Engine smoke question
08-15-2007, 12:58 PM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: charlotte, nc, usa
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Engine smoke question (P12 EG6)
depends if its smokin cause of a blown head gasket, bad rings, bad valve seal, running rich........i had a friend with a cracked block and it smoked....
08-15-2007, 12:59 PM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (-1)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: athens, Al, usa
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Engine smoke question (P12 EG6)
we need a little more information, what color smoke? does it smoke at idle? have you done a leak down?
edit: smoked with a cracked block? for what 10 sec's?
edit: smoked with a cracked block? for what 10 sec's?
08-17-2007, 02:54 AM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Framlingham Tech Centre, Suffolk, UK
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Engine smoke question (P12 EG6)
Blue Smoke on cold start up or overrun is usually due to one of two things:
1) turbo seals damaged and leaking due to low oil, or a stuck EGR valve causing overheating;
2) valve guide seals worn or shrunk allowing oil to drain into the cylinders overnight or allowing oil to be pulled through the guides into the combustion chamber under vacuum (overrun is going downhill without any throttle).
RESTORE will improve most fledgling turbo seal problems. However, it is difficult for RESTORE to splash its way up onto the valve guides so we have to provide some manual help; remove the rocker cover and use a 'turkey baster' or plastic syringe or oil can to squirt RESTORE right on to the valve stems. This will repair the metal in the guides (normally marine bronze or cast iron). Then squirt some Engine Stop Leak (Unipart) onto the valve stems as well. This will fatten up the tiny rubber valve guide seals (they are actually Neoprene or Nylon). Pour the rest of the Engine Stop Leak in the oil as normal. Replace the rocker cover and drive normally. Problem solved, hopefully, within 50 miles.
Blue Smoke on hard acceleration is due to piston blow-by. RESTORE will fix this in 500 miles providing the piston rings are not broken. Check the compression in each cylinder to find out if all cylinders are bad or just one cylinder. If all cylinders are bad, providing there are no broken rings, RESTORE should fix it in under 500 miles. If you have one bad cylinder, re-check the compression on that one cylinder, add 200ml of RESTORE oil through the spark plug hole and re-check the compression (called a leak-down compression test). If the compression is better with the RESTORE oil then RESTORE will fix the problem in that cylinder. If, however, the compression is the same low reading even with the RESTORE oil then the problem is not worn cylinders or rings, instead it is a burnt valve or valve seat and the cylinder head will have to come off to replace the valve and recut the valve seat.
Black Smoke on start up may be cured by resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery (make a note of your radio code or immobiliser code before you do this) or cleaning the EGR valve and inlet air filter.
Black Smoke when warm is due to overfuelling - follow the same procedure as above. Dirty fuel injectors can also cause black smoke so using a fuel injector cleaning agent may help.
White smoke on start up is due to water vapour (condensation) inside the exhaust and catalytic converter. Make sure you have a new fuel filter installed (to remove water from the fuel).
Continuous White smoke when hot coupled with a sweet sickly smell (Glycol or coolant) is usually due to a cracked cylinder head or leaking cylinder head gasket and must be fixed before cylinder wall and bottom end damage occurs (water in the oil destroys bottom end shell bearings and seizes pistons in cylinders. Try a radiator sealant such as Kalimex K-Seal or Ce-lit in the radiator for 100 miles. If you've still got white smoke the only option is probably to remove the cylinder head and repair or replace it as necessary. (Please mop up any Glycol leaks as Glycol is poisonous to animals and wildlife.)
Quick fix for worn cylinder bores. This is like a dry/wet compression test (also called a leak-down or leak-by test) usually carried out using regular engine oil. By using RESTORE oil in place of the regular engine oil you can repair the bores at the same time. Try dividing a litre can of RESTORE down the empty spark plug holes (or glow plug holes on a diesel) and turn the engine over a few times before replacing the plugs and firing it up. It will smoke for a while then the compression should improve across all the cylinders. It is worth a try - doesn't work all the time - depends on how bad the bores are. If one cylinder compression doesn't lift on the dry/wet leak-down test then you can assume the problem is a burnt valve or valve seat. In this case the cylinder head must come off.
