Engine stall, idle issue
09-04-2017, 04:26 AM
#1
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Engine stall, idle issue
Ive recently bought a 92 civic with the engine of a 91 swapped in knowing that it originally had this issue. Now, the issue is this. The civic will run alright for as long as i need it to but when i come to a stop sign or red light, I have to throw it in nuetral and gently rest on the gas to keep the car from stalling. The other problem i seem to be having in correlation to the stalling issue is that when i run the car for more than 10-15min, it will either stall or idle a little rough and then stall. After the car stalls, i have to wait for 20 minutes to an hour to restart the car. Ive noticed that if i dont give it some gas it will spit and sputter until i floor it at idle for a second or two.
Things ive been told :
it could need a retro kit, could be the fuel filter, vacuum leak, a possible sensor issue, or clogged injectors.
Things I know :
Its not the fuel filter, just replaced that two days ago. Pressure out of the fuel pump is in check. I fed it some injector cleaner in about a half tank of gas with a little sea foam added. Changed the oil and added about a cup of sea foam to help clean a little more.
IT GENERALLY IDLES A LITTLE ROUGH AND LOW AND IS RUNNING LEAN.
NO CODES!!
Things ive been told :
it could need a retro kit, could be the fuel filter, vacuum leak, a possible sensor issue, or clogged injectors.
Things I know :
Its not the fuel filter, just replaced that two days ago. Pressure out of the fuel pump is in check. I fed it some injector cleaner in about a half tank of gas with a little sea foam added. Changed the oil and added about a cup of sea foam to help clean a little more.
IT GENERALLY IDLES A LITTLE ROUGH AND LOW AND IS RUNNING LEAN.
NO CODES!!
09-04-2017, 05:19 AM
#2
Re: Engine stall, idle issue
With any swap you need to check that a compatible set of parts are installed. What should have been done would be to use only the block and head from the 91 and keep the 92 manifolds, distributor, ECU, etc.
Idling too slow or stalling at stoplights you should start by cleaning the IACV and following the service manual procedure to set the idle air screw (which is NOT the throttle plate stop screw).
Stalling then not restarting is a different problem. Very often it is that the ICM inside the distributor stops working when it gets hot. When it will not start, check for spark, check for fuel pump priming and CEL cycling, check for ECU codes-- the whole "cranks but won't start" troubleshooting drill. But you have to do that during the time that it will not start.
Idling too slow or stalling at stoplights you should start by cleaning the IACV and following the service manual procedure to set the idle air screw (which is NOT the throttle plate stop screw).
Stalling then not restarting is a different problem. Very often it is that the ICM inside the distributor stops working when it gets hot. When it will not start, check for spark, check for fuel pump priming and CEL cycling, check for ECU codes-- the whole "cranks but won't start" troubleshooting drill. But you have to do that during the time that it will not start.
09-04-2017, 06:24 AM
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Re: Engine stall, idle issue
With any swap you need to check that a compatible set of parts are installed. What should have been done would be to use only the block and head from the 91 and keep the 92 manifolds, distributor, ECU, etc.
Idling too slow or stalling at stoplights you should start by cleaning the IACV and following the service manual procedure to set the idle air screw (which is NOT the throttle plate stop screw).
Stalling then not restarting is a different problem. Very often it is that the ICM inside the distributor stops working when it gets hot. When it will not start, check for spark, check for fuel pump priming and CEL cycling, check for ECU codes-- the whole "cranks but won't start" troubleshooting drill. But you have to do that during the time that it will not start.
Idling too slow or stalling at stoplights you should start by cleaning the IACV and following the service manual procedure to set the idle air screw (which is NOT the throttle plate stop screw).
Stalling then not restarting is a different problem. Very often it is that the ICM inside the distributor stops working when it gets hot. When it will not start, check for spark, check for fuel pump priming and CEL cycling, check for ECU codes-- the whole "cranks but won't start" troubleshooting drill. But you have to do that during the time that it will not start.
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