310HPS2k

Ok long story short, my H22a4 was built N/A with high compression pistons, the whole package. One day it just detonated on the road, and the pistons were fried, and scoured up the inside of the cylinder walls. The rod bearings were paper thin and all fried up.

This caused for a rebuilt, i dropped the compression and build for turbo. and 4k miles later it happened again. Opened up the motor and find the damage to the rod bearings again.

Pro Import says its oil shortage to the 4th rod bearing..... chamber? Says that it could be a bad block, but they couldn't find out what is wrong, 2 machine shop has looked at and cant solve that problem.

Anyone else here has this problem?

Now i have to choose, should I put in another set of bearings, and chances are it MIGHT happen again. or get a new block altogether..... VERY TIGHT on money now after 2 rebuilt in the last 8 months.....

Any input would be appreciated.

PS. Tony if you run into this please give them a better description than I did.


Thanks MIKE

sikciv666

bro try over here..

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1513981

gold_ef

or try the prelude forum where almost everyone has h22's

310HPS2k

thanks doin so now...

NJcoupe

Do you have an OIL pressure gauge? Have you replaced the oil pump or at least checked it's clearances with specs? are you running the balancer belts?

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 310HPS2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks doin so now...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Journal, not chamber And if there's a problem with oil pressure in a certain area of the crank, you probably need to replace the crank altogether to insure that it doesn't happen again. Odds are there's a small blockage in one of the passages and it's starving you at the fourth rod journal. Let us know how it turns out.

proimport

Let me step in to help Mike out. I am the one that built the second motor for him. When we got the car the first time the motor was grenaded. After we pulled it apart and checked all of the damage you could tell that #4 was starved for oil but it had so many other issues from the first rebuild it was crazy. The sleeves were installed wrong, the balance shaft bearings were beat in with a hammer, 12.5 to 1 pistons installed with no knock sensor and he was told to "just run pump gas". I could go on and on. But anyway i rebuilt the engine and both i and the machine shop noticed the problem with #4 but couldnt find any reason for it. The crank was checked and polished and the oil passages were checked. The block was hot tanked so that there would be no debris in it afterwards. All oil galleys were checked and were good. I even went over to the machine shop after work one night and checked the block with him when he said he couldnt find any problems. I use this machine shop because he mostly builds racing engines and he is meticulous about his work. We disassembled the oil pump and checked it. After assembly the engine started right up and ran great for about 2 1/2 months with no noise or smoke and then Mike said he was downshifting for an on ramp and it started making noise so he shut it off. When i disassembled the bottom end the #4 rod bearing is hammered out again. The pistons, cylinders and main bearings still look good but the rod bearing is shot. I usually do sr20's with a few LS vtec's thrown in for good measure so H22A's are still new to me but as i told Mike i think at this point as many problems as he had had with this motor i would be looking for another block. I hate going behind someone else's work because you never know what was done, I mean like the rod caps were not even marked so how do i even know if they were put back in the right place. Of course i have them marked now but i can only put them back where they came from. Mike just wanted me to post the info so he can get some feedback. Thanks in advance for listening.

gold_ef

definately go with a new block/crank

310HPS2k

New block would mean more machine work = More money.... what could be wrong with this block? they have checked everything.... what does mean when you say a block is bad when no problem can be found?

what IS a bad block?

gold_ef

a bad block could mean one that keeps ******* up your **** and making you keep rebuilding it.


would you say its cheaper to do machine work one more time, or to keep rebuilding this same block?

dthug

wrong forum go to that prelude thingy forum or hybridmajigy

310HPS2k

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gold_ef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a bad block could mean one that keeps ******* up your **** and making you keep rebuilding it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How does one become a bad block? does it just happen? and why can we find the source of this problem?

gold_ef

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 310HPS2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How does one become a bad block? does it just happen? and why can we find the source of this problem? </TD></TR></TABLE>


your mechanic said he checked it out and had it hot tanked and all that good ****...if that didnt clear it out it could have collapsed or something...i dont know whats going on with your specific block though.

randbcustoms

doesn't sound like a block problem.. probably a rod problem.. as he stated the previous engine builder .. or whatever you want to call him.. never marked the caps.. were the rods checked on the big end? if they were and they check out good.. before spending so much more money why not put 4 on another cylinder and see if it again turns up 4.. or if it follows the rod.. but first i would check the big end and magnaflux the rod