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The easiest repair is to have someone experienced with aluminum welding weld a new piece there that can be tapped. Then tap it to the correct thread size and pitch.
The other option is get the piece from another rocker assembly but I do believe the head will have to go to the machine shop to be worked. I do believe that also works as a cam cap too, thus the required machine shop hone to mate the piece to the head.
Besides the fact OP didn't show they still had the broken off chunks.....
The D16Z6 engine here doesn't have the same kind of design that you can easily reinforce it with sheet aluminum as well as create a safety net if the broken piece fails to be held by the epoxy.
The B16A2 head has a nifty design that you can create a reinforcement trap in the event the epoxy fails.
Besides the fact that everyone thinks I'm a moron for even suggesting it even though on non cast parts JB weld held 10 pounds approximately 6 inches out from the glue point without issue. I'm not a mathematician but I do know that the leverage distance multiplies that 10 pounds to much more than 10 pounds pressure on the glue point. It failed after a few minutes of 15 lbs at the bolt tip and this was with sand blasted, non cast parts (natural cast roughness bond).
So I figured it's best to just conform and keep my personal opinions that I know work well for me to myself.
Besides the fact OP didn't show they still had the broken off chunks.....
The D16Z6 engine here doesn't have the same kind of design that you can easily reinforce it with sheet aluminum as well as create a safety net if the broken piece fails to be held by the epoxy.
The B16A2 head has a nifty design that you can create a reinforcement trap in the event the epoxy fails.
Besides the fact that everyone thinks I'm a moron for even suggesting it even though on non cast parts JB weld held 10 pounds approximately 6 inches out from the glue point without issue. I'm not a mathematician but I do know that the leverage distance multiplies that 10 pounds to much more than 10 pounds pressure on the glue point. It failed after a few minutes of 15 lbs at the bolt tip and this was with sand blasted, non cast parts (natural cast roughness bond).
So I figured it's best to just conform and keep my personal opinions that I know work well for me to myself.
It was finger tight. I'm assuming the shop that replaced the head gasket and water pump may have over tightened it and may have caused the issue. I just unbolted replaced gasket and tried to hand thread the bolts back In when it happened.
We have tapped into the hole bit deeper and put a threaded Rod in place of the bolt with loctite with a nut on top of the valve cover.
It holds very well, since the bolt isn't torqued much at all. Just a quarter turn past hand tightened.
03-11-2017, 11:54 AM
Broken threads for valve cover
Re: Broken threads for valve cover
