Engine Shut Off!!
#1
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Engine Shut Off!!
well I was coming back from discount tire after class today, and about 2 miles from the house, the car got real quiet and the tach dropped to 0. The radio was still playing, fan was still blowing cold air, though obviously the a/c was no longer on. all my stupid ricer b/s still worked [neons under the dash]. once parked I tried to start the car and it wasn't even talking about starting. I popped the hood and checked the oil as I smelt burnt oil. I was *way* under, like below-the-first-dot-low. well I gave it a couple minutes and tried to start it again, this time the starter engaged but it didn't turn over. when my mom came to pick me up off the side of the road she said it sounded like my car was "missing" last night, which leads me to believe it's an ignition problem. I'm also thinking it could be the main relay, as the car would refuse to start occasionally [like one time every 50 times I attempted to start the car], but given 15 minutes it would crank right up. right now the car is in a driveway and it is a very good possibility that I could be towed. I need to get it running as fast as possible, please speak up if you have any ideas!!
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Re: (1dayCivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1dayCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Got Gas? Just a thought. </TD></TR></TABLE>
unfortunately, I just filled up before I went to class. $20.00 for 6.x ******* gallons!!
Ej1_coupe: thanks for the quick reply! I would have already run out and bought a main relay, as I too believe this is the culprit, but that's like what $50? I want to make sure it will bring the car home for that, I'm broke and don't have a credit card.
is there any chance the oil being so low would cause it to not start? lack of pressure maybe?
unfortunately, I just filled up before I went to class. $20.00 for 6.x ******* gallons!!
Ej1_coupe: thanks for the quick reply! I would have already run out and bought a main relay, as I too believe this is the culprit, but that's like what $50? I want to make sure it will bring the car home for that, I'm broke and don't have a credit card.
is there any chance the oil being so low would cause it to not start? lack of pressure maybe?
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Re: (SpydiR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpydiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
is there any chance the oil being so low would cause it to not start? lack of pressure maybe?</TD></TR></TABLE>
not unless the engine is beginning to seize which is very unlikely if you were just below the first dot. I took my old 1.5 far lower than that before (right before swap, and that damn thing burned so much oil...) If I were you, I would check the dizzy for bearing failure or a bad igniter.
is there any chance the oil being so low would cause it to not start? lack of pressure maybe?</TD></TR></TABLE>
not unless the engine is beginning to seize which is very unlikely if you were just below the first dot. I took my old 1.5 far lower than that before (right before swap, and that damn thing burned so much oil...) If I were you, I would check the dizzy for bearing failure or a bad igniter.
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Re: (flood)
would the relay cause the car to sound like it's "missing"? my mom isn't your average female, if she called it out it must be so. plus, I'm deaf so I blast the stereo 100% of the time . also, if it matters, I just swapped the engine a couple months ago, to a jdm sohc vtec. I'm thinking something could very well have crapped out [dizzy, alternator?] as it would not be uncommon for a jdm engine. this is the last post I make before I go buy a relay, assuming everybody tells me to quit bsing with stupid 'what ifs' and just buy the damn part lol. thanks for all the help everybody, it is much appreciated
#9
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Re: (SpydiR)
the relay controls the fuel pump. if the fuel pump shuts off, the car dies/won't start. it won't cause misfires. If it is missing, check your fuel filter, injectors, plugs, wires, dizzy cap + rotor, or as i mentioned before, ignitor or bearing failre.
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Re: (IHateJDM)
that's pretty much exactly what I was looking for I guess. thanks a lot for the help guys, I'm gonna go run out and see if I can't get this hunk of **** working.
#11
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Re: (SpydiR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpydiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would the relay cause the car to sound like it's "missing"? my mom isn't your average female, if she called it out it must be so. </TD></TR></TABLE>
why don't you have your mom fix it then?
why don't you have your mom fix it then?
