When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I have a big question mark on mind according to this diagram striaght out of the Haynes my primary O2 sensor should right in the manifold as displayed
But looking down personally on my car my Primary O2 sensor is set where it should be on a B16A2
Could this be messing with the numbers the Primary O2 sensor puts out due to it not being in the right spot?
Yea the EX Z6/y8s that had the more ideal stock exhaust manifold setup have the 02s down low. The DX/lx etc manifolds got the upstream 02 right off the block. Changing exhausts between engines is fine and all you need is pigtail extender for the 02 plug so I would imagine the position doesn't matter much if any for reading it's placement is based on exhaust design.
Yea the EX Z6/y8s that had the more ideal stock exhaust manifold setup have the 02s down low. The DX/lx etc manifolds got the upstream 02 right off the block. Changing exhausts between engines is fine and all you need is pigtail extender for the 02 plug so I would imagine the position doesn't matter much if any for reading it's placement is based on exhaust design.
So then say I wanted to buy a new Primary O2 sensor would I have to buy a down stream one then since its all the way next to the cat?
So then say I wanted to buy a new Primary O2 sensor would I have to buy a down stream one then since its all the way next to the cat?
No. You shouldn't as long as your not getting a CEL from the second o2 sensor. Stick with OEM Denso primary o2 sensors as Honda's are sensitive to non OEM ones.
Is your reason for buying a new o2 related to your other thread...constant low idle?
No. You shouldn't as long as your not getting a CEL from the second o2 sensor. Stick with OEM Denso primary o2 sensors as Honda's are sensitive to non OEM ones.
Is your reason for buying a new o2 related to your other thread...constant low idle?
Would you be able to confirm for me that is a proper upstream O2 sensor?
You should contact the seller and ask him if is specifically for your car and if it is an OEM product.
The first reviewer of it in the reviews section states:
"Used to replace a contaminated sensor on a 2000 Civic EX with the D16Y8 engine. This is the exact same sensor used by Honda when manufacturing the vehicle. Basically Honda used/uses Denso as an OEM for parts. Going the amazon route and not the dealer route saves tones of money. Minor fitment note for 2000 Honda Civic EX: There is a little "collar" type thing on the Honda provided sensor that allows it to "clip" onto the metal support hanger. This "collar" is not on this sensor, but the wires will still fit in the hanger and electrical tape can be used to keep them from "working" loose in the engine bay.
Other thoughts: A new O2 sensor really brings an engine back to life, I would seriously recommend replacement as 100k+ mi maintenance (of course every engine is different and there are zillions of factors involved on how they ware, etc. i.e if your engine is burning oil replacing the sensor is a waste of time, the oil will contaminate it and the engine at that stage has pretty much expired its useful life) ."
The biggest thing your going to notice from a properly functioning 02 is fuel mileage. Possibly also better driveability in the mid throttle areas of the powerband, but it's not going to change how the car performs or acts at all during WOT. When you go wide open, the 02 isn't even used anymore and the ecu will just run its open loop fuel mode. When ordering the part, just specify your model of vehicle and you will be good to go. For a little extra insurance, contact a Honda dealer or use any other method to get the exact OEM part number and then make sure when you order it that is the part # you get and your golden.
The biggest thing your going to notice from a properly functioning 02 is fuel mileage. Possibly also better driveability in the mid throttle areas of the powerband, but it's not going to change how the car performs or acts at all during WOT. When you go wide open, the 02 isn't even used anymore and the ecu will just run its open loop fuel mode. When ordering the part, just specify your model of vehicle and you will be good to go. For a little extra insurance, contact a Honda dealer or use any other method to get the exact OEM part number and then make sure when you order it that is the part # you get and your golden.
I wasn't doing it for power it was gonna be a last resort at the end of the road of trying to fix my poor low idle since it seems like I have literlly done everything else to the book that should help the idle but hasn't.
I had a similar issue. It was one my o2 sensors being faulty.
When the car is started from cold, it runs open-loop, meaning the A/F ratio is controlled solely by the ECU, disregarding O2 sensor readings. When the car warms up, it switches to closed-loop and bases the A/F ratio on the feedback that it gets from the o2 sensor.
For me, the issue was a faulty o2 sensor that was still working... just incorrectly. I never got a CEL because as long as the secondary sensor reads lower than the primary, it assumes all systems are working and that the cat is doing its job. It then takes those inaccurate readings and sends them to the ECU, thus giving you a wacky A/R ratio.
Ok so as far as a checklist, for the low idle problem have you:
Adjusted and calibrated TPS
Checked/replaced IACV
Cleaned TB
Checked for any vaccum leaks
Changed spark plugs recently
Check/replace plug wires and dist. Etc.
Also might want to check fuel pressure at idle to check for pressure spikes/surges
As well as Inspect/test belt driven accessories such as alternator, PS pump, AC clutch etc. These things are often overlooked but can definitely cause idle issues.
01-28-2015, 05:50 PM
Exhuast/O2 Sensor Issuse 2000 Civic EX
