Fuel needle on CLuster not working, fixable?
#3
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Re: Fuel needle on CLuster not working, fixable?
get a multimeter and check to see if there is any continuity on the connectors to the meter. It's possible the cluster is fine but the wires from the gas tank to the cluster aren't working. Get the service manual as it has the diagnostic procedures for this problem. In my case, my fuel light doesn't work like it should.
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Re: Fuel needle on CLuster not working, fixable?
#7
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Re: Fuel needle on CLuster not working, fixable?
fleabag was partially right when he said to check for continuity coming from the fuel sending unit. I say partially because the resistance has to be between certain amounts, too high and the fuel reads too low, or vice versa (I forgot which way the potentiometer was thrown on the fuel sending unit arm).
I'm have no idea where my helms manuals are but if I stumble upon them in the next 5 or so minutes I'll tell you what the actual readings are supposed to be.
If the fuel sending unit has the correct resistance, and is grounded properly, then it's either the wires going up to the cluster (partial ground-out), or the cluster itself.
Seeing as you just switched clusters it's most likely the cluster itself. Is it fixable? Yes, you can replace just the fuel gauge of a cluster, just requires pulling some clips and unscrewing some smaller screws. Or you can just get a new cluster (it's probably cheaper). Though I'd verify that it's that.
AN EASY WAY to get around all the tech stuff is to just throw another cluster in there and see if you get a reading other than full. In my experience, a constant reading of full typically means cluster, but depending on how the potentiometer or signal wires failed, it could be the fuel sending unit, wires, or cluster.
Throw in a new cluster, first, I'll look for the resistance readings if I can dig up a helms around here..
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#8
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Re: Fuel needle on CLuster not working, fixable?
Okay, I dug one up:
When you take off the fuel sending unit cover (the plate with like 4 screws underneath the rear seat) disconnect the 3 pin connector.
On the wire side, connect the positive probe to the center pin (yellow/white) and the negative to the side (black/white) pin.
Should be measuring 5-8v.
With ignition off:
Throw a jumper (just use a piece of wire or paperclip to connect) between the yellow/white and black/white (the two that you were measuring the voltage of) pins, and turn the ignition on, the fuel gauge should go all the way to full.
If the needle doesn't move when you jump the wires the gauge or wires up to the gauge are bad. If it does then the problem is most likely the fuel sending unit.
If you're not getting proper voltage when you measure it (before you jump it) then the issue is probably ground related, in the wires (broken/exposed wire), or possibly the cluster.
That's outta the helms, hope it helps ya some.
EDIT:
PS:
A) The gauge moves kind of slowly, so watch it for a minute after you jump it.
B) It's easiest to test by throwing another cluster in there and turning the car on..unless you have a full tank I guess...
When you take off the fuel sending unit cover (the plate with like 4 screws underneath the rear seat) disconnect the 3 pin connector.
On the wire side, connect the positive probe to the center pin (yellow/white) and the negative to the side (black/white) pin.
Should be measuring 5-8v.
With ignition off:
Throw a jumper (just use a piece of wire or paperclip to connect) between the yellow/white and black/white (the two that you were measuring the voltage of) pins, and turn the ignition on, the fuel gauge should go all the way to full.
If the needle doesn't move when you jump the wires the gauge or wires up to the gauge are bad. If it does then the problem is most likely the fuel sending unit.
If you're not getting proper voltage when you measure it (before you jump it) then the issue is probably ground related, in the wires (broken/exposed wire), or possibly the cluster.
That's outta the helms, hope it helps ya some.
EDIT:
PS:
A) The gauge moves kind of slowly, so watch it for a minute after you jump it.
B) It's easiest to test by throwing another cluster in there and turning the car on..unless you have a full tank I guess...
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Fuel needle on CLuster not working, fixable?
sounds like a short or something like that.. That usually happens when that sort of thing happens. The removal of the needle was a bad idea because recalibrating it now is going to be especially difficult. You could have a short anywhere along the line.
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Fuel needle on CLuster not working, fixable?
Someone's taken the fuel gauge out before and broke it by overtightening the screws when reinstalling it. Many people on this forum have done this (though none of them are speaking up). While it's possible to fix the delicate solder connections on the circuit board, it's a lot easier to just get a working fuel guage from another cluster and replace it. Just be really careful to not OVERTIGHTEN the screws and you'll be OK.
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