Dev23

Having same issue with mine as this thread. Have a new icm on the way hoping that's the problem. Let my car sit for 5 days and it drove fine for 2 days then the 3rd day it died on me and had to wait 15 min before it will start again. All lights and radio work fine and it will turn over but hard to check spark when it's just yourself.

cmartdude54

Well, my 1997 Civic EX 4 door Sedan does the same. It runs great then shuts off abruptly. Seems to do it after running a while. I got a P0420 "crank senor code. Changed the crank sensor, it still has the same issues shutting off after warmed up.
Changed the ignition coil. I thought It was the issue, then it cut out again twice. I would think maybe a bad wire.
The mechanic said it is most likely a wiring issue but was so swamped with work can not get to it.
Does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram of my beater car 1997 Honda Civic EX Sedan?
The engine still has 165 PSI in each cylinder runs perfect except the engine cutting out unexpectedly.
If I knew I could splice into the crank sensor wires and run them to where ever it goes to see if that would fix the issue?
Any info on pin pointing a bad wire?
Thank you

TomCat39

I think I would first rule out the ignition key lock cylinder.

It's a simple test, crank the car and when it starts let the key snap back into the on/running position. If the car dies when it snaps back you have the common lock cylinder issue that causes random dying when running.

Hamster65

As I mentioned in another thread, check your EFI relay under the dash. Cracked solder connections on this relay can cause no start issues and intermittent dying while driving.

cmartdude54

How to test efi? I went a head an ordered a ignitor and distributor cap since I put new plugs/ wires, timing belt, crank sensor, water pump, ign coil.
I wonder why the P0420 code appears on the scanner up when the check engine light comes on, even after replacing the crank sensor and cleared codes?
As far as checking the ignition tumbler switch, as one mentioned to test it by starting the engine and letting the key go back to run. I assume he is referring to the same procedure as to starting the engine. I'm confused, because it starts every time and runs perfect till it cuts out 10 minutes later.
In my experience, that symptom sounds like a bad coil. After I get the new ignitor and distributor replaced. The only other issue I believe it has to be is the efi or bad wire.
The wiring harness is tucked in a hard to see and get to position.
I'm determined one way or the other.
Thanks for the input.

TomCat39

For the fast and dirty "ignition switch" test... Think about how you normally start the car, you turn the key to crank and as it starts to fire up you ease the key back to normal on (II) position.

For the test, instead of twisting backwards to the on position you softly continue to twist towards the start until your fingers slip off the key, letting the spring slam the key back into the on (II) position. Another words you are letting the key "pop" back into the on (II) position. If that doesn't fail in 5-10 tries, you can be confident your ignition switch is still strong.

Here is the recall info from back in the day:
TSB-ignition_switch.pdf


And this article goes through all the tests and describes behavior etc.

https://www.motor.com/magazine-summa...ecember-2002/#

This may not be your issue but if it is, you will be running on a wild goose chase till the end of days until you focus on testing the switch.

tamboo

you can also try cleaning it up to buy some time. mine was pretty black.
i did notice a difference after but since a new one is only 40 clams
i just replaced. it lasted about 350k so cant complain.

DIY Ignition switch cleaning - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

cmartdude54

cmartdude54

Oh! I see. I'll try that 10 times and see what happens.
I appreciate the info.
Thank you!

cmartdude54

The info on all the symptoms of a failing ignition switch is very informative.
I will most likely change the ignition tumbler if in doubt. It sure would be an easy cheap fix.
My 1997 Honda Civic EX is not on the affected model list but with 299,000 miles, I pretty much replaced everything, the ignition switch was turned over quite a few times. LOL