datvtec

Hi guys,

Just have a few questions in regards to breaking in my b20b/ b16a eg civic.

I just want to know what engine oil i should use because i've read in the thread 'how to build a reliable b20vtec' to avoid using synthetic oil during break in. But i already coated my pistons and other internals in fully synthetic oil before reading the post.

Why would we want to avoid using synthetic oils during break in/ Is it due to high costs and repeated oil changes? Or will it harm the motor?

Thanks for all the help guys.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You should have used assembly lube and not oil, but it's a little late for that. The problem with most synthetics is the high amount of friction modifiers. Basically, it's TOO slick, and won't let your rings seat correctly. Good break-in oil will actually be more expensive than standard synthetic. Torco, Royal Purple, and Amisol all make good break-in oils with high zinc contents - that's the oil you should be using. Put fresh break-in oil in, start up the car, and let it idle for 5 minutes to reach operating temperature. Change the oil, again filling with break-in oil, and dog the **** out of the motor for 40-50 miles. Change the oil again, again using break-in oil, and drive normally for 500 miles. Now change the oil with whatever you prefer, and your engine is fully broken in and ready to go.

The first 50 miles are critical. You need to keep the engine at high load. This is best accomplished on a dyno, or on a race track. Fail to do so, and the rings will never fully seat, robbing you of power.

datvtec

Thanks for your reply NotARacist. Im in the philippines and ive looked all over town for a good break in oil. Ended up getting Castrol 20w50 due to its 'Mineral base' and being non synthetic. would this oil do the trick?

Just started the engine up for the first time and it sounded like ***. Then the guys that are helping me changed the order of the spark plug wires and it sounded a little better. Ran it for 5 mins and realised the fan wasn't working and some of the fuses blew. So on monday ill have to get more parts for it. WOnt be able to drive it until then. Will it be alright just sitting there with the same oil for a 2 days? will that stuff up the break in procedure.. or should i drain it. any precautions i should take? Sorry if im asking stupid/ obvious questions i just want to make sure i get it right. Appreciate your expert help man

datvtec

It was also idling ridiculously low, whole car was shaking... felt like an earthquake..

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It's all good, we all start somewhere, and break-in is one of the rare few things that isn't covered in the FAQ's sticky. I'll talk to someone about fixing that in the future.

I don't know about that specific oil, but you definitely want something with a very high zinc content. 20W50 is also WAY too thick, and might keep your rings from properly seating. I know that two of the three companies I mentioned offer direct purchase and shipping - it would be a good idea to visit their websites and see if they can ship to you.

As for changing the oil after 2 days, did you get to the "dog the **** out of it for 50 miles" part of break-in, or did you just let it idle? If you just let it idle, did it reach operating temperature? If it didn't reach operating temp, you don't need to change the oil yet. If it did reach operating temperature, or if you successfully dogged it for 50 miles, definitely change the oil.

As for the low idle, you should do the idle set procedure. That is listed in the FAQ's sticky. Here's the page from the factory service manual.