assuming also that you have no broken parts in your engine e.g. piston rings, cracked pistons etc., if your smokey and MPG is still high it is probably down to a worn engine, and we would recommend 2 small 250ml cans (500ml total) of Ametech Engine Restore Oil in a 2000cc engine and this should be enough to return your car to being a tiger in under 500 miles.
found this on
http://www.americantechnology.co.uk
under FAQs
1) turbo seals damaged and leaking due to low oil, or a stuck EGR valve causing overheating;
2) valve guide seals worn or shrunk allowing oil to drain into the cylinders overnight or allowing oil to be pulled through the guides into the combustion chamber under vacuum (overrun is going downhill without any throttle).
RESTORE will improve most fledgling turbo seal problems. However, it is difficult for RESTORE to splash its way up onto the valve guides so we have to provide some manual help; remove the rocker cover and use a 'turkey baster' or plastic syringe or oil can to squirt RESTORE right on to the valve stems. This will repair the metal in the guides (normally marine bronze or cast iron). Then squirt some Engine Stop Leak (Unipart) onto the valve stems as well. This will fatten up the tiny rubber valve guide seals (they are actually Neoprene or Nylon). Pour the rest of the Engine Stop Leak in the oil as normal. Replace the rocker cover and drive normally. Problem solved, hopefully, within 50 miles.
Blue Smoke on hard acceleration is due to piston blow-by. RESTORE will fix this in 500 miles providing the piston rings are not broken. Check the compression in each cylinder to find out if all cylinders are bad or just one cylinder. If all cylinders are bad, providing there are no broken rings, RESTORE should fix it in under 500 miles. If you have one bad cylinder, re-check the compression on that one cylinder, add 200ml of RESTORE oil through the spark plug hole and re-check the compression (called a leak-down compression test). If the compression is better with the RESTORE oil then RESTORE will fix the problem in that cylinder. If, however, the compression is the same low reading even with the RESTORE oil then the problem is not worn cylinders or rings, instead it is a burnt valve or valve seat and the cylinder head will have to come off to replace the valve and recut the valve seat.
Black Smoke on start up may be cured by resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery (make a note of your radio code or immobiliser code before you do this) or cleaning the EGR valve and inlet air filter.
Black Smoke when warm is due to overfuelling - follow the same procedure as above. Dirty fuel injectors can also cause black smoke so using a fuel injector cleaning agent may help.
White smoke on start up is due to water vapour (condensation) inside the exhaust and catalytic converter. Make sure you have a new fuel filter installed (to remove water from the fuel).
Continuous White smoke when hot coupled with a sweet sickly smell (Glycol or coolant) is usually due to a cracked cylinder head or leaking cylinder head gasket and must be fixed before cylinder wall and bottom end damage occurs (water in the oil destroys bottom end shell bearings and seizes pistons in cylinders. Try a radiator sealant such as Kalimex K-Seal or Ce-lit in the radiator for 100 miles. If you've still got white smoke the only option is probably to remove the cylinder head and repair or replace it as necessary. (Please mop up any Glycol leaks as Glycol is poisonous to animals and wildlife.)
Quick fix for worn cylinder bores. This is like a dry/wet compression test (also called a leak-down or leak-by test) usually carried out using regular engine oil. By using RESTORE oil in place of the regular engine oil you can repair the bores at the same time. Try dividing a litre can of RESTORE down the empty spark plug holes (or glow plug holes on a diesel) and turn the engine over a few times before replacing the plugs and firing it up. It will smoke for a while then the compression should improve across all the cylinders. It is worth a try - doesn't work all the time - depends on how bad the bores are. If one cylinder compression doesn't lift on the dry/wet leak-down test then you can assume the problem is a burnt valve or valve seat. In this case the cylinder head must come off.
assuming also that you have no broken parts in your engine e.g. piston rings, cracked pistons etc., if your smokey and MPG is still high it is probably down to a worn engine, and we would recommend 2 small 250ml cans (500ml total) of Ametech Engine Restore Oil in a 2000cc engine and this should be enough to return your car to being a tiger in under 500 miles.
found this on
http://www.americantechnology.co.uk
under FAQs
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
