going from DOHC back to SOHC
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going from DOHC back to SOHC
Ok, i've got a b18c1 with some high miles on it. I have a chance to sell it for what it would cost me to go with a turbo'd y8 so i'm going to sell the c1 and go back to sohc. This is going into a 93 hatch. What all am i going to need to do this swap? I'm running a chipped p28 with the swap, so would i need an ECU or will this one work? What mounts do I need? I know I need axles, that's no problem. i have found them numerous places for about $50. Thanks for any help.
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Re: going from DOHC back to SOHC (JapTendencies)
correct me if im wrong, but if the sohc is an OBD1, you'll be fine running the p28. as for mounts, can't you just use stock ones?
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Re: going from DOHC back to SOHC (vsm98civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vsm98civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">correct me if im wrong, but if the sohc is an OBD1, you'll be fine running the p28. as for mounts, can't you just use stock ones?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, the sohc is obd1. And i figured i could use the stock mounts but not sure. Any other problems I may encounter?
yeah, the sohc is obd1. And i figured i could use the stock mounts but not sure. Any other problems I may encounter?
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Re: going from DOHC back to SOHC (JapTendencies)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JapTendencies »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeah, the sohc is obd1.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought Y8's were OBD2? Unless of course you convert it to OBD1. Correct me if I'm wrong please.
yeah, the sohc is obd1.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought Y8's were OBD2? Unless of course you convert it to OBD1. Correct me if I'm wrong please.
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Re: going from DOHC back to SOHC (TouringAccord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I thought Y8's were OBD2? Unless of course you convert it to OBD1. Correct me if I'm wrong please.</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct
I thought Y8's were OBD2? Unless of course you convert it to OBD1. Correct me if I'm wrong please.</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct
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the y8 is obdII. If you are currently running a b18c, then the only mounts to change are the Rear mount. and the drivers side from torque mount i believe. If the y8 comes with the ac attached, then this will be present. You will need SOHC axels and shift linkage. The ecu will work, it will setup for a gsr map i amagine, so you may need to re-chip it, or do a jumper so it ignores the rom and goes back to a p28 rom.
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Re: going from DOHC back to SOHC (vsm98civic)
u cant use the gsr mounts they are the same actually stronger with the turbo u might break the stokc mounts especially the drivers side so stock up on those.
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#9
Re: (pane93civhb)
Don't do it.
I can't see the point of going from a great engine to a crappy engine. I think if its absolutely necassary just rebuild the GSR. If you want a turbo so bad, just turbo the GSR when you have money, you'll be much happier in the long run.
But to each their own.
Like everyone said you need the linkage and mounts, I would get the ECU that goes with the engine (don't know the ECU code) also.
I can't see the point of going from a great engine to a crappy engine. I think if its absolutely necassary just rebuild the GSR. If you want a turbo so bad, just turbo the GSR when you have money, you'll be much happier in the long run.
But to each their own.
Like everyone said you need the linkage and mounts, I would get the ECU that goes with the engine (don't know the ECU code) also.
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Re: (92civicb18b1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civicb18b1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't do it.
I can't see the point of going from a great engine to a crappy engine. I think if its absolutely necassary just rebuild the GSR. If you want a turbo so bad, just turbo the GSR when you have money, you'll be much happier in the long run.
But to each their own.
Like everyone said you need the linkage and mounts, I would get the ECU that goes with the engine (don't know the ECU code) also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agreee..!!
I can't see the point of going from a great engine to a crappy engine. I think if its absolutely necassary just rebuild the GSR. If you want a turbo so bad, just turbo the GSR when you have money, you'll be much happier in the long run.
But to each their own.
Like everyone said you need the linkage and mounts, I would get the ECU that goes with the engine (don't know the ECU code) also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agreee..!!
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Re: (92civicb18b1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civicb18b1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't do it.
I can't see the point of going from a great engine to a crappy engine. I think if its absolutely necassary just rebuild the GSR. If you want a turbo so bad, just turbo the GSR when you have money, you'll be much happier in the long run.
But to each their own.
