hondaracing

i was wondering what engine would be better and is the gsr worth the xtra grand if u think it is why do u think it is?

Sucka Free

there gonna jump on u for this post, "try the search" etc...
personally i dont like the b16, i prefer the b18c1. its definitely worth the extra grand. the output on the b16, from what ive witnessed doesnt par up to the gsr.
the torque, altho not really well defined in either, the gsr has the advantage.
ur goin to be spending the same amount of money on the si to get it faster so, why not get the faster motor in the first place.

forced induction is a diff story....im just talkin about n/a.

dirtySOHC's

both motors are very good platforms. esp. in a hatch........all depends on wat you wanna spend. you can get the b16 and have money left over for mods or just begin the the b18 and be satisfied

hondaracing

u know what times i would be looking at with each one in a VX hatchback both stock?

C4wrx

high 14's with b16, low 14's with gsr

Charles B.

get the gsr. i have it in my hb and i like it. i also drove my friends b16 hatch when he had it and i like mine a lot better. i also drove a b16 crx and i still like mine better.

hondaracing

tanx guys this is what i wanted to know, i think im going for the gsr. If i was to get it though what would i need to swap it?

B18C5-EH2

I stole this from myself:

Okay, so since i've had the "big 3" which are thew normal VTEC swaps for the 1992-1995 Civic, I'll give you my rundown.
I had a 1992 Civic Si hatch, and my fiancee' has one as well. Cars are identical in terms of mods and features - same intake, exhaust, no A/C, same wheels/tires, IDENTICAL. AEM CAI, Tanabe Racing medallion, DC header on her car, same on mine minus the Dc header.

Only difference is which motor is in each car.

She has a 1999 B16A2 in hers - from a 1999 Civic Si coupe.

First I had a 1995 B18C1 from a 1995 Integra GS-R. That motor had i/h/e, but not a cold air AEM - just short ram.

Running the cars side by side on the street and dropping, the B18C1 would pull on the B16A2 every time. From a dead stop the B18C1 would pull a good car length maybe even 1.5 cars on the B16A2 by the time we were topping 3rd gear.

While I'll say the B16A2 pulls great, it did not pull as good as the B18C1. The B18C1 had much more midrange power, and the low-end killed the B16A2 as well. Daily driving in the B18C1 was easier because you didn't HAVE to rev it to 8000rpm just to hit a strong powerband to pass a car - B16A2 you did.

Dyno results?

The B16A2 baselined at 143whp, 102ft/lbs. torque.

The B18C1 pulled 150whp (kind of low for B18C1 ) and 123ft/lbs. of torque.

If you don't think the 21 more ft/lbs. of torque made a big difference, then I'm here to say that it does.

At the track my B18C1 ran a 14.6 on ****-*** 16'' Falken Ziex tires on heavy-*** 16'' wheels. I'm thinking 14.5 or 14.4 would have been it's best had I had better tires and lighter wheels.

Never ran her car yet, but it fells like a good 14.8-14.9 car.

Keep in mind that these are full interior Si hatches, both weighing in at 2289lbs. or so with swaps.

So, I sold the B18C1 GS-R swap and got a 1998 B18C5 swap from a 1998 Integra Type R, USDM.

The difference between the B18C5 and the B18C1 and B16A2 is night and day.

While the B18C1 still had the best mid and lowend power, the B18C5 surges forward at 6300 or so and pulls HARD. How hard?

175whp and 122ft/lbs. of torque. this was just AEM CAI for 99 Si, Tanabe Racing Medallion Exhaust and re-chipped "kenji-spec" P28 ECU.

It was good for a 13.9@100.97mph in full interior 2289.lbs Si hatchback. This was my first time at the strip with that set-up too, so I could have done better I'm sure.

So there you have it - same cars, different motors. Different results too

Sorry if it's a little off-topic, but I took it from another thread.

EL Vap133

I'd also go with the GSR unless $$ is an issue.

broke1

torque! get the b18c. it's going to cost you more right now but in long run you'll be much happier.

wantmorepower

Have you thought about a b20?

Iceycrx

down in fl a guy had a 92-94 hb cant remember which but had a gsr w/stock exhaust and ran a 13.9, pretty damn impressive, i think he had the rear seats removed at the time, no special tires or anything u wouldnt see him driving on the road with.

Hondahatch4eva

dirtySOHC i like your quote.

cj7420

what about the difference between the b16 b18 b20 as far as stroke. Doesn't that effect the responsiveness and rev limits? A stock crv red line is low

X2BOARD

what I would do in this case is invest in an LS motor (b18b1). They are quite inexpensive and easy to come by. A few hundred dollars more and you buy yourself a complete b16a cylinder head. get some b16a pistons, arp headstuds and rod bolts(rod bolts are a must or you'll start spinning rod bearings). For pretty cheap you get a pretty nasty motor combo. LS/VTEC = "THE POOR MAN'S TYPE R MOTOR"

B18C5-EH2

If you think you can do an LS/VTEC for cheap, then you really do not need to even start one. To do an LS/VTEC properly you will probably spend as much if not more than the average GS-R swap, right?

Any time you have someone build your motor, you will always have to wonder if everything was done right - when it's from Honda, you know everything is right.

Take your chances with a bargain build-up LS/VTEC if you'd like, but I'd prefer to have a fully reliable motor that can put down good power too.

B18C5-EH2

Noitce the 5 other topics about this same subject that are right below this one?