Full shell respray/color change...
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Full shell respray/color change...
Hey guys, I just basically want to get any info/tips on doing this. I plan on doing this summer. Car is a 94 VX, I want to paint it inside/out and engine bay. I am thinking Aviator Grey from the Audi TT's.
Anyway for all who have done this, can you list what you removed, if you replaced it (these cars are old), and/or a breakdown of what you attacked first.
Tom - i expect you to kill this thread
Anyway for all who have done this, can you list what you removed, if you replaced it (these cars are old), and/or a breakdown of what you attacked first.
Tom - i expect you to kill this thread
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Re: Full shell respray/color change... (Emerica)
lol, word. Just looking for the full breakdown for those who have done it. I'll prolly buy the Civic helms for X-mas so I can learn to take out the dash/interior panels w/o breaking anything.
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Re: Full shell respray/color change... (navin)
pull everything off you think you can put back on or want to replace.
off the top of my head this is what I will pull when/if I spray the kaa
headlights , taillights , door handles , glass , moldings , wheels , complete interior including dash/headliner,door panels.
the list goes on and on though , I will end up pulling my drivetrain...I'm a perfectionist.
off the top of my head this is what I will pull when/if I spray the kaa
headlights , taillights , door handles , glass , moldings , wheels , complete interior including dash/headliner,door panels.
the list goes on and on though , I will end up pulling my drivetrain...I'm a perfectionist.
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Re: Full shell respray/color change... (Doctor CorteZ)
pull everything off you think you can put back on or want to replace.
off the top of my head this is what I will pull when/if I spray the kaa
headlights , taillights , door handles , glass , moldings , wheels , complete interior including dash/headliner,door panels.
the list goes on and on though , I will end up pulling my drivetrain...I'm a perfectionist.
off the top of my head this is what I will pull when/if I spray the kaa
headlights , taillights , door handles , glass , moldings , wheels , complete interior including dash/headliner,door panels.
the list goes on and on though , I will end up pulling my drivetrain...I'm a perfectionist.
about the drivetrain, would you remove the vacuum lines, etc. I'll be sure to document when i pull everything of my show kaa
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Re: Full shell respray/color change... (navin)
Its a monster pain in the *** but if you take the time to do it right it can come out pretty good. I did my last car (92 SI) and i'm getting ready to do the new project CX.
I recommend taking off the front and rear bumpers, remove all the lights, the mirrors, and the side skirts. If you want to do the engine bay you will need to remove the motor as well. You will NEVER achieve a good paint finish in there by just masking off the engine.
if your existing paint is in good condition you can use it as the base. Just block sand the whole car, fill in all the little dings that you never knew you had untill you really looked, wet sand it and clean the hell out of it. Now you are ready to paint.
I highly recommend the Dupont chroma base/clear system. Its very easy to use, gives excelent results and is forgiving of mistakes. put a coat of epoxy primer over any filler or bare metal before the base coat. For a re-color you will need at least three full coats of the base color. Expect about 5 to 6 quarts. You will also need at least that much clear (I recommend two full gallons, you really cant put too much clear on)
If you take the time to wet sand the base coat with 600 grit to get a really smooth finish before the clear coats the results will be amazing.
Be sure to work in a dust free and well ventilated area and wear a respirator! The clear coat in particular is ******* TOXIC and you DO NOT want to be breathing it. Trust me on this. I probably took several years off my life the first time I did this.
let the clear dry for a good month before the final polish to let all the solvents evaporate (If you rush it any solvent left in the paint will cloud the finish). Unless you are really lucky or have an incredibly steady hand there will be flaws in the clear coat but fear not, most (if not all) can be sanded out. There is a really cool little device sold at all paint supply shops that can shave off runs and drips. Use it, it works wonders. Once you have shaved off any major flaws wet sand the entire car starting with 1000 grit and working up through 1500 and 2000. Use a block to get a perfectly smooth surface. Then rent (or buy) a buffer and compound polish it using the 3M or Meguiers polishing goo and you will be amazed at the results. Better than factory and just as durable if you take the time to do it right.
Its a **** load of work but now you know why really good paint jobs cost upwards of $5000
Hope this helps I can send you some of my research if you shoot me an e-mail
Mike
I recommend taking off the front and rear bumpers, remove all the lights, the mirrors, and the side skirts. If you want to do the engine bay you will need to remove the motor as well. You will NEVER achieve a good paint finish in there by just masking off the engine.
if your existing paint is in good condition you can use it as the base. Just block sand the whole car, fill in all the little dings that you never knew you had untill you really looked, wet sand it and clean the hell out of it. Now you are ready to paint.
I highly recommend the Dupont chroma base/clear system. Its very easy to use, gives excelent results and is forgiving of mistakes. put a coat of epoxy primer over any filler or bare metal before the base coat. For a re-color you will need at least three full coats of the base color. Expect about 5 to 6 quarts. You will also need at least that much clear (I recommend two full gallons, you really cant put too much clear on)
If you take the time to wet sand the base coat with 600 grit to get a really smooth finish before the clear coats the results will be amazing.
Be sure to work in a dust free and well ventilated area and wear a respirator! The clear coat in particular is ******* TOXIC and you DO NOT want to be breathing it. Trust me on this. I probably took several years off my life the first time I did this.
let the clear dry for a good month before the final polish to let all the solvents evaporate (If you rush it any solvent left in the paint will cloud the finish). Unless you are really lucky or have an incredibly steady hand there will be flaws in the clear coat but fear not, most (if not all) can be sanded out. There is a really cool little device sold at all paint supply shops that can shave off runs and drips. Use it, it works wonders. Once you have shaved off any major flaws wet sand the entire car starting with 1000 grit and working up through 1500 and 2000. Use a block to get a perfectly smooth surface. Then rent (or buy) a buffer and compound polish it using the 3M or Meguiers polishing goo and you will be amazed at the results. Better than factory and just as durable if you take the time to do it right.
Its a **** load of work but now you know why really good paint jobs cost upwards of $5000
Hope this helps I can send you some of my research if you shoot me an e-mail
Mike
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Re: Full shell respray/color change... (92sleepR)
um......WOW. I did not plan on painting the car myself, just prepping it. To save a little money and get the satisfaction of it. I wish I could paint cars, that wuld save me a lot of money and something I could say I did myself.
anyways, I plan on getting
-new front/rear bumpers
-new hood or CF hood paintmatched
-new fenders
any other body parts that should probably be replaced because of wear and tear?
anyways, I plan on getting
-new front/rear bumpers
-new hood or CF hood paintmatched
-new fenders
any other body parts that should probably be replaced because of wear and tear?
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Re: Full shell respray/color change... (navin)
Oh.. Well, Never mind then
Actually most of what I told you still applies because to get a decent paint job that's what the shop will do anyway. If I were you I would rent a compressor and do at least the primer coat and block sanding. That should cut down on a lot of the labor.
Mike
Actually most of what I told you still applies because to get a decent paint job that's what the shop will do anyway. If I were you I would rent a compressor and do at least the primer coat and block sanding. That should cut down on a lot of the labor.
Mike
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Re: Full shell respray/color change... (navin)
take off everythign that would cover up the metal chassis....or anyhtign that would keep the paint from hitting the metal......
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