bigboi407

I have had nothing but nightmares since buying my civic, long story short after a complete rebuild, milled block & head, i put it all back together, sat for a few minutes wondering why it wouldnt even bump over, i discovered i left the D/S connections to the wiring harness disconnected , Connect said plugs, and VOILA, Fires right up, but shortly thereafter starts surging as it did before the rebuild (This is not why i rebuilt it, Warped the block & head)

But idle is surging, and im not 100% familiar with these two devices, the Idle Air Control Valve.... And the Fast Idle Thermal Valve
im not 100% certain which would be causing the issue, but it was intermittent before, it surged for a little, hit the gas hard, it would go away for a While, but now that the car has been sitting 10 months, i didnt have any other issues than the overheating which warped the block, so i didnt temper with the intake, but it seems im going to pull the Throttle body off and check it out

Which of the two cause the surging idle?

tony_2018

did you bleed the system?

bigboi407

i removed them both, took both apart as much as they allow, put them back on, turned it on, and the surging went away, then i discovered a severe water leak, so i had to take the intake back off and i have to go get an O ring for the pipe that runs from the water pump to the thermostat, mine somehow got cut

Any suggestion on how to get this O-ring in Easily?

tony_2018

You didn't have to take the intake manifold off for that. I know what you're referring tol.

bigboi407

After Replacing the O-Ring, i fired up the engine and it began surging all over again,i located another IACV, am not sure if its good, this time i noticed that the sound from my intake has changed, i replaced the IACV and the issue returned

Would a bad IACV cause noise in the intake?

And what would be a sure way to solve this surging issue?

it was suggested i go over my valve lash adjustments (not that i disagree, but highly unlikely the culprit)

i was also reading that "Timing" could cause surging, being off by a tooth or two, But i dont think thats the issue here

But then when i went to pick up the other IACV from someone locally, he mentioned that the Throttle body could be causing this problem if i put the IACV i got from him in the engine and it does the same

i dont mind having to buy a new IACV if these are both bad, i just want to be sure, because it is a vale i suppose checking with a multimeter will only tell me the electrical aspect of the part not how much it opens mechanically

tony_2018

I realize you didn't answer my original question, did you bleed the system?

bigboi407

let air out of the cooling system bleeder?i did at first, probably should do so again

now ive got another issue, my battery dies overnight, but ive found something to help me with that, so i wont need to question it here

UPDATE: Just for ***** n giggles, i disconnected the IACV plug, and the surging went away immediately and its running better than it ever has...

Im not familiar with hondas like i am washing machines, but im just thinking along the same lines of electronics, if this said component becomes unplugged and the symptoms dissapear, wouldnt the issues be related to solely this component?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

If you think it's just "letting air out of the cooling system bleeder", then there's a good chance you aren't doing it right anyway. Secure the front of the car on jack stands. Remove the radiator cap. Start the car. Let it run for two radiator fan on/off cycles, keeping the radiator topped off at all times. Reinstall radiator cap, and you're done. Should take 15 to 20 minutes. Symptoms going away when something is unplugged is not indicative of a failed component. If there's air in the IACV/FITV because of a failed coolant bleed, then it'll act like a failed part when really it's just an air pocket. If there's a vacuum leak, pulsing might go away after unplugging the IACV because it's trying to compensate in a leaking system.

It's only one step in testing - it isn't definitive.

bigboi407

"If you think it's just "letting air out of the cooling system bleeder", then there's a good chance you aren't doing it right anyway. Secure the front of the car on jack stands. Remove the radiator cap. Start the car. Let it run for two radiator fan on/off cycles"

I just rebuilt the engine, i ran it well over two fan cycles and added as much as needed to be added,

to presume that "did not do it right anyway" because i was not 100% familiar with the other guys question in terms of what type of "system bleeding", Doesnt make much sense, But OK..........