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Re: (flood)
hey, you're a clever guy there. why are you wasting your talent on honda-tech?
well I bought a new relay and got the car running. it still doesn't want to start right up, but it does crank on the 2nd or 3rd try. I can run through everything else since I got it home, just want to thank everybody that contributed and wasn't a *** about it [not naming names].
well I bought a new relay and got the car running. it still doesn't want to start right up, but it does crank on the 2nd or 3rd try. I can run through everything else since I got it home, just want to thank everybody that contributed and wasn't a *** about it [not naming names].
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Re: (SpydiR)
Sounds to me like you still have a version of the same problem. Check your fuel pressure. When the pump gets weak sometimes it will crank and run sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will take two or three tries. The pump is an electric motor and when they first start to go bad, like most electric motors, they will intermitantly work fine.
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Re: (amckee)
yep, I'm thinking this could be the issue. it just happened to me again about an hour ago. still sweating from pushing the ************ home . I got it to the garage this time so I can get down on it. if you have anything of worth to post, please do!!
if not, **** like FLOOD can suck a ***** dick a sumpin. oh I'm mentioning names this time fa sho. keep your *** out my thread and if I get another PM from you, you're reported. ******* n00b.
if not, **** like FLOOD can suck a ***** dick a sumpin. oh I'm mentioning names this time fa sho. keep your *** out my thread and if I get another PM from you, you're reported. ******* n00b.
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Re: (SpydiR)
Update:
so far I have replaced the main relay, and still having the same problem. I changed the cap and rotor at my dad's request [plus the parts were free ], and threw in a new set of plugs I had in the garage. the problem persists.
also worthy of mention: I swapped an EX cluster in my CX hatch, and for whatever reason the Cruise Control light stays lit 100% of the time until I hit VTEC [sort of a reverse vtec indicator], at which point it turns off.
when the car won't start, I get a solid CEL and the cruise control light does not light up. also, the fuel pump is not priming when this happens. when the car will start, the CEL goes away after a second or two [like a normal startup]; this is when the fuel pump will begin to prime. when the fuel pump is done priming, the cruise control light will turn on and at this point I can start the car. I haven't been able to throw the tester on the pump yet, but when I do updates will follow.
also, if you're here to read/help check out my buddy NeWnMpR0VeD's thread, he's having a similar problem: here
so far I have replaced the main relay, and still having the same problem. I changed the cap and rotor at my dad's request [plus the parts were free ], and threw in a new set of plugs I had in the garage. the problem persists.
also worthy of mention: I swapped an EX cluster in my CX hatch, and for whatever reason the Cruise Control light stays lit 100% of the time until I hit VTEC [sort of a reverse vtec indicator], at which point it turns off.
when the car won't start, I get a solid CEL and the cruise control light does not light up. also, the fuel pump is not priming when this happens. when the car will start, the CEL goes away after a second or two [like a normal startup]; this is when the fuel pump will begin to prime. when the fuel pump is done priming, the cruise control light will turn on and at this point I can start the car. I haven't been able to throw the tester on the pump yet, but when I do updates will follow.
also, if you're here to read/help check out my buddy NeWnMpR0VeD's thread, he's having a similar problem: here
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Re: (SpydiR)
yet another update:
the fuel pump harness reads 12 volts when jumped @ the relay, so the wiring is all good.
conclusion: bad fuel pump
now that I have to replace it, should I go ahead and get the walboro I'll need for my turbo setup? or will it damage other parts of the stock fuel system? obviously need to buy a pump asap, any advice is appreciated
the fuel pump harness reads 12 volts when jumped @ the relay, so the wiring is all good.
conclusion: bad fuel pump
now that I have to replace it, should I go ahead and get the walboro I'll need for my turbo setup? or will it damage other parts of the stock fuel system? obviously need to buy a pump asap, any advice is appreciated
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Re: (SpydiR)
well I went ahead and bought an OEM replacement fuel pump after finding out that a stocker will do me fine to my goal of 200 whp. I got the new pump installed and everything, but I'm still having the SAME EXACT PROBLEM. The only other thing I can think of is the coil, but I'm not certain and I don't have any more money. I'm going to keep searching the archives, but if anyone has had a problem similar to mine, please post before I spend any more money!!!
