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I thought you had fallen off the earth! Good to see you keeping at it. Lots of tediousness pulling that dash! Are you going to find a heater box with cabin air filter compatibility?
This car was easy, compared to my Silverado.
I did not know there was a filter option/DIY. Any links? Would like to check it out, I did think about it while I was in there.
Originally Posted by Josip.
Plan on installing some sound deadening at the firewall?
Nah. I took all that out. I like the noise in this car.
I have another daily driver that is quiet and has AC, so I can keep my sanity.
@deschlong I think can help you out with the retrofit. He can correct me, but I think all you need is the condenser portion of the box from a 97-2001 CRV.
I can't figure out what year the car is - more importantly, whether it's an R12 or R134a system. Both can have a cabin filter added but the process is a little different for each. Check my signature for a link to all my DIYs including the Cabin Filter Retrofit one.
I can't figure out what year the car is - more importantly, whether it's an R12 or R134a system. Both can have a cabin filter added but the process is a little different for each. Check my signature for a link to all my DIYs including the Cabin Filter Retrofit one.
I updated my comment to include your information on that at apparently the same time you commented. Lol
@deschlong I think can help you out with the retrofit. He can correct me, but I think all you need is the condenser portion of the box from a 97-2001 CRV.
Thanks. Will keep this in mind if I decide to add AC to the car.
Originally Posted by deschlong
I can't figure out what year the car is - more importantly, whether it's an R12 or R134a system. Both can have a cabin filter added but the process is a little different for each. Check my signature for a link to all my DIYs including the Cabin Filter Retrofit one.
So, after letting the car sit for a couple years, I decided to try and get a smog. Had to do maintenance, oil and filter change, oil pan gasket, check and change vacuum lines, drain and fill coolant, set timing. Went to DMV and gave them a paycheck (payed three registrations at the same time). Went to insurance and gave them another.
I go in for smog, not expecting to pass, and I don't. Tech wants a new cat, and says there's a leak before the O2 sensor.
Went home, ordered a cheap header with a $250 CARB sticker. Most expensive sticker I've ever bought. Get the header, install header, hate on header, then hate on the header some more. After more header hating, I took the car for a new cat. Dropped it off in the morning, picked it up in the afternoon and went straight to smog. Driving over, CEL pops on, plan ruined and went home. Read the code, VTEC, nothing to do with smog. Solenoid wire broke off, easy fix.
This is round three now, drive to smog, I'm told I have to go somewhere else. Car is a gross polluter cause it failed ONE time. Stupid. The tech got excited and wanted to see if it would pass, threw it on the rollers and he said it was all good now. Took it to the over priced smog god, not really caring cause it already passed that day. No surprise, I got my certificate.
Now I'm good for two years, time for a little fun. Couple of parts may have been ordered.
Time for another round of "upgrades". I've been collecting parts for a while now, researching and making a complete plan.
First step was to complete some work on the race head. The head really deserved a good valve job, and the guides replaced. Before I took it in I went ahead and gave the intake ports a burr finish to help keep fuel atomized and not collect on the smooth walls.
Fresh from the shop. Supertech flat faced valves, deshrouded and polished combustion chambers, 40cc high-compression.
Complete Supertech valvetrain. 85# springs, retainers, keepers, valves, valve guides, valve seals, and beehive LMAs.
I had some difficulties CCing the head before, spent time this round and got repeatable measurements. All measured at 40cc. Using the Zeal Autowerks online compression calculator, I'm looking at 12.2:1 if I bolt this to the built block, and 10.4:1 on my stock block.
Thinking about tuning a high compression engine as my first, might not be a great idea. Did I mention I'm going to learn and tune this myself? I figure I'll start with a lower compression build first, the stock engine will be perfect for me to learn. Then I can bolt on this race head and see how the airflow has changed through tuning. I think I should learn how to set fuel tables too, so I'll be setting up the ECU for E85 and flex fuel. Should be fun. More to come.
After a little research, I decided to run a S300. Being able to do most of what a stand alone can, at third the price. I wanted something that was simple, plugged into the factory wiring and was compatible with an ethanol sensor.
I had two ECU's that I could have installed this in, a virgin p72, and a modded p05. After more research I really wanted to install the Hondata into a virgin ECU, less to worry about, but I didn't want to use my p72 (I need it for smog). I found that I could use most any OBD1 ECU, that I could add VTEC and even do an auto-manual conversion if I needed. Pretty cool! I went to the pick and pull and took a look around. Every Civic and Integra ECU had been taken out, except one, a p75 from a manual Integra. Car was clean inside, and the engine was a runner so I hope the ECU is okay.
Found info about changing the capacitors as precautionary maintenance before they leak. Seemed like a good idea so I ordered the kit.
