77777

92 cx, just threw on in teg rears.

stock master cylinder, all threads i have ever read point to this being ok as long as fronts are still stock.

3030 prop valve, same as 92-95 si if im not mistaken.

finally finished this swap, brake pedal travel was far, i thought i was just sucking at bleeding. had to take it in for an align anyway so i had them bleed it. they got to going, they ended up telling me the reason my bleeding wasnt working is because i needed a master cylinder. i went with it, i tried to talk the guy into finding an si mc while i was at it but he just got confused as **** as to what i was trying to do, it wasnt TOO expensive, 199 installed, so i did it.

but i got this ****er back and it is not improved at all to what it was when i dropped it off.
after align and tie rods and bs, another 500 total(which did improve my steering immensely) i just threw down $850 and my pedal is still practically banging the floor. it still stops and all, but it doesnt feel improved either as to what my bleeding had accomplished.


also i recall on a thread earlier about someone having a problem and it just needed pedal adjustment. im about to get on that search.

is this just normal when using the stock size mc?

either way ME=PISSED. because either something is still ****ed up, or if it is the pedal the cars fine which rocks but i wasted a shitload of money i didnt have on an mc, and they charged 40 in labor and 20 in parts just for the god damn bill murray bleeding.

94EG8

the prop valve you want comes from the '92 - '93 Si plus a few other civics that didn't have rear discs, its a 3040. Btw, '92 - '93 Si hatchbacks had small CX style front brakes with rear discs, they use the same 13/16 MC as the CX does. The pedal travel is longer with rear discs, it is what it is. The pedal shouldn't be on the floor though.

77777

its not literally on the floor, but full pressed like during hard braking its down a damn good ways.

i had a 4040 valve, well still do, but last minute i read 3030 was fine so i left that. the car has been modified in the past with god knows what, it had been turbo at some point i can see. so i figured maybe it had discs at some point.
i could switch them, but some of those fittings are a bitch, plus im a little paranoid of doing it, bleeding again myself, and making it worse haha. i need like a week to recover from the stress this car has put on me before i jump back in. 4040 worth a go?

4everjdm

I have a RSX Type-S Booster & MC, stock fronts, Integra LS Rear disc. works fines, just had to bleed a few times.... maybe your loosing presure through a rubber hose?

4everjdm

O, the set up is on my 95' Civic. Good Luck Bro!

speedooo

I have a 94 cx w/ '00 si front, '00 ls rears, stock 30/30 prop valve and the pedal is definitely NOT on the floor.

fungus mungus

I did both the fronts and the rears and ended up swapping both the MC for the teg MC and the prop valve for a 40/40. Absolutely no problems...the brakes feel like stock...except they stop a heck of a lot better than before. Not sure, but it sounds like you didn't go with the bigger MC, is that correct?

fm

92lxsleeper

you need the 15/16" master cylinder from the teg.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Check that the slide pins on the calipers are not stuck. If the slide pins are stuck, the pedal travel usually increases and you can have weak braking. My friend's car had this issue for a long time. After repeated bleeding and frustration, I noticed that one of his calipers was "flexing" more than others as he applied the brakes. The pins were stuck and the caliper was stuck far away from the rotor making for more pedal travel and a very ineffective brake at one wheel.

I yanked the pins with a torch/vice grips. Wire wheeled them off. Cleaned the caliper bore with a bottle brush looking thing that came with a battery cleaning kit I have. Regreased, reinstalled...problem solved. I'm the king.

A couple of future tips:

You should also bleed the brakes with the car on. This not only helps with pedal pressure, but you also end up moving more fluid.

Don't just go along with with some tech thinks is right. Why would the master cylinder suddenly fail when you installed the rear disk?

77777

see these are the things i read that make me rage haha. but seriously, the caliper thing is a good idea. i was going to test the rears today if i can get a helper and see if they are even working, because im betting the problem if any would be back there. i think the dude that gave me these pulled them from a junkyard so who knows what could be going on with them.

i mean yeah, at this point im pretty certain i wasted a lot of money on a mc i didnt need, not only that but just another dinky one...
this is the first time in life a shop has ever done anything to a car i have besides some oil changes on my truck, and it will be the last after this experience. if i hadnt needed my car driveable you better bet i would have been out of there so fast.

