying to rig up a tube to get the fluid back in the fill hole. This way more fluid goes into the tranny and not on your garage floor or driveway!

Have fun!

3.

jdmillusion

clicking noises? (busted bearings) you're in badly need of new axles. it's a pain taking them off. take the half shaft on the wheel area(ie. hub) first. it's a pain putting them back in and aligned. if you've done a few axle changes help this guy out. you will also need to replace cv boots. it's recommended to use race axles if you're really putting them under pressure all the time. if not, get to your local junk yard and you'll find decent ones.

edit:
b18c5= why would you need to replace speed sensors? i've never heard of that before. although i always thought it's just a flush and fill method.


[Modified by jdmillusion, 10:38 AM 12/21/2002]

Civiclx

thanks guys, keep the tips coming, its a 94 lx automatic (yes i know, weak)

mantic6t9

I've had a few people tell me you didn't have to drain the tranny fluid when changing the axles on the drivers side of a d16. What gives?

lagger

if you only jack up one side of the car at a time, you don't need to drain the transmission fluid.

also on popping the ball joint, i like to put a breaker bar in between the lca and the wheel hub right where the ball joint is, and step on it. i've had this work on even when banging on the lca doesn't.

B18C5-EH2

Please re-read my post. I meant replace (as in put the old sensor back in it's place) the sensor after you're done filling the tranny with fluid in the speed sensor hole.

No you don't buy a new one.

mantic6t9

Ok so if i jack it up one side at a time i don't have to drain the tranny fluid. Sounds good to me.

Travis- Who will be changing his axles soon because of a ripped CV boot

B18C5-EH2

Well you all can take that risk if you want to, but to me draining and replacing the fluid with new fluid is worth saving the risks of having 2 quarts of tranny oil all over my driveway, garega floor, and/or myself.

mantic6t9

It's easyer to just replace the axle then to mess with the cv joints and packing in new grease.