Fuel/idle Problem
02-16-2010, 11:50 AM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Fuel/idle Problem
Unfortunately, i think the eg that i got ended up being a little bit of a money pit...
-Runs cold, like, the temp gauge rarely goes above "C". If im in traffic, it raises up to the normal driving temp area (1/4 of the way up).
-I'm getting VERY bad gas milage, like 120-150/TANK!! It take a couple tries to fire up in the morning, not cuz the temp, because if i let it sit all day during the past couple days, it will take two tries to fire up.
-I get a tad of white smoke after idling for long period of time, goes away once i stabilize speed. Dont believe its coolant since the rad is never dry after driving 45 miles one way to work.
-Cold idle is around 1200rpm, then anywhere between 500-1000rpm at normal driving temp. It surges/fluctuates/bounces between 500-1000rpm is what i mean.
-IAT cel code 10, replaced with new IAT, cel still there even after ecu reset.
-Lastly, vac line disconnected at rear of IM on driverside, line goes to the char canister, i attached the line and the motor either boggs out, or idles below 500rpm
d15b7/z6 mini-me, running the b7 ecu until i find a p28, using the 4-wire o2 and vtec is wired up.
Im not sure where to begin, my assumptions are...
-Injector stuck open, or fails partially.
-No thermo/stuck open thermo.
-Need the p28 to get the correct air/fuel ratio.
Im stuck over all on what to do, i've heard that the IAT could directly cause bad gas milage, but im not sure.
-Runs cold, like, the temp gauge rarely goes above "C". If im in traffic, it raises up to the normal driving temp area (1/4 of the way up).
-I'm getting VERY bad gas milage, like 120-150/TANK!! It take a couple tries to fire up in the morning, not cuz the temp, because if i let it sit all day during the past couple days, it will take two tries to fire up.
-I get a tad of white smoke after idling for long period of time, goes away once i stabilize speed. Dont believe its coolant since the rad is never dry after driving 45 miles one way to work.
-Cold idle is around 1200rpm, then anywhere between 500-1000rpm at normal driving temp. It surges/fluctuates/bounces between 500-1000rpm is what i mean.
-IAT cel code 10, replaced with new IAT, cel still there even after ecu reset.
-Lastly, vac line disconnected at rear of IM on driverside, line goes to the char canister, i attached the line and the motor either boggs out, or idles below 500rpm
d15b7/z6 mini-me, running the b7 ecu until i find a p28, using the 4-wire o2 and vtec is wired up.
Im not sure where to begin, my assumptions are...
-Injector stuck open, or fails partially.
-No thermo/stuck open thermo.
-Need the p28 to get the correct air/fuel ratio.
Im stuck over all on what to do, i've heard that the IAT could directly cause bad gas milage, but im not sure.
02-16-2010, 12:55 PM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Fuel/idle Problem
But yea, i just havent had the time to really dig into the damn car yet!! working and moving doesnt free up very much time.
02-19-2010, 10:30 AM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Fuel/idle Problem
BUMP
i picked up some new spark plugs, gonna do a pretty extensive tune up to the EG this weekend, finally. Im convinced my horrible gas milage and white smoke is due to the fuel injector(s).
I have a chevy s10 carbed, there is a single injector at the top of the carb and an o-ring was jacked up, so every time i'de try to fire it up, it would get flooded. When the o-ring was replaced, and everything fired up properly, i had a **** load of white smoke coming out with each rev. Eventually, like an hour later, the smoke stopped and has not since returned.
So, to try and see if my injectors are leaking, is it "safe" to remove the rail with injectors still in tact, then turn to ACC and let the pump prime? Im sure if something was leaking, this is where i'de notice it.
Also, can someone confirm that the IAT sensor malfunctioning (code 10), is directly related to bad gas milage?
i picked up some new spark plugs, gonna do a pretty extensive tune up to the EG this weekend, finally. Im convinced my horrible gas milage and white smoke is due to the fuel injector(s).
I have a chevy s10 carbed, there is a single injector at the top of the carb and an o-ring was jacked up, so every time i'de try to fire it up, it would get flooded. When the o-ring was replaced, and everything fired up properly, i had a **** load of white smoke coming out with each rev. Eventually, like an hour later, the smoke stopped and has not since returned.