Like everyone said you need the linkage and mounts, I would get the ECU that goes with the engine (don't know the ECU code) also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I definitely know what i wanna do. All I want is a 13 second daily driver. I'm not going for 11's or anything. My motor has 200K on it, no point in turboing it, and if i were to rebuild it I'd spend a lot more than i want too. And there is nothing crappy about a turbod d series motor. It will spank NA B series motors unless they have some work done.
And about the y8, that is out of the picture now. I have a hook up on a d15b JDM vtec motor for relatively cheap. So as far as I know it is obd 1. The motor comes with the linkage, tranny, and everything else. Just no ecu. Thanks for all the replies.
I can't see the point of going from a great engine to a crappy engine. I think if its absolutely necassary just rebuild the GSR. If you want a turbo so bad, just turbo the GSR when you have money, you'll be much happier in the long run.
But to each their own.
Like everyone said you need the linkage and mounts, I would get the ECU that goes with the engine (don't know the ECU code) also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I definitely know what i wanna do. All I want is a 13 second daily driver. I'm not going for 11's or anything. My motor has 200K on it, no point in turboing it, and if i were to rebuild it I'd spend a lot more than i want too. And there is nothing crappy about a turbod d series motor. It will spank NA B series motors unless they have some work done.
And about the y8, that is out of the picture now. I have a hook up on a d15b JDM vtec motor for relatively cheap. So as far as I know it is obd 1. The motor comes with the linkage, tranny, and everything else. Just no ecu. Thanks for all the replies.
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Re: (JapTendencies)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JapTendencies »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And there is nothing crappy about a turbod d series motor. It will spank NA B series motors unless they have some work done.</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, eff 'em. Single cams are great fun, good luck.
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you will need mounts, linkage, axells, p28 ECU, rest should bolt up nicely. If the -28 is already chipped, i would suggest a different program, especially if you are going turbo.
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Re: (92civicb18b1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civicb18b1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't do it.
I can't see the point of going from a great engine to a crappy engine. I think if its absolutely necassary just rebuild the GSR. If you want a turbo so bad, just turbo the GSR when you have money, you'll be much happier in the long run.
But to each their own.
Like everyone said you need the linkage and mounts, I would get the ECU that goes with the engine (don't know the ECU code) also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's better off with the SOHC if he wants a 13 sec daily driver on a budget.
I can't see the point of going from a great engine to a crappy engine. I think if its absolutely necassary just rebuild the GSR. If you want a turbo so bad, just turbo the GSR when you have money, you'll be much happier in the long run.
But to each their own.
Like everyone said you need the linkage and mounts, I would get the ECU that goes with the engine (don't know the ECU code) also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's better off with the SOHC if he wants a 13 sec daily driver on a budget.
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Re: going from DOHC back to SOHC (99CivicExCoupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99CivicExCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much is it gonna cost to make a daily driven single cam 13 second honda?</TD></TR></TABLE>
well i have right now a single cam honda daily driven with a/c and full interior that is atleast in the 13's if not low 13's. i bought a jdm zc sohc vtec motor on ebay from a importer for $400 shipped (i think it was actually $380), i then got a used greddy kit for $600 shipped from the owner of turbod16.com that had a rebuilt turbo, got a broken y8 trans for $40 and took a 92-95 dx trans that i got for free and made it all work with the y8 gear sets and final ring gear, $50 for a blow off, #40 for the stuff needed to chip ecu and use a uberdata tuned chip, oh yeah...traded a charge pipe for a 1g dsm sidemount intercooler, $50 for dsm 450 injectors and i think that's it.
i race my 2 buddies that both have the same hatch like mine but have jdm typ-r motors and i get both of them by atleast 4 cars. the faster of the 2 last time at the track ran a 14.0x. now the other guy did some more work to his and beats him by a little. so i'd say that they are both high 13's and i beat them by a few cars so that should put me 13.5-13.7. match that agaist what they spent for their swaps (over $5k) and i think i'll take my sohc over any dual cam swap. oh yeah and ran my buddy the other day that has a hatch like mine as well and has a US gsr swap with the basic i/h/e. he had 2 people in his car andi had 4 people in mine and walked the **** outta him bad. not bad for a greddy kti @ 7psi. now i have it turned up to 9 psi and reaches 10 psi by redline and i'm goinf to go to the strip oct 9th and see what it runs. i'm hoping for mid 13's.
