Swansen

I think my answer is in the first link, but i'm busy as a mug and spending an entire afternoon doing nothing basically gets old quickly. I'm going to replace the soft line to the caliper, but this would be the second new caliper and it still siezes, not as bad as the first new caliper, but its still pretty bad. That said, i don't see any wear on the outside of the rotor. The piston side seems to be constantly squeezing, but not the outside, it was the same for the other caliper also. To reword that, there isn't any wear on the outside of the rotor, its only on the inside where the piston applies pressure...

If anyone has any ideas so i can narrow down my diagnostic process it would be greatly appreciated.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...aliper+locking
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...aliper+locking
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...aliper+locking

instructor74

when you replace the caliper did you lube the slide pins with a synthetic caliper lube? even a new caliper should have these pins lubed. DO NOT USE a petroleum based lube it will swell the rubber guides and cause the caliper to seize. Get yourself a tube of permatex 24125 ceramic brake lube
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125.../dp/B0018PSASU
clean all the guide pins, rubber guides, and pins DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEAN ON THE RUBBER it will cause it to swell. once everything is clean relube all the surfaces with a nice coating of lube. Clean the brake caliper mounting bracket where the brake pads ride install the brake pads and make sure that pads slide freelly if they are tight file a little metal off the brake pad horn until it slides nicely on the bracket. Re assemeble the brakes and test.

shifty35

Check your pedal adjustment to make sure it isn't dragging.

Swansen

Guide pins were greased with high temp brake grease, but the carriers NAPA supplied had the guide pins seized into the carrier... So, the caliper may still be at fault, i need to check that out, it was late last night so i didn't feel like breaking everything down again..

Is the pedal adjustment pretty straight forward? like everything should pretty much jump out at me, or should i be looking for something specific?

I dunno... in my experience with brakes its always something and everything, so i'll probably just end up messing around with everything until something works, but i need to re-bleed the brakes... one of the Russell's speed bleeders failed... a drop spits out every time the pedal is depressed.

Thanks for your input though guys, i'll keep everyone posted, but until monday i'll just be messing around with what i have as parts won't be here until then..

--edit---
found out how to adjust the MC/booster pushrod ...but i'm not completely understand why this would cause brakes to sieze issue?? Also, found more links to the same issue.. apparently a bad brake booster will cause locking?? but i was under the impression that brake boosters only function is to give you "power" brakes?? so that you don't need to be a professional leg lifter to push the pedal down??
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/front-brakes-lock-up-prelude-accord-brake-set-up-2514752/#post39364451
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/brake-locking-up-2605756/ - suggesting bad brake booster

http://www.automotiveforums.com/t692...s_lock_up.html
^(AF forum on locking brakes.. ok, so lines, Brake booster, adjustment it is..)

Swansen

OK, so i released vacuum from the brake booster (took off the vacuum line and plugged it off) and my front calipers released, but i still need new carriers and guide pins, but monday.

Anyways, actual question, so do i have to replace the brake booster at this point or would an adjustment fix my problem?? or both?

Swansen

anyone? brake booster? adjustment??

------edit-------
well.... once again the FSM had yet to fail me.. if i hadn't lost my keys i would test it tonight... nightmares..

---edit----
well.. i'm going to replace all of the lines and hoses and take out the ABS stuff, because its not working an i might have a mile of really bad brake fluid in the system. SO, after that point i'll see if i still have a problem with that caliper sticking as well as diagnosing the booster/MC. Also, for anyone who stumbles here, here are some more links to related problems, also, link for how to adjust the Brake Booster Push rod. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...djustment.html

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/brake-gurus-i-need-brake-help-all-4-calipers-locking-up-while-driving-2369106/
(locking calipers, bad pedal)

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/brake-booster-push-rod-1428522/#post18507893
(push rod issues)

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/brake-problem-please-help-2nd-post-2438515/
(more on pushrod adjustment)

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/brakes-locking-up-after-ex-upgrade-wtf-2605861/
(some dude who didn't really fix a problem...)

Swansen

ok.. i'm at a loss right now. I released the bleeder to let pressure off the caliper and its still seized. So is it possible that this second caliper is just failed?? It makes sense to me, but i'm so lost right now. Help would be great.

----edit------
loosen banjo bolt and the caliper freed up. So i am hoping and praying that that side is just frozen because of the brake line being faulty or something like that, and hopefully the lines come tomorrow...

norurb

So how did you fix this problem? I'm experiencing the same thing on my '93 EX coupe.

Swansen

Took off the bango bolt from the caliper and it released, so with that i concluded that the line had collapsed, replaced it and i was golden.