Punker1234

Heya, im gettin rid of the amber kit cus of this lame *** ball joint issue. Ball joint slides out after being pressed it and yea just insane. anyway, how difficult is it to change the a-arms back to the stock? heard it was just a couple of bolts, so anyone have any advice or instructions for me? also, how bad would the camber be with stock a-arm and a 2 inch drop int he front. Thanks guys. -jeff

Otherguy

its easy, and if i was still in santa barbara i would do if for you for 20 bucks... if you call me i can tell you how to do it... its really easy

Punker1234

it's just 2 bolts in the engine bay and they drop out yea? i know how to get the ball join nut off and stuff thats knoweldge to me, but never actually took a arms out before

chads

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Otherguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its easy, and if i was still in santa barbara i would do if for you for 20 bucks... if you call me i can tell you how to do it... its really easy</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha your a car fix hooker.

but yea its not hard just take the wheel off and look at it, it should make sence.

neutron91

i would recommend you get a camber kit... ingalls makes a good one... had them on every honda ive owned and never had any problems

rukawa1one

its easy, the only trick is getting the ball joint out of the knuckle. U should get a big hammer and tap the knuckle near where the ball joint is and the vibration should pop the ball joint out. Oh and dont forget to unbolt that 17mm bolt first before u do this. Good luck

Status Sean

easy to change and if u do it rite your camber shouldnt be that bad !

Punker1234

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rukawa1one &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its easy, the only trick is getting the ball joint out of the knuckle. U should get a big hammer and tap the knuckle near where the ball joint is and the vibration should pop the ball joint out. Oh and dont forget to unbolt that 17mm bolt first before u do this. Good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>]

why would i need ot take the ball joint out. Thes ones on my camber kit now are fucked, thats why im gonna change to the stock A-arms, which already have them in them. and i don't care too much about camber, i gonna put osme hard *** tires on the front and im not using the cra for racing or swaps anymore, so performance isn't an issue. just want it to be my daily driver! and its been realllly lame the last month and 1/2. i was debating on blowing it up and collecting insurance haha

TouringAccord

When he said remove the balljoint he didn't mean from the UCA. He meant remove it from the knuckle. The tapered section that goes into the knuckle has to be removed. You remove the castle nut and then you can either take a hammer and hit the knuckle like he was saying which should free the tapered section the knuckle or you can use a balljoint seperator to free it but the seperator will damage the balljoint boot which shouldn't matter since your replacing the balljoints anyway.

TouringAccord

Maybe this will help.
Jack the front of the car up, support on jack stands and remove the front wheels.
To remove the UCA you need to remove the nuts (#16) located under the hood.
Then remove the cotter pin (#21) and then remove the castle nut (#18).
If your going to hit the knuckle with a hammer you might want to leave the castle nut on there loose so if you miss you don't damage the threads.
If your using a balljoint seperator wedge it between the knuckle and the UCA and hit it with a mini sledge until it pops free.
Then reinstall the stock one in reverse order.

Punker1234

haha idk call me noob if u will, but the a arms i was told when un bolt them they should just pull out? not true? I don't care about the threads on my 2 old ball joints on the camber kit, i have 2 other ball joints on the stock a-arms that are already in it. Maybe im just a retard, never worked on suspension before!

TouringAccord

haha, it's cool. Gotta learn somewhere right.

After you remove the two nuts from under the hood area the UCA should just come away from the body. But you still have to removed the tapered section of the balljoint from the knuckle. What happens is, when you tighten down the castle nut on the balljoint it pulls the tapered section into the knuckle. The tapered section basically gets pressed into the knuckle from you tightening the castle nut. So it does take a little more than just loosening the castle nut, you actually have to release the taper from the knuckle. I hope that made sence.

Punker1234

doesn't make sens,e but when i remove those 2 bolts thta hold the arm in, it's gonna instantly click in haha. I've only looked at them for maybe 5 minutes just to peek around, but then i start doing it i know it's gonna make sense yay, gotta do these badboys, tranny and axles tonight haha. and can't start till 6 PM!

TouringAccord

yeah, once you remove the two nuts and pull the UCA front the body you'll see what you have to do. It'll be like the light just turned on and now you can see, then you'll wonder why you couldn't understand it before this point. I've done that a couple times as I'm sure others have to.

You might want to put the UCA bolts back into the body, once you see what you need to do, to help hold the UCA as you release the taper from the knuckle. But I'm sure you'll figure it out as you go. Good luck.