So, to try and see if my injectors are leaking, is it "safe" to remove the rail with injectors still in tact, then turn to ACC and let the pump prime? Im sure if something was leaking, this is where i'de notice it.
Also, can someone confirm that the IAT sensor malfunctioning (code 10), is directly related to bad gas milage?
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02-19-2010, 12:30 PM
#8
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Fuel/idle Problem
Which thing? i have a few things that are all connected im sure...the biggest problem is the fuel consumption, which im sure is related to the idling, which im sure is related to the IAT sensor.
The vac line going from the rear of the intake mani to the evap canister is removed. I tried to hook it back up but the idle drops down too low and the car dies.
The vac line going from the rear of the intake mani to the evap canister is removed. I tried to hook it back up but the idle drops down too low and the car dies.
02-19-2010, 12:57 PM
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Fuel/idle Problem
haha no way dude, that thing was problem after problem...at least with the eg, everything seems to be realted.
These are the parts i've gotten so far.
-ngk plugs
-oil filter
-oil obviously
-thermo
-some new injectors lined up if i see mine are leaking while the pump is priming.
EDIT: oh hey man, can you get the hook up on 6x9s?
These are the parts i've gotten so far.
-ngk plugs
-oil filter
-oil obviously
-thermo
-some new injectors lined up if i see mine are leaking while the pump is priming.
EDIT: oh hey man, can you get the hook up on 6x9s?
02-19-2010, 01:13 PM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Fuel/idle Problem
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/overh...underheat.html
I love the author of this, he knows his **** big time.
I love the author of this, he knows his **** big time.
The temperature gauge takes forever to get to the half-way mark
The gauge barely moves off the "Cold" mark
My heater's output is terrible
The transmission's torque converter won't lock up
The transmission won't shift into top gear
I just failed emissions on high HCs
My gas mileage is lousy
Numbers 1 through 3 are symptomatic of a thermostat that has failed open.
Number 3 can also be a defective or seized heater control.
Numbers 4 through 7 may be related to the thermostat.
As stated here, the thermostat's job is to keep the engine running at the correct temperature, which is about 90C (194F) (depending on the model). Coolant temperature is an important sensor input to the ECU.
If the engine's temperature is reported as being cooler than what the ECU is expecting as full-operating temperature, the ECU will direct a richer mixture, which will lower mileage, increase emissions, and put fuel into the oil, which will in turn greatly accelerate cylinder bore wear. As well, the ECU will often prevent an automatic transmission from upshifting into overdrive or lock up the torque converter until it sees a "full-warm" signal from the coolant temperature sensor.
The gauge barely moves off the "Cold" mark
My heater's output is terrible
The transmission's torque converter won't lock up
The transmission won't shift into top gear
I just failed emissions on high HCs
My gas mileage is lousy
Numbers 1 through 3 are symptomatic of a thermostat that has failed open.
Number 3 can also be a defective or seized heater control.
Numbers 4 through 7 may be related to the thermostat.
As stated here, the thermostat's job is to keep the engine running at the correct temperature, which is about 90C (194F) (depending on the model). Coolant temperature is an important sensor input to the ECU.
If the engine's temperature is reported as being cooler than what the ECU is expecting as full-operating temperature, the ECU will direct a richer mixture, which will lower mileage, increase emissions, and put fuel into the oil, which will in turn greatly accelerate cylinder bore wear. As well, the ECU will often prevent an automatic transmission from upshifting into overdrive or lock up the torque converter until it sees a "full-warm" signal from the coolant temperature sensor.
02-19-2010, 10:37 PM
#13
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Re: Fuel/idle Problem
haha no way dude, that thing was problem after problem...at least with the eg, everything seems to be realted.
These are the parts i've gotten so far.
-ngk plugs
-oil filter
-oil obviously
-thermo
-some new injectors lined up if i see mine are leaking while the pump is priming.
EDIT: oh hey man, can you get the hook up on 6x9s?
These are the parts i've gotten so far.
-ngk plugs
-oil filter
-oil obviously
-thermo
-some new injectors lined up if i see mine are leaking while the pump is priming.
EDIT: oh hey man, can you get the hook up on 6x9s?
i need a pair of 6.5 speakers myself...!!!
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