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Re: Engine Shut Off!! (SpydiR)
If you run your car close to empty a lot it's possible you have sedement in your system. The sedement will clog the screen/filter causing the symptoms that your experiencing.
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Re: Engine Shut Off!! (10secwantabe)
I already replaced the fuel pump and strainer. it is def. not a possibility at this point. thanks for the input though
anyone else? I need to get this POS running!!
anyone else? I need to get this POS running!!
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Re: Engine Shut Off!! (amckee)
I'm pretty sure it's just the main relay, which is new. The harness is fine, I have already tested w/a multimeter. If there is a fuel pump relay, I would really like to know where it is lol
#23
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Re: Engine Shut Off!! (SpydiR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpydiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm pretty sure it's just the main relay, which is new. The harness is fine, I have already tested w/a multimeter. If there is a fuel pump relay, I would really like to know where it is lol </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can test fuel pressure at the banjo bolt to ensure the pump is working and there is enough fuel.
To test spark.
Disconnect a plug wire at the dizzy and hold it close enough to see if there is spark jumping across the gap when you crank it. if no spark could be the honda ignition control module or something simple like that. Those tend to fail in all car makes/models.
there is also a testing procedure for that in the Helms
Modified by flood at 8:21 AM 9/6/2005
You can test fuel pressure at the banjo bolt to ensure the pump is working and there is enough fuel.
To test spark.
Disconnect a plug wire at the dizzy and hold it close enough to see if there is spark jumping across the gap when you crank it. if no spark could be the honda ignition control module or something simple like that. Those tend to fail in all car makes/models.
there is also a testing procedure for that in the Helms
Modified by flood at 8:21 AM 9/6/2005
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Re: Engine Shut Off!! (flood)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flood »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can test fuel pressure at the banjo bolt to ensure the pump is working and there is enough fuel.
To test spark.
Disconnect a plug wire at the dizzy and hold it close enough to see if there is spark jumping across the gap when you crank it. if no spark could be the honda ignition control module or something simple like that. Those tend to fail in all car makes/models.
there is also a testing procedure for that in the Helms</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for participating in a civil manner, it is appreciated
I have fuel pressure and spark, the engine WILL run if conditions are met. when I turn the key, a solid cel comes on untill the fuel pump starts to prime, at which point the cel turns off. when the pump is done priming, the 'cruise control' light turns on [read above], and the car will start every time. otherwise, the solid cel stays on and the fuel pump never primes. the car will crank, but won't turn over. I tried to read the code but it won't throw one, and I can't get it to vatozone in its current condition. I have to get to class and work and stuff, I'm freaking out
To test spark.
Disconnect a plug wire at the dizzy and hold it close enough to see if there is spark jumping across the gap when you crank it. if no spark could be the honda ignition control module or something simple like that. Those tend to fail in all car makes/models.
there is also a testing procedure for that in the Helms</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for participating in a civil manner, it is appreciated
I have fuel pressure and spark, the engine WILL run if conditions are met. when I turn the key, a solid cel comes on untill the fuel pump starts to prime, at which point the cel turns off. when the pump is done priming, the 'cruise control' light turns on [read above], and the car will start every time. otherwise, the solid cel stays on and the fuel pump never primes. the car will crank, but won't turn over. I tried to read the code but it won't throw one, and I can't get it to vatozone in its current condition. I have to get to class and work and stuff, I'm freaking out
#25
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Re: Engine Shut Off!! (SpydiR)
the weak point in the main relay is the solder points. If you think the main relay (even if you replaced it) is causing your problems, re-solder them and you'll have less problems.