fabe85

Ok i have a stock h22, with balancer shaft removed and 3" exhaust.
I've cleaned IACV, TB, FITV, adjusted replaced and adjusted TPS to .45v idle and tried 3 different o2 sensors.

running stock p13 in a 93 eg dx hatch.

car starts and idles at 2k, then drops to 1k.

when i accelerate it bogs and sputters at around 3.5k-4k
and then really gets worse after 4k.

as its coming back down at idle, when at stop light, the car dies, the only way to keep it from dying is to keep a lil throttle and let it idle at 1k.

funny thing is car drives and idles better with my dizzy fully advanced, if i play with it any other way, then it just acts worst.

I also keep getting a code 41, for primary O2 sensor.
My harness had no male plug for an o2, so i manually ran the wires to the ecu.
I bought some 20 gauge wire and extended the o2 plugs to the ecu.

I know that they are susposed to be shield wire, but i can't find that shyt round here.
How should i go about extending those wires and getting rid of the code.

only thing i could think of is to get a bunch of old o2 sensors and cut off there wire and make a really long shielded wire and use it just for the signal wire... my idea any good???

also i know I susposed to have h22 injectors, but for the mean time its running some obd1 SOHC accord vtec injectors... would this really cause all of this??

thanks guys and help will be appreciated.

LesS is more

Im having the same exact problem on my b16. It just started recently and at first it would start to stutter on vtec at around 7k rpm and lose power there, and sometimes at random will turn off at the lights and not want to turn on, i have the same O2 sensor code on and everything. I really wonder if it is the O2 sensor since i am running OBD2 . i have this b16 stock injectors and everything is stock cept the intake, but i dont get why its happening and likewise would like help because it is driving me insane.

fabe85

I hear you. I been tryin to diagnose this for a week. I will go to junk yard and pull some more 02's with harness and re run the wire to different sources. except the d14-signal wire.

I will use honda oem shielded O2 wire for that connection.
the rest i'll use 20 gague wire.

I'll let you know if that sovles anything.

other than that, does anybody else have any input to help us out?
thanks

Padawan

If all you need is the shielded wire, you can order some here: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/...e.php

Also be sure to solder and shrink-tube all connections.

fabe85

hey guys
I measured the ohms resistance of these 3 o2's i got.
well the readings i got were
14.5
14.4
14.3

these are readings with the o2's not in the car.
but of the 1 in the car, when i check ohms resistance of the 2 black wires i manually ran to the ecu, i get no readings. hmmm.....
are the other 3 o2's i got, in working order. could i just use those and splice those black wires sowhere in the engine bay, besides str8 2 the ecu?

LesS is more

i just changed the o2 sensor to the plug and play one and reset the ecu and so far its running like a champ . i think my car would turn off cuz the old o2 sensor wire would contact and make sparks so the surge would turn the car off but im not completely sure about that yet.

LesS is more

scratch that still sputters

LesS is more

bump

fabe85

problem solved!!

i just fixed it yesturday.
here is what i did .
I replaced cap and rotor, and i also forgot the ground wire from vavle cover to car body ground. ALso it was running on 3 cylinders as 1 injector wasn't firing. so i replaced that.. after i did that, she pulled harder than ever. GOSH I love my hatchy even more.
no more sputtering or dying

LesS is more

I will check up on those things on my car.. congrats on fixing it