GSR to EJ6 swap help
#1
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GSR to EJ6 swap help
Ok so my friend is offering me his GSR from a DC2 for 1500 and it includes all of the stuff from his DC2 (axle, tranny, wire harness, etc.). What would I need to get this into my 96 EJ6 sedan? I would like product links with price if possible. Thanks in advance.
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: GSR to EJ6 swap help
if hes giving you everything, including the ecu, just mounts and shift linkage would be needed. I would just do it and do it right the first time and buy a set of avid or hasport mounts from b swap into the ek chassis. they look great and outperform stock mounts in every way, except idle vibrations.
#3
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Re: GSR to EJ6 swap help
I was getting those anyways because the motor has 80,000 on it so some things are worn. Mounts was the one thing I knew I was going to have to change.
#4
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Re: GSR to EJ6 swap help
I just swapped a GSR into my EJ8. It's really straight forward if you know what you are doing... LOL If you have the money, I would seriously buy new mounts or replace the bushings. Also depending on what year the DC2 is, I believe for Integras it was 92-95 OBD1, then 96-99 OBD2a, then OBD2b. Since you have a 96, it's OBD2a and your stock harness will fit. Since you'll be taking out the motor, I would change the belts, water pump, and degrease engine on the outside. It makes it easier to find oil leaks or what not later on.
Parts you will need:
-Rear "T" bracket from 99-00 Si (P/N 50827-S04-N10) I think it's S04 or 504, can't read the dude's handwriting on my receipt.
-Driver side timing block mount from 99-00 Si (P/N 11910-P30-000)
-OBD2a P72 GSR ECU or Conversion Harness to run OBD1/OBD2b
-B Series Axles w/ ABS rings (If you have ABS, but ABS axles work on non ABS)
-For A/C -----> Delsol Vtec P30 bracket or 97-2001 CR-V P54 bracket.
-B-series shift linkage
Tools I've used to get it done:
-32mm socket (Axle nuts)
-Impact gun for axle nut (Took me a 6ft pipe for breaker bar to do it by hand and a couple tries)
-Rubber Mallet
-8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets & wrenches.
-Jack stands
-2 ton or 3 ton car jack
-Ball joint tool.
That's all I can think of atm.
Then step by step instructions to save you time.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b18cswap/swap.php
I wish I found this link earlier, but I had fun tinkering with stuff and luckily managed to put it all back together. No extra bolts!
Parts you will need:
-Rear "T" bracket from 99-00 Si (P/N 50827-S04-N10) I think it's S04 or 504, can't read the dude's handwriting on my receipt.
-Driver side timing block mount from 99-00 Si (P/N 11910-P30-000)
-OBD2a P72 GSR ECU or Conversion Harness to run OBD1/OBD2b
-B Series Axles w/ ABS rings (If you have ABS, but ABS axles work on non ABS)
-For A/C -----> Delsol Vtec P30 bracket or 97-2001 CR-V P54 bracket.
-B-series shift linkage
Tools I've used to get it done:
-32mm socket (Axle nuts)
-Impact gun for axle nut (Took me a 6ft pipe for breaker bar to do it by hand and a couple tries)
-Rubber Mallet
-8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets & wrenches.
-Jack stands
-2 ton or 3 ton car jack
-Ball joint tool.
That's all I can think of atm.
Then step by step instructions to save you time.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b18cswap/swap.php
I wish I found this link earlier, but I had fun tinkering with stuff and luckily managed to put it all back together. No extra bolts!
Last edited by D3vin; 04-18-2010 at 09:50 PM.
#6
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Re: GSR to EJ6 swap help
T-Bracket was around $70-$90.
Driver Side Block mount was around $130-$150
I would try junkyard first, but it's hard to find Si with their motor still intact.
Also, I forgot to say why change the timing belt is because when you change the block mount you have to take off the timing belt cover anyways, and you can change it yourself. For the experience and labor, you can't go wrong with that.
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#11
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Re: GSR to EJ6 swap help
I'm running a OBD2a P72 ecu (96-99 GSR) atm, no need for conversion harnesses at all.
#12
318 Curves, 11 miles
Re: GSR to EJ6 swap help
You'll need to add wires for IAB. It's pin A26 on the OBD2a P72.
I *believe* that on OBD2a, the positive wire runs to the ECU and the negative runs to ground. It's completely different on OBD2b: the positive runs to +12v source, and the negative runs to the ECU.
You shouldn't have to swap fuel pump pins on OBD2a. You do on 2b.
You *may* have to completely cut your distributor plug off and splice on an Integra plug. I had to on my 2000, but that's OBD2b. I don't think you have to on OBD2a, but look at them to see if they match up.
See this diagram:
I *believe* that on OBD2a, the positive wire runs to the ECU and the negative runs to ground. It's completely different on OBD2b: the positive runs to +12v source, and the negative runs to the ECU.
You shouldn't have to swap fuel pump pins on OBD2a. You do on 2b.
You *may* have to completely cut your distributor plug off and splice on an Integra plug. I had to on my 2000, but that's OBD2b. I don't think you have to on OBD2a, but look at them to see if they match up.
See this diagram:
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