DelsoldS

Well we took the 92 civic to the shop to have the jdm h22a wired up and running. 8 months later we got tired of their bullshit and went and got the car. 4 months later we are still trying to figure out why it won't run right. we checked the timing and it appears to be good. throwing code 3, 10, and 21. the car runs but doens't have any power, won't rev past 6k and takes like 15 seconds to get to 6k. One thing we just noticed is there ins't a resistor box wired up. Could the car run with peak and hold injectors with no resistor box? if not do you think that they put obd2 prelude 270cc injectors in it? would that be the reason it has no power? they rigged up a prelude harness in the car and its very hard to figure out what they did. my friend is in the process of suing the shop but we'd like to figure out the problem if we could so any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated.

EDIT: the car is running off a p13 ecu

Luserkid

I would ditch there harness and redo all the wiring. It would make it alot easier on you.

JDMlyfestyle

This is why i will never hire a shop to do any of my work.. cause they are ******** 99% of the time

PM member EGmikeh22 he should be able to help you with the wiring.

postman

yeah man strat that **** all over, it will save time money and headaches

3.point.2

wow your car was in a shop longer than mine (the shop couldnt finish my swap either). some shops are good others say they know how to do things to get your money hoping they can figure out how to get it done. good luck

EGmikeH22

yo dog, sorry to hear about the effed up wiring.

my advice would be to get ahold of a stock civic harness, and a stock harness from something with an H22 (the one on your car now might work)

the lack of power is probably in the coolant temp sensors, that ECU wont let you rev past 6k if it doesnt have the vtec temp switch connected properly, its the one by the thermostat, and its a pita to wire. (mine is still fucked up)

when you're removing the harness from the donor car (IE junkyard car) label everything you unplug, then when you go over to the engine, plug everything that'll fit into the engine, switch any connectors that wont fit, and extend any wires that are not long enough.

you do need a resistor box, get it out of an old accord or something, they're all over online and in junkyards.

the injectors should be the stock ones from the engine, the way to tell is the OBD1 ones have blue/red/brown/yellow positive wires, and the grounds are all yellow/blk (the grounds might be a constant power and the neg is ECU regulated but i dont remember.

**** i gotta go, PM me if this didnt answer everything

DelsoldS

just incase anyone was wondering the guy who did the work was DJ , owner of ET Motorsports in weyers cave, virginia

does anyone know if the injectors would work at all without the resistor? cause we're confused as to why they are working if there is no resistor box, because he might have gotten a set of saturated injectors and put them in.

when i say the car doesn't have any power i mean it doens't have any power it barely idles, most of the time when you hit hte gas it dies, but sometimes you can get it to rev up very very slowly, at WOT it takes an estimated 9-12 seconds to rev up to 6k. it barely has enough power to pull itself down the road. I guess we'll go ahead and scrap the old harness and start from scratch unless anyone else has any suggestions to try

DelsoldS

well we fixed the vtec code and the iat, they weren't plugged up. but we put 3 new map sensors in it and every time it throws the map code. we will reset the ecu, then turn the key to the on position and it will throw the map code, before we even start the car! i think the reason is because he has hte ground wire grounded to the car, because on the pinout i have from here there isn't a spot on the ecu for the MAP ground. does anyone know where the ground wire from the map is suppose to go?