Mr. Choi

so finally after months of thinking about this i read somewhere i can jus switch out the hub. that was the motovation i needed or wanted to hear to swap out my drums. went to a local junk/salvage yard picked up a 95 gsr rear trailing arm which also came with cross drilled slotted rotors for 200. it was a pretty good deal for me. anyways this is what i did.

basically took out my factory trailing arm and took out the bolts holding the hub and drum assembly from the rear. everything was straight bolt off bolt on. and whoever said that we need to use the SI brake cable is WRONG. i used the integra brake cable and it works fine. although 1/2 inch to 1 inch short it still works.

still using my stock civic master cylinder and prop valve. the only question i have now is, will a 40/40 prop valve put more fluid/pressure to the rear so that i may have more rear brake bias? who knows, i hope you do.

have many pics but im on 56k i may upload them, maybe. so anyone know about the prop valve thing?

rukawa1one

Whats up man, U have an EK right? Well u should find a prop valve from a 99-00 SI, it shoud balance out the brakes better. Bolts right in too. If u want a better pedal feel, change the master cylinder and booster too, but its not neccesary

CivicSiRX

i assumed u have an ek, if so, get the 99-00 civic si 40/40 prop valve and 99-00 civic si brake master cylinder, no need for the booster, the ek booster is the same whether its a dx or si. bolts right in and u will feel the difference.

Mr. Choi

ek? we're not in japan here, its a ej6. anyways same ****. haha. i think i'll get some new pads soon and look for a new prop valve to put some more fluid back there. thanks guys.

AzntaggeR

yeah i have heard of doing it that way where you just swap out the hub itself, but it's just easier to swap the whole trailing arm IMO.

teamsol

hey guys for an eg (i wish i could visit japan) haha could you still use the si prop and master cyl? thanks

all stock

i just swapped over the trailing arms when i did mine. much easier imo - unless yours were bent. i used gsr brake cables too. that took me about 1 hr to bent and move the metal brackets.

CivicSiRX

i posted this over at another forum but should be helpful if you have a 5g civic...

for all 5g civics:

if you wanna go 15/16in get the following:

94-97 integra RS non abs 15/16in master cylinder
90-97 integra RS non abs brake booster
90-93 integra RS non abs or 92-95 civic Si non abs 40/40 prop valve
with this setup, its a direct bolt on and will require no reflaring or bending of any brake lines.

if you wanna go 1in get the following:

94-01 integra GSR abs 1in master cylinder
94-01 integra GSR abs brake booster
90-93 integra RS non abs or 92-95 civic Si non abs 40/40 prop valve
with this setup, u have to bend and reflare one hard brake line and put a new fitting on it due to one of the brake lines mount on the opposite side of the mc.

if you wanna go 15/16in without swapping boosters get the following:

1991 civic EX 15/16in master cylinder
90-93 integra RS non abs or 92-95 civic Si non abs 40/40 prop valve
with this setup, its a true bolt on affair and u will not have to change out the stock brake booster.

make sure to get the prop valve as it help distribute the brake fluid to all lines accordingly for a 4disc brake setup. im currently using a rs non abs setup for my eg. have fun and good luck.

menkio

Modified by DewMota at 5:17 PM 5/22/2004

suspendedHatch

If you have your stock front brakes and only swapped the rear drums for discs, you can keep your stock prop valve.

gookspeed

so let me get this straight. You can just remove the drum breaking system of the stock trailing arm.. and take the disc breaking system and slap it on?

Mr. Choi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lilvietdoode4o8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so let me get this straight. You can just remove the drum breaking system of the stock trailing arm.. and take the disc breaking system and slap it on?</TD></TR></TABLE>


yes you can do that. i only recommend doing this if you have air tools, or else it might be a pain in your hands.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shaundrake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have your stock front brakes and only swapped the rear drums for discs, you can keep your stock prop valve.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Incorrect. Where did you get this false information? The stock porp valve is for drum brakes, which require less pressure then disc's. In order for the system to function correctly, you will need to upgrade the porp valve.

vtecb20coupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSiRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you wanna go 15/16in without swapping boosters get the following:

1991 civic EX 15/16in master cylinder
90-93 integra RS non abs or 92-95 civic Si non abs 40/40 prop valve
with this setup, its a true bolt on affair and u will not have to change out the stock brake booster.

make sure to get the prop valve as it help distribute the brake fluid to all lines accordingly for a 4disc brake setup. im currently using a rs non abs setup for my eg. have fun and good luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok, so let me make sure i understand this...

i've got the rear disk setup(entire hub) from an actual jdm eg6. i should be able to do as quoted above, correct? which brake lines and e-brake cables can i use?

