OmgDelSol

Ok guys my motor in the 94 sol vtec finally gave out at 280k. I called hmotorsonline and the total for my motor is 1900 with shipping included. Is there anything else I should replace while doing this swap? Like motor mounts etc... Thanks in advance.

B(eighteen)C

Oil pan gasket, water pump, timing belt, main seal, tensioner/spring. If your rear motor mount isn't torn just keep it. Do you race the car? Or...

OmgDelSol

No, it's just my DD. I'll be ordering my long block soon that comes with just about everything. Also will I have to do anything the my computer?

jbpnoman

Assuming you're replacing your motor with the same thing, no, your current ECU is fine. If you're replacing it with a different motor, we'd need to know what motor you're replacing it with.

gzes

Do all motor mounts while its out and get poly mounts because the oem style mounts suck to get in and the tbracket mount is a bitch to get out once the motor is in so do it and not worry about it. if its a different motor then get the correct torqe mounts aswell. I would check the axles and make sure the boots are good and properly greased and replace any ripped or torn boots. It kinda sucks but you cant have dirt n **** get in and cause a malfunction.

MEn'MYEK

New cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. A new fuel filter and intank screen wouldnt hurt either. I agree with Gzes mounts are always first on the to-do list when replacing things. And think about getting new oem fluids while your at it.

S2BumpsticksGSR

Nows the time to clean up engine bay while motors out, unless you like it grimy. Steering rack boots are easy access too. Flush the radiator a few times and put new thermostat/hoses. Axle output seals are a breeze w/trans out.

OmgDelSol

Yeah i'm going with the b16 vtec motor that was already in it. I do intend on cleaning the bay as much as possible while it is out. Do I really need to replace the cap and rotor? The new motor is coming with it already installed. I'm making a list as we go through this. Can you guys suggest some mounts for me that aren't too pricey. I've heard hasport every where I go but they are quite expensive.

S2BumpsticksGSR

Avid mounts are good quality too for less. That's what I bought. You have the option of steel w/urethane or billet alum(cost more). Do not get avid mounts any higher than lowest durometer(stiffness) unless you want rattles. I have the Mid durometer ones and most of dash rattles.looking back I should have went softer

OmgDelSol

Ok i found some but i didn't see an option to choose billet or steel. They had it listed as Pro series, Tuner series, Billet series, and Billet Sleeper series. Also I didn't see anything about softness. Maybe i'm missing it.

kyden

any reason you want aftermarket mounts?

S2BumpsticksGSR

If anything, call them and ask which ones are softer. Id guess its the tuner or billet sleeper. Pretend like you're checking out and the select option menu might tell you the stiffness. Lower # is softer.

OmgDelSol

No particular reason. This isn't going to be a track car just a daily driver. I just asked for suggestions. I would love to save some money and buy regular parts. I'm just making sure i do it right the first time.

kyden

if your oem ones are in good shape, i don't see why you would need to replace them.

OmgDelSol

Yeah, i'll check them I guess. Just figured it would be best to replace them now since I don't intend on removing the motor after the swap.

gzes

The mounts are still gonna be worn if they are good. Just go ahead and do them to save pita in the fuure. O and oem style suck to get the bolt throuh when you drop the motor in. Gotta mess with them with a screwdriver for a while to get the bolt to go through and the tbracket mount. Is the hardest to line up the hole for the bolt. I would get a solid mount yes soft but something that isnt going to move around when the engine is going in and have problems getting the bolt through

OmgDelSol

Yeah I'm thinking either hard race or avid mounts.

FrodeyEJ1

Get the high comp b20z block for 750$
You'll thank me and save 1000$

OmgDelSol

II don't want to have to get a new transmission and mod everything to get a motor to fit.

jbpnoman

Plus the cost of transmission, mounts, shifter linkages, and ECU. Then there's the fact that it's federally illegal and won't pass smog anywhere that actually checks it.

Yeah Frodey, sounds like a great idea.

S2BumpsticksGSR

Op fyi, all the b trans interchange w any b motor. Just for future ref. Ya, smog states boooo I know how it goes.

94EG8

Replace the timing belt, waterpump, cam and crank seals with new OEM stuff. Same with the rear seal. Anything else is on a case by case basis. If the mounts are torn, replace them. OEM or hardrace would be what I'd go with if it's daily. If you need a clutch now would be the time to do that as well.

FrodeyEJ1

Figured this was a b series seeing as the block is $1900 and he said del sol vtec.(possibly z6 but w/e). Also it was never stated that they check smog where he's located.
My opinion was to buy a much cheaper block. Hell he could even put his old head on it.
Just an opinion fellas.

OmgDelSol

It's fine man lol I wouldn't have a smog problem where i live. I've never done motor work or even swapped a motor so i'm trying to keep this simple.

HondaPartsHero

Everything for a b20 would bolt in the same (transmission, axles, mounts, wiring). The only thing different you would need would be an OBD1 LS distributor and an ECU and P75s are a dime a dozen. I concur with the above poster if it were me I'd at least get the b20z or the B18C. The money you save on the long block alone of the B20 would be worth it and the added torque of the larger displacement would help the Sol move along. You could put the $1000 back into maintenance and a clutch kit. It's just my .02 but the B16 is still pretty gutless and the Del Sol isn't exactly a light weight in the chassis weight dept.