Completely brand new and stock D16Z6, new wires, new plugs, new cap, new rotor

the only thing i have never messed with are these two which after watching some videos, im quite certain i have TWO bad IACV's, though i am not 100% certain this is to account for my sputter when taking off, i managed to take some video of it happening, im going to double check my timing, but im 99% sure its dead on, because my Oil pump arrow does not line up properly according to the stroke of the piston, so i disregarded the arrow by placing the dipstick in Cyl 1, topping out the stroke, placing it to TDC, putting the belt on, tightening it down, turn the engine twice, double check it with the dipstick AND distributor, and all is dead on #1

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Being a smartass when someone is trying to help you? Yeah, I'm sure that's going to work out great for you. There's a certain mission critical part that I'd be willing to bet you left out. Good luck figuring out what it is, and hopefully your attitude doesn't alienate any other smart members from answering you.

bigboi407

Youre the one being the smartass then get mad when i dont like it because i specify what i did??? seriously ask yourself if i rebuilt an engine after already warping a block and cylinder head to my own negligence of not torquing down the headbolts, Assuming that i did something wrong, sounds like im not the one being the smart ***.......

"There's a certain mission critical part that I'd be willing to bet you left out, Good luck figuring out what it is" Really??? guessing u didnt read what ive wrote on the thread, this Riddle isnt gonna make me pull my hair out, its just an engine, im quite sure the Idle air control Valve is the culprit....

completely new engine with dead on timing, leaves the intermittent surging to only be one of a few things, has to be something controlling Air, cuts out many things to look at, the throttle body, the idle air control, and Fast idle thermal valve

I Came to find out if i can use a Multimeter to test the Idle Air Control Vale, if my HDD didnt crash id have had a FSM file handy

bigboi407

its a shame that i come to a forum to communicate with other honda owners/tech and get picked on because im not a regular, this guy must think this is the Only honda forums on the internet, and that im some teenage ricer punk that doesnt know ****.......

Remove the radiator cap. Start the car. Let it run for two radiator fan on/off cycles, keeping the radiator topped off at all times. Reinstall radiator cap, and you're done. Should take 15 to 20 minutes.

IDK about Anyone else on this forum, but ive done this to EVERY car ive EVER touched the cooling system on, its standard procedure in my mind, and would be obviously excecuted if your running a freshly built engine, at least i dont see how you wouldnt inevitably do this

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I'll give you one last hint, since you're too bull headed to both reading. Was your car sitting flat on the ground when you bled it?

bigboi407

i read every word you said, the car was on metal ramps essentially leaving the front higher than the rear

hondur

iTrader: (1)

Did you do the cleaning procedure on the second IACV?

What year is your d16z6, btw? There's at least two different routing diagrams for the coolant hoses for the dumb emissions equipment, make sure you've got it correct depending on the water tube you've got.

bigboi407

i have a 94 EX sedan, and it was pulled from the same exact model/year civic, i did not clean the second IACV, im not 100% sure that the control valve hoses are backwards or not, but the tubing kind of only allows for them to go one way

that was going to be my "DOH" thing to touch on next after looking at this situation over and over again, but i keep going back to remembering having this issue before the rebuild

hondur

iTrader: (1)

If I were you, I would service the FITV and IACV according to the directions in this section of honda-tech's FAQ. The blatter inside of the IACV has a lot of surface area so use a lot of cleaner on it. Not only that, but clean the throttle body by spraying the main cylinder and butterfly valve with throttle body cleaner, and wiping them down maybe even scrubbing them with a rag. Followed by spraying all of the passages clean with more cleaner.

I forget where I found the diagram for the 94-95 Z6 but the routing is different from the 92-93 which is whats in the FSM

bigboi407

Looks like im selling this piece of ****............. over $500 into the engine, and now im getting white foam in the radiator with what looks to be like material from the intake gasket, but i dont know, what i do know is my Dakota 2.5 doesnt budge, i can nail the pedal to the floor and leave it, she wont budge, shaved head, shaved block, brand new everything.........

White foam coming out of the radiator, but it wont push past the cap into overfill, and im getting this random spit ever so often while the engine is idling in park

Oddly enough, the temperature wont rise

RodimuzPrime

don't forget to cut the heat on when doing cause the heater core could trap air in it. Sometimes over looked by first timers. Over heating could of been caused do to air being trapt. I am a graduate from Lincoln Tech I and your on point with this diagnosis.

RodimuzPrime

yes that is one way of doing it. If the computer sees a high idle it trim back the idle speed. It also temperature related. Coolant aspect can cause surging if you got air in the system. Make sure your car front end is elevated bleed the system and cut the heater on in the car. This make sure there is no air trapped in the lines leading to you heater core or in it. Check your coolant reservoir you may or may not have to add a little coolant after your done.