JDMlyfestyle

Ok ive been searching everywhere. google, HT, and other forums. and there isnt alot of direct info.
Please dont reply if u dont know anything about this conversion

When i get the dash i am going to gut the underside side of the dash
I will be using the dash mounts for the integra.

So my Questions are

1. Do I have to use the Teg blower and heater core? I mean is this a must?

2. My car is OBDI can i use the OBDII underdash harness? if i cant what Diagram can i use to use a ITR cluster. Ive seen a few different post and they did not match up

3. Do you have to cut the steering colum? some say yes and no. but i have a feeling that alot of people dont know

Is there any thing im missing.

splitime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok ive been searching everywhere. google, HT, and other forums. and there isnt alot of direct info.
Please dont reply if u dont know anything about this conversion

When i get the dash i am going to gut the underside side of the dash
I will be using the dash mounts for the integra.

So my Questions are

1. Do I have to use the Teg blower and heater core? I mean is this a must?

2. My car is OBDI can i use the OBDII underdash harness? if i cant what Diagram can i use to use a ITR cluster. Ive seen a few different post and they did not match up

3. Do you have to cut the steering colum? some say yes and no. but i have a feeling that alot of people dont know

Is there any thing im missing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't need the blower, but you'll at least need the top piece on the heater core. It routes the air into the dashes ducts. I swapped just the tops... so basically you need a heater core.. or rip the top of a teg one at the junkyard. Or you can do what some people have done... and just run dryer vent hose to the vents and to the dash locations... no clue how well this works though.

I used the obdII teg cluster harness. 2 plugs went right in, the 3rd plug was 2 holes too long. I trimmed that third plug so it would plug right in... and then it worked fine. Except you still need to tap for power, you'll find info on that in another thread. I have long forgotten which wires.

I hammered the crap outta my steering column support and cut most of the plastic out of that area on the dash. Worked for me fine. Hammer ALOT..... and watch the windshield.

JDMlyfestyle

so i need the core for the heat ducting so it reaches all the vents? or will the Civic one be fine.. cause i dont care if heat doesnt reach all the vents..

i drove a entire winter without heat..lol

splitime

I never actually lined it up with the teg dash. the vent guides were pretty different though. Its possible you'll run into dash fitment issues around that area without the teg one... or just a heated dash

JDMlyfestyle

ill just have to fab up some dyer hoses...

it sounds lame but alot of trucks... and ALL box trucks such as Ryder, snap on, Mac, Penske all use dryer hosing for there heat ducting..lol

0ptimus prime

I must say, you've made some of the best how-to's thus far. If you do get around to doing this, PLEAAAAAAASE make a detailed how-to on the best way to do this! Wiring, cutting, heater core, and all. That would be bad ***!

JDMlyfestyle

ahhh common mang you guys know what im gonna do when dont i make a write up. im about due for a new write up huh

civicsisi

you will need the top half of the heater vent. dont bother with the heating duct its very easy to switch.

AS fo wirrign use your curent wire harness and splice on the integra plug ends where needed, alot of the plugs are the same.
Everything will work except the rear defrost button. this is because the EG button has an internal relay and the teg rear defrost has an external one, you can go to an electronic store for these timed relays.

The steering colum does not have to be cut. if you take out the bar that goes over the steering column it will creat enough room for you to get the dash over it, you still may have to trim the plastic a little bit. IF you leave teh brace in, you have to trim alot of the underside of the dash and the teg cluster is a very tight fit.

Wiring for the cluster is pretty much the same as what is posted in the various writeups, but keep in mind that the 98 and up wiring is slightly diff, some pin locations have changed but they are mostly the same.

Good luck!




Modified by civicsisi at 4:13 AM 12/30/2004

JDMlyfestyle

thank you for that info... does any one have any pix of how they modified the underside of the dash

EK FLY

this is a ITR dash install dont know if its diferent than the gsr man it might help

follwo this link it show something
http://liam821.com/pix/?path=c...-3-01

civicsisi

when you place the dash in you will see what needs to be trimmed take it step by step its not too bad

JDMlyfestyle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racing_beat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is a ITR dash install dont know if its diferent than the gsr man it might help

follwo this link it show something
http://liam821.com/pix/?path=c...-3-01
</TD></TR></TABLE>

link doesnt help to much sicne there is no explanation on what he is doing.

civicsisi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you for that info... does any one have any pix of how they modified the underside of the dash</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://liam821.com/pix/?path=c...9.JPG

JDMlyfestyle

So Will the OBDII harness plug up to the defrost, and turn signal, wiper relay.
i heard something about u have to take live 12 v and put it to the hazard switch for the turn signals to work.

JDMlyfestyle

anyone confirm the post above? ^^^^^

splitime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So Will the OBDII harness plug up to the defrost, and turn signal, wiper relay.
i heard something about u have to take live 12 v and put it to the hazard switch for the turn signals to work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The power tap does relate to the hazards and turn signals working. I forget exactly what wires though, sry.

I kept the stock turn signal/wiper harness.

The rear defrost will not plug in AND work, it'll just leave the rear defrost on permanently. Read the above post where he mentions the reasons for this. I haven't done a timer relay on mine yet, i don't really use it... so i just pushed the plug back into the dash.

kndaqikEG

Ihave this conversion half way done. The rear defrost will just stay on all the time if you plug it in. The light on it will be very dim but it is working. Like he said you definitely have to switch the top of the heater box or cut the top off of yours and cover it which would just not allow heat to the center vents.
The turn signals do not work until you run a 12v to the yellow and black wire from the grey plug by the fuse panel. The blue on and green one plug in no problem. There is an odd color combo to make the speedo work I think it was a blue to orange when you switch over the grey plug end (by the fuse panel again) and I still have to reun a straight wire from the distributor to the dash harness to get the tach to work, and the check engine light comes on whenever it feels like it, but other than that its not too bad.
Like they said you do have to hammer (definitely be careful of the windshield and your rearview, which can also crack your windshield ) and youhave to trim the dash a bit. Once its all in I had to drill a new hole for the upper mounting bolt to go in, the sides have a 1in. gap around the door frame and the door panels have to be exstensively modified. Hope this helps and good luck.

0ptimus prime

bump any updates?

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

I ended up using the obd1 dash harness because all the wiring is the same (besides grey plug) and I didn't have to modify any of the plugs. Just swap the civic and integra grey fusebox plug and match the pinouts. You will have 2 wires leftover. The yel/blk will tap into the yellow wire in the middle of the green fusebox plug. This will make your turnsignals and hazards work. The other wire can just dangle.

As for the steering column support, I did not have to hammer it or anything. I used all CIVIC factory mount brackets and holes. Trimming the dash to fit the mounts and everything makes the dash fit alot nicer. Just cut out the back side of the dash where the cluster sits and keep testfitting the dash till everything is clear. The support bar that runs over the column also holds your steering column up with those two bolts. I didn't remove mine and everything fits perfect