I hadn't done any soldering in a while, so I just jumped in head first. After a couple joints, it all came back to me. Started with the capacitors, then installed the S300. I have a 1980 VTEC kit on order, will be here next week.
And as I'm going to be self tuning, I needed to get a wideband kit. Thinking about what else I could possibly want while looking at kits, the Innovate ECF-1 checked off quite a few boxes.
-lambda based unit instead of stoich, no need to worry about e85 or gasoline wideband gauge
-Flex Fuel sensor included in this kit is more accurate than other popular sensors
-includes a fuel pressure sensor
-gauge will show fuel temps
-gauge displays all 4 readings simultaneously, lambda, e85%, fuel pressure and fuel temp
-logging with s300
And as I'm going to be self tuning, I needed to get a wideband kit. Thinking about what else I could possibly want while looking at kits, the Innovate ECF-1 checked off quite a few boxes.
-lambda based unit instead of stoich, no need to worry about e85 or gasoline wideband gauge
-Flex Fuel sensor included in this kit is more accurate than other popular sensors
-includes a fuel pressure sensor
-gauge will show fuel temps
-gauge displays all 4 readings simultaneously, lambda, e85%, fuel pressure and fuel temp
-logging with s300
This is going to be a learning experience.
You don't need a different type of gauge or sensor for different types of fuel. Regardless of whether you're running E10, E85, or E48.3, all wideband gauges will show the same. If you've got the gauge set up in lambda, stoich will display 1.0. If you've got the gauge set up for gasoline (regardless of what fuel you're running) stoich will display 14.7.
Enjoy - data collection and analysis with the S300 is fun.
Ya. You're right. Stoich is just a conversion from lambda.
It was more a vanity-decision for me, or me being pessimistic and indecisive. I'm not really sure. I didn't want to pick between an "e85" or a "gasoline" faceplate for the gauge.
Ya. You're right. Stoich is just a conversion from lambda.
It was more a vanity-decision for me, or me being pessimistic and indecisive. I'm not really sure. I didn't want to pick between an "e85" or a "gasoline" faceplate for the gauge.
I hear ya. Next time look at the PLX Devices wide band - you can change the display on the gauge between lambda and AFR. I understand combining gauges to reduce the number of gauges you need, though.
I hear ya. Next time look at the PLX Devices wide band - you can change the display on the gauge between lambda and AFR. I understand combining gauges to reduce the number of gauges you need, though.
This can display AFR as well. I can see the benefits of using an AFR scale when tuning, having a finer resolution (scale table). We'll see what works best for me.
Been looking into hooking this up to the S300 for ethanol reading, and I've seen that I don't need the resistor. Need to do more searching/research about this.
This can display AFR as well. I can see the benefits of using an AFR scale when tuning, having a finer resolution (scale table). We'll see what works best for me.
Been looking into hooking this up to the S300 for ethanol reading, and I've seen that I don't need the resistor. Need to do more searching/research about this.
I'm using the Innovate ethanol content gauge (MTX-D) with my S300. I would recommend running the digital signal from the sensor to the S300 via Analog 0 (thus requiring the resistor), instead of running the analog signal (brown wire from the gauge) to the ECU. This will free up one of your 0-5V ECU inputs which would otherwise need to be used for the analog signal from the gauge.
I too used lambda at first, but ended up going back to AFR...nearly everyone talks in AFR, and anytime you're troubleshooting it will prevent you from having to do math to figure out what someone means.
Here is how I have my flex fuel wired. I've got the wideband signal going into D10, boost control coming from A11. AN0 for flex fuel is the only analog input I have running straight to the S300. If you decide to use the analog signal into the ECU for flex fuel, there are only a handful of ECU inputs you can use and one of them is D10, which is the preferred input for wide band. In the future I may try to log oil pressure with another analog input.
Just joined the party and went through the entire thread. Hate to sound like an echo chamber but you're doing great job. Honda ECUs are something else, it's like they were made to be tampered with.
Took the car for a drive. ECU must be getting the correct readings from the o2 sensor. Car drives fine and no CEL. Guess I'll just go wire-in the wideband and go from there.
Installed different o2, get different code. lol. Think I was stocking a bad one on the shelf. Gotta get this wideband in.
Looking into making my own harness. Have to decide if I want coded wire or just black wire with labels, and how to crimp shielded cable, and what tools to buy, and how to make it last (MIL spec boots maybe?). Probably going with black so I don't have to store a bunch of left over (and expensive) wire.
Besides that, I've been working on an ECU cover, made from the screen protector off an old rear projection tv.
Like the brushed aluminum, I think I'm going to make this screen a thing. Would be cool to make a gauge cluster with the stuff, and show off the wiring behind it. Maybe a switch panel with the breakers behind it with a hinge system for access. Dunno, just thinking.
07-12-2019, 04:56 PM
Re: From the Ground Up. Build Thread.