well i have right now a single cam honda daily driven with a/c and full interior that is atleast in the 13's if not low 13's. i bought a jdm zc sohc vtec motor on ebay from a importer for $400 shipped (i think it was actually $380), i then got a used greddy kit for $600 shipped from the owner of turbod16.com that had a rebuilt turbo, got a broken y8 trans for $40 and took a 92-95 dx trans that i got for free and made it all work with the y8 gear sets and final ring gear, $50 for a blow off, #40 for the stuff needed to chip ecu and use a uberdata tuned chip, oh yeah...traded a charge pipe for a 1g dsm sidemount intercooler, $50 for dsm 450 injectors and i think that's it.
i race my 2 buddies that both have the same hatch like mine but have jdm typ-r motors and i get both of them by atleast 4 cars. the faster of the 2 last time at the track ran a 14.0x. now the other guy did some more work to his and beats him by a little. so i'd say that they are both high 13's and i beat them by a few cars so that should put me 13.5-13.7. match that agaist what they spent for their swaps (over $5k) and i think i'll take my sohc over any dual cam swap. oh yeah and ran my buddy the other day that has a hatch like mine as well and has a US gsr swap with the basic i/h/e. he had 2 people in his car andi had 4 people in mine and walked the **** outta him bad. not bad for a greddy kti @ 7psi. now i have it turned up to 9 psi and reaches 10 psi by redline and i'm goinf to go to the strip oct 9th and see what it runs. i'm hoping for mid 13's.
#17
Re: (JapTendencies)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JapTendencies »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And there is nothing crappy about a turbod d series motor. It will spank NA B series motors unless they have some work done.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am starting to get sick and tired of these statements. Comparing a FI motor to a NA motor, is like comparing apples and oranges. And yes, a turbo d will probably beat a b series motor, but what if the b is turboed too? You can kiss your D goodbye.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am starting to get sick and tired of these statements. Comparing a FI motor to a NA motor, is like comparing apples and oranges. And yes, a turbo d will probably beat a b series motor, but what if the b is turboed too? You can kiss your D goodbye.
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Re: (turtlecx92)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turtlecx92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am starting to get sick and tired of these statements. Comparing a FI motor to a NA motor, is like comparing apples and oranges. And yes, a turbo d will probably beat a b series motor, but what if the b is turboed too? You can kiss your D goodbye.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thnk people are referring to the price on both setups. you can easily have a turbo d that'll whoop a b series for the amount it would cost to swap in a b, as mentioned two posts above
I thnk people are referring to the price on both setups. you can easily have a turbo d that'll whoop a b series for the amount it would cost to swap in a b, as mentioned two posts above
#19
Re: (vsm98civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vsm98civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I thnk people are referring to the price on both setups. you can easily have a turbo d that'll whoop a b series for the amount it would cost to swap in a b, as mentioned two posts above</TD></TR></TABLE>
My b swap costed 800$, my friends sohc costed 800$ as well....
I thnk people are referring to the price on both setups. you can easily have a turbo d that'll whoop a b series for the amount it would cost to swap in a b, as mentioned two posts above</TD></TR></TABLE>
My b swap costed 800$, my friends sohc costed 800$ as well....
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Re: (turtlecx92)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turtlecx92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My b swap costed 800$, my friends sohc costed 800$ as well....</TD></TR></TABLE>
so you got a good deal, and your friend got a bad deal...?
i could get a d-motor for $300 and build a turbo kit for $500....
my point is, is that it doesn't matter what good deals come around.. when it comes down to it, on average, d-series motors cost less than b-series (or else EVERYONE would have a b-series, seeing how they're capable of making more power); and that left over money you saved on a motor could be put into a turbo kit.
My b swap costed 800$, my friends sohc costed 800$ as well....</TD></TR></TABLE>
so you got a good deal, and your friend got a bad deal...?
i could get a d-motor for $300 and build a turbo kit for $500....
my point is, is that it doesn't matter what good deals come around.. when it comes down to it, on average, d-series motors cost less than b-series (or else EVERYONE would have a b-series, seeing how they're capable of making more power); and that left over money you saved on a motor could be put into a turbo kit.