Mr. Choi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Incorrect. Where did you get this false information? The stock porp valve is for drum brakes, which require less pressure then disc's. In order for the system to function correctly, you will need to upgrade the porp valve.</TD></TR></TABLE>


hmm i thought a drum prop valve would put more fluid/pressure to the rear since the drum master cylinder is the size of a dime. regardless which prop valve puts the most pressure to the rear? probably the 40/40.

Mr. Choi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecb20coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ok, so let me make sure i understand this...

i've got the rear disk setup(entire hub) from an actual jdm eg6. i should be able to do as quoted above, correct? which brake lines and e-brake cables can i use?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i used the brake line and cable that came with the integra rear arm. this went on a 00 civic. people have said you HAVE TO use a civic SI brake cable but they're wrong. im using the integra one and it works fine. only problem i ran into using the integra brake cable is that one of the mounting bracket doesnt line up so i jus took it off. you dont really need that extra bracket anyways.

JDMbolo

Good job, i will be doing mine as well

Mr. Choi

here are some pics.

disc on the left with the ricey red caliper.


you need to change that little brake hose bracket too.


my endlinks.

imurdaddy

cool good luck

3RdT

nice job. wut end links r those? or they custom made?

Mr. Choi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3RdT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice job. wut end links r those? or they custom made?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, i made a new thread about them.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Choi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


hmm i thought a drum prop valve would put more fluid/pressure to the rear since the drum master cylinder is the size of a dime. regardless which prop valve puts the most pressure to the rear? probably the 40/40.</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake2.htm

"Proportioning Valve
The proportioning valve reduces the pressure to the rear brakes. Regardless of what type of brakes a car has, the rear brakes require less force than the front brakes.

The amount of brake force that can be applied to a wheel without locking it depends on the amount of weight on the wheel. More weight means more brake force can be applied. If you have ever slammed on your brakes, you know that an abrupt stop makes your car lean forward. The front gets lower and the back gets higher. This is because a lot of weight is transferred to the front of the car when you stop. Also, most cars have more weight over the front wheels to start with because that is where the engine is located.

If equal braking force were applied at all four wheels during a stop, the rear wheels would lock up before the front wheels. The proportioning valve only lets a certain portion of the pressure through to the rear wheels so that the front wheels apply more braking force. If the proportioning valve were set to 70 percent and the brake pressure were 1,000 pounds per square inch (psi) for the front brakes, the rear brakes would get 700 psi. "

Jokerluv

who hoo now you are heavier

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jokerluv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who hoo now you are heavier</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not everything can be about weight and speed. It only makes sense to me that if you want to upgrade the speed of your car, you should also upgrade the braking system to handle the speeds the vehicle can now generate. Disc brakes have many advantages such as cooling and less chance of fading if/when they get wet.. Its also a lot easier to change the pads instead of dicking with all the springs on drums to do the shoes. I would say it only adds about 5lbs anyways over a drum setup, IF that.... To me, my safety is worth a little more weight on the vehicle.

A B series engine adds about 100lbs more to the Civic chassis, but people aren't steering clear of that addition!

Mr. Choi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not everything can be about weight and speed. It only makes sense to me that if you want to upgrade the speed of your car, you should also upgrade the braking system to handle the speeds the vehicle can now generate. Disc brakes have many advantages such as cooling and less chance of fading if/when they get wet.. Its also a lot easier to change the pads instead of dicking with all the springs on drums to do the shoes. I would say it only adds about 5lbs anyways over a drum setup, IF that.... To me, my safety is worth a little more weight on the vehicle.

A B series engine adds about 100lbs more to the Civic chassis, but people aren't steering clear of that addition! </TD></TR></TABLE>


well said. i mean whats 10 pounds if you can stop 5-10Ft shorter. oh yea fyi, its about 10lb heavier. 10lb im willing to add on.

thanks Hybrid93Eg