eg_21

ok my eg was running fine until i swap the trans, long story short my starter went out after trans swap, and after that my radiator hose popped behind the manifold spilled anti freeze all over behind the intake manifold now i got a short that make any metal part on the engine have power, i ground my test light on the battery and when i touch the intake manifold or any other metal part its got power, so there's a wire toching the ground of my car, also when i tried to turn it on the dash will be dim and once i click to turn on the lights will bright up as long as a hold it to the start position. any ideas of what the problem is? I checked wire under the dash, fuse box, radio, engine bay and couldn't see anything, my throttle insulation get real hot when my switch is on, so its gotta be a hot wire touching the ground or maybe a bad ignition switch like i said i need help.

eg_21

also the fuse for the fan relay, heater controls and heater blower keeps on popping as soon as i turn on the car it pops.

pata

iTrader: (2)

you're lucky you have fuses if not, kiss your baby good bye.

Starter + wire on properly? You have a + wire on to the ground some where.

Former User

What specific fuse numbers are blowing?

eg_21

12, maybe the 13 in the draw its a 7.5 it say RR DEF RLY, Heater Motor RLY and Cooling fan motor relay.

Former User

Yeah, that's fuse 13.

Does removal of all five of the indicated relays prevent the fuse from blowing?

eg_21

well idk where the defogger relay is, but i will check on the others and find that defogger relay.

Former User

eg_21

they're all on the engine bay fuse box right? I suppose the cooling fan relay is the same as the radiator fan relay.

going to pull one by one and see what happens, so what about if after i pull one of them it doesn't blow the fuse no more?

Former User

If you have A/C, then those two relays are near the PS pump area.

You may be able to save fuses by pulling all five relays first. If this doesn't prevent the fuse from blowing, then you'd refocus on other components of the fuse 13 circuit.

When disconnecting some component in the circuit prevents fuse 13 from blowing, then you have pinpointed where to look for the short.

eg_21

alright thanks, will pull those 5 out, i don't have ac so it will be 4.

[EG_NASTY]

bump

eg_21

won't have time till sunday to work on it, will see what the outcome is and if i could solve the problem, my hatch is my dd so i need to get her going soon.

eg_21

ok so i took all 4 relays you told me to take out and the fuse still blows when i turn on the car, now i don't have a short anymore but fuse keeps blowing, any other suggestions?

Former User

There are two A/C relays (compressor clutch and condenser fan), so you could only pull three relays in the fuse 13 circuit, right?

If fuse 13 blows with all three relays removed, then you still have a short.

The next test is to unplug the recirculation control motor, mode control motor, and the heater control panel all at the same time to see whether this prevents fuse 13 from blowing.

eg_21

why is it only blowing when i crank the car? i could have the switch in the on position and everything is fine, my heater control works and fuse doesn't blow, but once i start the car boom it blows, i don't get it.

Former User

This is the first time mentioning this, right? Are you saying that fuse 13 only blows when the key is turned to ON(III)? Does this happen immediately or only after the engine is running for awhile? Is there anything else relevant that you have not yet mentioned?

And what are the answers to my questions in post #15?

eg_21

ok i now its weird but this short problem seems to go away by itself and come back, for now car has no short, fuse 13 was blowing as soon as the car would turn on, now it doesn't, all the relays for ac has been removed and harness for all the relays has been disconnected, now my only problem is that the car don't turn on, all fuses are good, it don't crank it just clicks, starter is good because i pulled it and got it tested at autozone and it passed, but it dives me crazy that yesterday had power on metal parts in the car like manifold and distributor, this morning i checked again with my test light and there was no power on metal parts, now tonight all of the sudden there was power on manifold and distributor with my test light clip on the negative pole of the battery and the test light tip on manifold or any other metal part, anyway i started pulling fuses to see if it was a short and it never turned off, then all of the sudden i took out the plug for the heater blower like you told me, and light went out but i plugged it back and light stood out so idk what's going on, i'm going to see what happens tomorrow, car has not been driven if there's no more shorts i'm going to change cap and rotor but its hard to change rotor since car won't crank it only turns on rolled. sorry for super long paragraph. I will take pics if necessary.

Former User

Start by check whether the battery charge is low.

eg_21

battery is good, it could be a ground right? maybe the trans ground its not making good contact. I'll check that as soon as i get a chance.