#21
Re: (vsm98civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vsm98civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so you got a good deal, and your friend got a bad deal...?
i could get a d-motor for $300 and build a turbo kit for $500....</TD></TR></TABLE>
not necessarily, my friend got his from hmotors, i got mine from a crashed car, my engine worked without a hitch, his had a blown rear seal. its a chance game you play with all this engine swap crap.
so you got a good deal, and your friend got a bad deal...?
i could get a d-motor for $300 and build a turbo kit for $500....</TD></TR></TABLE>
not necessarily, my friend got his from hmotors, i got mine from a crashed car, my engine worked without a hitch, his had a blown rear seal. its a chance game you play with all this engine swap crap.
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Re: (turtlecx92)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turtlecx92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not necessarily, my friend got his from hmotors, i got mine from a crashed car, my engine worked without a hitch, his had a blown rear seal. its a chance game you play with all this engine swap crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sooo... your friend paid $800 for a d-series engine with a blown rear seal... that doesn't sound like a good deal to me...
I got my mini me for $350 and everything works perfectly.
sooo... your friend paid $800 for a d-series engine with a blown rear seal... that doesn't sound like a good deal to me...
I got my mini me for $350 and everything works perfectly.
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Re: (vsm98civic)
For ***** sake people, if you wanna ****** argue take it somewhere else.
I didnt start this thread looking for opinions. I'm trying to get information on what I need to do with this swap. I dont care if you think comparing a turbo motor to an NA motor is retarded. If you're sick of those comments the make a post about being sick of those comments but dont ***** up my thread.
Thanks to the people offering advice.
Eff off to those of you who are saying stupid stuff.
I didnt start this thread looking for opinions. I'm trying to get information on what I need to do with this swap. I dont care if you think comparing a turbo motor to an NA motor is retarded. If you're sick of those comments the make a post about being sick of those comments but dont ***** up my thread.
Thanks to the people offering advice.
Eff off to those of you who are saying stupid stuff.
#25
Re: (JapTendencies)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JapTendencies »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For ***** sake people, if you wanna ****** argue take it somewhere else.
I didnt start this thread looking for opinions. I'm trying to get information on what I need to do with this swap. I dont care if you think comparing a turbo motor to an NA motor is retarded. If you're sick of those comments the make a post about being sick of those comments but dont ***** up my thread.
Thanks to the people offering advice.
Eff off to those of you who are saying stupid stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well FINE fuckstick, if your gonna get a sohc vtec OBD1 engine, get the D16Z6, they are easy to find, cheap, and handle boost like a champ. As for a turbo, a T25 will spool fast and push enough boost for your engine, of course you could always go for something bigger such as a T3/T4OE, which is my future choice in turbo. Just remember that the sohc doesnt redline too high so you might want something that will spool by 2500-3000rpm. You will need new axles and shift linkage because b-series is different length(my LS was longer than my CX). You will also need your ECU to be chipped to run a SOHC engine and you will need it re-chipped with uberdata or hondata AT LEAST if you want to push enough boost to run 13's. Don't cut corners and use an FMU, just spend the money, get your car tuned right and your turbo D will last you for as long as you can beat on it.
I didnt start this thread looking for opinions. I'm trying to get information on what I need to do with this swap. I dont care if you think comparing a turbo motor to an NA motor is retarded. If you're sick of those comments the make a post about being sick of those comments but dont ***** up my thread.
Thanks to the people offering advice.
Eff off to those of you who are saying stupid stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well FINE fuckstick, if your gonna get a sohc vtec OBD1 engine, get the D16Z6, they are easy to find, cheap, and handle boost like a champ. As for a turbo, a T25 will spool fast and push enough boost for your engine, of course you could always go for something bigger such as a T3/T4OE, which is my future choice in turbo. Just remember that the sohc doesnt redline too high so you might want something that will spool by 2500-3000rpm. You will need new axles and shift linkage because b-series is different length(my LS was longer than my CX). You will also need your ECU to be chipped to run a SOHC engine and you will need it re-chipped with uberdata or hondata AT LEAST if you want to push enough boost to run 13's. Don't cut corners and use an FMU, just spend the money, get your car tuned right and your turbo D will last you for as long as you can beat on it.