Sienile

I'm tired of replacing the head gasket, resurfacing the head, and having to repeat the process every few weeks. Can someone tell me if they make a fiber-type head gasket (the type that's on 90+% of all cars today) that will work on the Civic? This steel gasket blows more than a hooker on the corner.

Failing that, does anyone know of a way to seal the steel gasket that does not involve copper spray and/or ARP head studs (of which I've tried both).

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

You shouldn't be replacing it every few weeks regardless. Something else is going on with your engine. You say you resurface your head each time. How much is taken off each time? How many times have you actually done this? And my last question (for now) have you had the block surface inspected for straightness? That gasket seals on both sides, not just the one facing up.

doood

iTrader: (1)

you're obviously doing it wrong. what gasket are you using?

Sienile

The old block was straight, so is the new block. (Replacing it due to stripped head bolt holes. They got tired of me taking them out and back in. )

Not sure how much they chop off, but it's not much. Gasket always fails on top side, never the side facing the block.

I replaced the gasket 5 times the first month I had it, and another 3 times since then. Always torqued properly with a beam type wrench. Last 3 times were with ARP studs and copper gasket spray.

My experiences with this car will prevent me from buying/recommending a Honda ever again. I just want to get this pile of junk fixed right so I can sell it.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

How did you verify that each block was straight? And are you saying you had the head shaved a total of 8 separate times?

Oh and to answer your question, I believe a felpro gasket available at your local parts store is probably what you are looking for.

Sienile

Not according to Haynes, Chilton, or Honda.

This one:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...8768_171707_0_

Sienile

The same way any good mechanic does, with plate glass and a feeler gauge.

doood

iTrader: (1)

replacing the gasket 8 times says you are

purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

I can guarantee there is something VERY wrong with your setup if you've blown EIGHT head gaskets.

My B16a2 is on its 1st after 180k mi, it's JUST NOW beginning to come to question.

Sienile

This is the only car I've ever had head gasket issues with. It's also the only car I've ever had with a steel gasket.

As preventative measures, I replaced the radiator, fan relay, thermostat, water pump, and both temp sensors the week I bought the car (same time I replaced HG #1). The only thing I didn't replace in the cooling system was the heater core, but there is no evidence of any leak and it works great.

That leaves only the block, head, and gasket. Head's been checked at the machine shop when resurfaced.
Block has never leaked externally and checked as evenly flat, but I'm having to replace it now due to the stripped threads. I know that could be a big source of my problems (especially for this last time), but the leaks were in areas away from the stripped threads.
New block came from a car with no water-oil mix and I checked it with the glass too. I'm trying to find a fiber gasket before installing it.

So, the block may be a problem, but it's being addressed already. And to steer us back toward the original idea of this thread....

Are there any tricks to getting a good seal on the steel head gasket, or is a fiber gasket available?

Sienile

I misread this earlier. Thought you were asking if I replaced the gasket 8 times, which I did.

I had it machined 3 times. Once when I first got it, and again after HG #3 and #6.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Composite material.

xile6

With a striped head bolt your get head lift.
It would also be good if you posted some pix of the motor torn apart. TO me it sounds like you did something wrong or the block isnt flat.
Also could be a cracked cylinder.

Hidenplanvew

You might as well just finding a motor that hasent been taken apart because it seems like you really have no skill at this game...

Find a new machine shop too sounds like they suck and you should be using a straight edge

canadaek

ya how would glass work ?? take a look at your windshield notice that neat curve ??? pay somebody that knows what there doing.

motegicivic

Are you using a honda gasket?

What brand torque wrench, a cheap one can get out of calibration.

ehrkeith

To answer your original question I've never seen anything other than the metal 3 layer headgaskets come in any gasket set from an auto parts store.

You might need to try a cometic head gasket, your not boosting 24psi so you shouldnt really have to though.

You've pretty much narrowed it down yourself though, its either the block or head, I would have both taken to a different machine shop and checked for straightness. I wouldnt trust plate glass or a straight edge. Its probably worth the money in your case to have a shop do it. Also you have a d16y8, why not just pickup a new longblock for 400 dollars and quit wasting money?

Each headgasket is what 30 dollars? 30x8=240
Plus ARP head studs 340
Plus machine work(I'm assuming 65 to mill and check head) and your at 535, just to name a few things. You coulda had another motor in there already?

94EG8

D15B7/D15B8 headgasket ('92 - '95 Civic CX/DX/LX) is composite/graphite. They suck. 3 layer steel is the only way to go.

Some people swear by copper spray, some guys swear at it, but Honda doesn't recommend it. Also once you overheat an aluminum block engine they never seem to be the same again, they tend to blow headgaskets left right and center after.

Sienile

A piece of plate glass is perfectly flat. If at any point you can fit your thinest feeler guage between the glass and the machined surface, there is warpage.

It's a trick my dad tought me. Straight edges can bend. Glass can only break.

Sienile

Cheapest I could find a long block was around $800... Where did you see them for $400?

I was already thinking I might have been better off having done that.

Sienile

That's probably why they were selling it. Probably also why the threads in it stripped under the patheticly weak 50ft/lbs torque that Honda recommends.



Well, I think I have it. Thanks to 94EG8 and 24TEN for giving me the info I was looking for. And sorry I didn't understand it the first time you said it, 24TEN.

Former User

This^

Glass is not necessarily flat, and it can flex.

You need to check for warpage using a precision straight edge.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

glass flexes. just like plexiglass.

you heat up one side of the glass it will curve because the other side is cold. the hot side expands and the cold side stays the same. just like any other material. you placing it on the cold/ warm engine surface will deform it.

straight edge is thick to prevent warpage from heating and cooling.

i rebuilt 3 single cam engines last year. with cheapo headgaskets and they all lasted a year. using old headbolts, no resurfacing was done on either of 3 engines and i used metal felpro headgasket on last one. and it blew out because of overheating due to cheap *** main seal gushing oil.


you are doing something wrong buddy...


what engine are you trying to fix.
what do you use to resurface a grinder with sandpaper or a real machine shop that does it for you?
are you letting copper spray set or start the engine right after its assembled?
is your oil/coolant pressure out of specs and blowing out because theres not enough or too much oil/coolant pressure?

jbpnoman

Another thing worth mentioning, are you re-torquing after running for ~50 miles?

Seriously, if you've gone through 8 head gaskets, you're doing something wrong. Don't try to blame this on Honda.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

i never had to retorque mine. and would imagine that shops wouldnt either especially on DOHC engines that requires removal ov cams and timing belt...