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

I ran rear disks on my VX with stock MC and prop valve without problems. If I can recall correctly, pedal wasn't super firm but slightly soft. However, braking would engage approx. 3/4 on the way down.

Upgraded the fronts later along with 4040 prop valve and 15/16" MC.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

If i remember correctly, u have to bleed the Driver front, then pass rear, then pass front, then driver rear in that order.

The furthest away scenario doesnt work with our brake systems. I did this sequence and my brake fade went away the 1st time.

77777

^ i was curios about that, i have been reading threads saying such. i must admit i was doing it the traditional way, rears to front. also might be worth a shot, after i can verify the calipers are operating correctly. if bleeding in the proper order does by chance fix it i am going back to that shop and ripping homies ***** off with my bare hands if i paid $60 and it wasnt even done right. i might have to call and see what order they did.

that actually does make sense, and could explain peoples mixed results. because i know a good number of guys are also just doing rear to front bleeding and i can recall a few of those at least being the guy who bled it 10 times and its not getting better. hmmmmm....


i should also mention, when the car is off the pedal feel is excellent. seems to be a common thing with this problem after swaps. still waiting for people to wake up so i can attempt to get an extra set of hands haha.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

well dont go ripping these guys. Theyre working on your car. Same goes for any waiter/bartender.

But just research it to make sure my sequence is correct.then go in and ask to have them re-bled in that order.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The pedal always gets stiffer when the car is off and you deplete all the vacuum assist.

It really doesn't matter which order you bleed them if you spend enough time on it. I think the method in the manual makes it so you're doing the process more quickly. But it wouldn't hurt to re bleed them in the right order.

I'd be more mad that their replacement MC didn't work. I'd demand my money back for that or ask that they find/fix the real problem for free.

77777

drove a little to do an errand. if i pump the brakes as im stopping it gets better and stops good, of course it goes right back afterwards.

could a vacuum leak cause something like this? i took something off the intake manifold, no idea what it was if im honest, to allow better access to check out the prop valve. went back on, but could i have knocked something off somewhere and caused a leak that would affect the braking? i checked that yesterday but it seemed liked everything was on.

this is the thing i took off:

my manifold is slightly different but that bit appears to be the same.

apexi_rsx

thats your IACV shouldn't have nothing to do with your brakes but you do need that for the car to run properly

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The brakes get better when you pump them either because of excessive piston travel (pins are stuck) or air in the lines. Since its been bled 50 times, remove each caliper from each bracket and test the pins.

If they dojt slide easily by hand, remove, clean, lube....or buy replacement brackets/pins if its real bad.

itsmejto

the caliper pistons at the back screw in/out to adjust free play, disconnect the parking brake while you do em correctly.

DCRB

i know it's a different style of car, but i did a rear disc conversion on my hatch using ls rta's, a 40/40 prop valve and a stock 8" booster and 13/16ths master cylinder. i didn't loose any pedal travel, and it felt just as good as before with drums

77777

would i want to screw the piston in or out then? i have yet to try it, i looked at them thats about it.

i checked the pins, one was stuck, i spent almost 2 hours getting it out and cleaning everything and lubing it. i didnt put the wheels back on or drive it just yet but i started it up and pressed it a bunch, pumped it, and no improvement.

i was able to test and verify the rears do grab. although the d/s doesnt seem to grab as well as when the ebrake is on.

94EG8

The valve you want is actually a 3040, different again from the 3030 and the 4040. Its for small front brakes and rear discs (and some small front rear drum applications as well)

No you don't.

77777

i am contacting corporate of this company to see what my options are as far as a claim for the verified pointless part i was sold.

im thinking after i try the piston adjustment i might just have to buy some rebuilt calipers. other than that the only thing i can think left is the booster maybe?

when bleeding the rears before, or trying, there hadnt seemed to be as much fluid coming out as the fronts. which is why i bought the mc, it kind of made sense. this afternoon just to indulge myself i tried to bleed a rear and it was doing the same thing, pretty much verifying the mc was totally useless. they sold it to me because they couldnt bleed it, and apparently maybe you still cant...

ennohohbee

so if your coming to a stop...and you pump your brakes up do they work better!?

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

all im saying is my brakes were bled the traditional way and my pedal did the same thing.. I did some research and re-bled them in the order i found, and they worked fine after. There was a pocket deep in the line.