big-cat

ok for the past prob 8 months i have been researching on turbo's for d-series and how it will all work out and everything.
just recently (past couple of days) i have been looking for how much some complete motor swaps are going for. i have noticed that an obd1 b16 complete swap over goes for around 2k give or take a little b18c for around 3k ish. but the h22a complete is going for a little bit over 2k. why is it that the h22a is so much less money wise,yet so much more engine wise? i have heard they are hard to swap in ek's. but is it really that much harder than a b18c? so that u would pay a grand more and get a bit less power than an h22a? its just not making sense to me

has anybody, or does anybody have an h22a swapped in there civic and was it hard/ worth it or not.thanks in advanced

big-cat

bump, sorry for the noob question.

Lewy. Dee Ayy

iTrader: (1)

swapping an h22 into an ek is cake..dropped my friends in, in less then 4 hours and got it running.

big-cat

nvm now i know why no one does it. i just found a do it urself on hondatuningmagazine.com and u need welding, cutting, drilling, cant keep a/c, or power steering. it would be better off to do it for a complete drag car, but no good for auto X or just plain street raceing everyonce in a while.


Modified by big-cat at 2:17 PM 12/20/2006

Syndacate

Quite simply, if you ignore the first post.

A B18 swap is cake compared to an H22 swap. They are NOT the same aside from the fact they're both going into the front of your car .

With an H22 you have to custom fab mounts or pay $450 for hasport "h22 into eg or ek" mounts. You have to do other misc. stuff like wire up a resistor box for the fuel injectors.

That was posted on hmotors awhile ago before mount kits became popular and at the time you also had to shave down the block or it'd hit the firewall when you accelerated (though I'm pretty sure the hasport mounts eliminated that). Got to cut a big *** hole under your radio for the cables to go through for the tranny too. Or you can buy an H2B adapter plate and run a GSR tranny.

The way I see it when I was thinking about putting one in my EJ1 was simply that - the motor in and of itself is cheaper, but the swap as a whole is a lot more expensive.

It's easier if you find a totaled prelude and just start shopping for parts out of that. You'll still need the 90-93 accord axles (or aftermarket H22 to EG axles) and you'll still need to cut a hole out in front of the shifter for the cables to run down unless you plan on using a B series transmission in which case you'll still need the B series adapter plate.

It's mostly b/c it's a "pain in the ***" compared to a B swap where you simply swap the mounts, and drop the motor right in, swap the tranny, everything bolts right up, put in the new ECU and you're ready to rumble.

Hope that helps.

I was thinking of the H22 as an alternate to boosting a D series but it'll come out WAY over what boosting a D series will cost (unless you get a good deal on a totaled prelude and buy the conversion parts carefully) from the way I see it.

PS:
Boosting a D also has more versatility. By that I mean if you ever feel that the 200hp you're netting at the wheels isn't enough, you can put forged rods, lower the compression, bearings, etc. ($800-$1500 maybe?) and run 350whp on 30psi.

See the H22 uses a weird cylinder wall composite making it not very boost friendly. Not only do you not gain a lot from boosting it but they "break" easier in my opinion. You can try a natural aspiration route (no forced induction) but then you run into the problem with any NA build - you can't NA build 4 cylinder engines simply because they lack displacement. Doing a naturally aspired build on a V8's a whole different ball game.

lowcivex

supply and demand

big-cat

yeah so basically the h22a in the civic, just wasnt ment to be and someone did it just so they said they could. like if u have to do all of that just to get an h22 in a civic then imo it just want meant to be and or isnt worth it. im going to go boosted d for as long as possible and if the d-blows ill either buy another part of what ever i need for the D or i will go in to the b-series range. i love an n/a but d-series motors dont. oh well.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowcivex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">supply and demand</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's PART of it but ONLY part.

There's a huge amount of H22's and nobody really wants them due to what I mentioned in my last post.

'Tis why they're cheap in and of themselves. Though as a swap they can get expensive...

EDIT:
PS: They're kinda crap motors in my personal opinion...I mean powerful as hell...not the most reliable things in the world though (I'm sure 10,000 pple like orly are gonna jump all over my as for this) but it's my opinion - that's just my opinion and nothing more...so plz don't try to change it...

NY state of mind

doing the swap itself is the easy part( as lewy. was speaking of ). and yes the reliability is the big BUT. i built my bottom end with acl duraglide 788 bearings all oem spec measured and perfect fit thrust washers also. eagle rods, je 11.5:1 pistons, and je pro seal rings. i broke it in and got 2100 miles on it, then all of the sudden yesterday i was having a problem shifting into second. about 1/8th mile later i feel something push up the whole bottom of my chassis and see it go flying down the road, so i pulled over and popped the hood really quick, the crank pulley had snapped the belt sheard off the woodruff key and went flying down the road with enough g's to make my car lift up. i gingerly got the car back home and proceeded to take it apart, only to find the the crankshaft endplay had gone from less than .001" to about .2" so even with high performance parts i still managed to have defective thrust washers. making the experience a bad one.

previously i had built don a turbo d15 in an ef with an mpfi swap. that on 5psi was a better experience all i ever did was blow the stock head gasket, so i spent $90 on a good one and problem solved.

so now i'm thinking i'm in the market for an awd wagon with the 6spd trans. doing a full build w/boost. even if it only goes 13.5 on 7psi i'll be happy.

big-cat

sweet. that encourages me even more, but now its going to be deciding on the kit. i think i am going greddy to begin(in my mind its expensive(im also 16)) but im assuming it will be well worth my expense. then i will just upgrade parts from there when i get the money. i want to make 200whp on stock internals and everything. hopefully i will be able to do that. i also kind of want to throw a monster turbo on though like a T3. something bigger than my td04(i heard it sucks up top wise and or it sucks up a lot of gas)

engine wise though its in my sig.thanks for the help guys.