engine from d13b to b16b
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Re: engine from d13b to b16b (li_vladislav)
You're going to have to be a little more specific about what vehicle this is going into and all that.
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Re: engine from d13b to b16b (. a d a m)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by . a d a m »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're going to have to be a little more specific about what vehicle this is going into and all that. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Think the D13b is the carbed 1.3 in the CRX's...don't quote me on that though, anyways, assuming it's USDM, it's an OBD-0 setup, if it's euro then it's possible for OBD-I, but I'm pretty sure all teh 1.3's over here were obd-0.
Anyways, it's pretty irrelevant, I'm sure you can figure out what OBD you have by what year ur car is.
Engine's a straight drop in, no problems. Just get the B series mounts and axles and everything'll bolt right up.
As far as wires go, just get an OBD-I or II (whatever year ur B16 is) dizzy, throw the guts of ur current dizzy in a dizzy the same OBD as ur B16, or gut the plug off an OBD-0 car, and match the wires to the plug on the dizzy (that's what I would do, wiring diagrams are all over the place, only 6 of them to the plug).
Then just throw OBD-0 injectors on it and an OBD-0 > OBD-I or OBD-II (depending on what year B16 you have) conversion harness, the ECU will plug right in, and you'll be ready to roll.
That might seem like a lot b/c I suck at condensing things, but it's really not.
- B series axles 'n mounts (off of any car w/ a B series in it)
- ECU OBD-0 to OBD-I or OBD-IIb conversion harness
- Rewire dizzy plug or get an OBD-0 dizzy
- Get OBD-0 injectors (you might be able to rewire them, never looked into it)
Everything will bolt right in and should work fine.
Though for the shift linkage, I'm not sure, somebody else that knows about that can tell ya .
Think the D13b is the carbed 1.3 in the CRX's...don't quote me on that though, anyways, assuming it's USDM, it's an OBD-0 setup, if it's euro then it's possible for OBD-I, but I'm pretty sure all teh 1.3's over here were obd-0.
Anyways, it's pretty irrelevant, I'm sure you can figure out what OBD you have by what year ur car is.
Engine's a straight drop in, no problems. Just get the B series mounts and axles and everything'll bolt right up.
As far as wires go, just get an OBD-I or II (whatever year ur B16 is) dizzy, throw the guts of ur current dizzy in a dizzy the same OBD as ur B16, or gut the plug off an OBD-0 car, and match the wires to the plug on the dizzy (that's what I would do, wiring diagrams are all over the place, only 6 of them to the plug).
Then just throw OBD-0 injectors on it and an OBD-0 > OBD-I or OBD-II (depending on what year B16 you have) conversion harness, the ECU will plug right in, and you'll be ready to roll.
That might seem like a lot b/c I suck at condensing things, but it's really not.
- B series axles 'n mounts (off of any car w/ a B series in it)
- ECU OBD-0 to OBD-I or OBD-IIb conversion harness
- Rewire dizzy plug or get an OBD-0 dizzy
- Get OBD-0 injectors (you might be able to rewire them, never looked into it)
Everything will bolt right in and should work fine.
Though for the shift linkage, I'm not sure, somebody else that knows about that can tell ya .
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Re: engine from d13b to b16b (Syndacate)
If you're going to pay X dollars for a b16b, why not just get a b18c1 or c5?
Much better motor's IMO.
I know it's a crx and the install is easier with a b16. But whatever floats your but. Just IMO.
Much better motor's IMO.
I know it's a crx and the install is easier with a b16. But whatever floats your but. Just IMO.
#5
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Re: engine from d13b to b16b (ek forever guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're going to pay X dollars for a b16b, why not just get a b18c1 or c5?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oddly enough i think it might be the price that people overseas choose the B16B over other engines. Reason for that is they actually have the type R and dont have to import it like we do saving alot of money. Thats my guess.
I thought the D13 also came in early 92-95 hatches, but i could be wrong.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oddly enough i think it might be the price that people overseas choose the B16B over other engines. Reason for that is they actually have the type R and dont have to import it like we do saving alot of money. Thats my guess.
I thought the D13 also came in early 92-95 hatches, but i could be wrong.
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Re: engine from d13b to b16b (Luserkid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I thought the D13 also came in early 92-95 hatches, but i could be wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It did, not in the US market, but it did in Japan for sure, and perhaps Europe as well if I am not mistaken.
It seems to me that ITR parts from other markets are more plentiful than CTR parts are,
and are much cheaper because of that. Why there is more ITR stuff on the market I don't know, probably because the CTR is not offered in as many markets as the ITR, but if anyone else has a better explanation I'd like to hear it.
I thought the D13 also came in early 92-95 hatches, but i could be wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It did, not in the US market, but it did in Japan for sure, and perhaps Europe as well if I am not mistaken.
It seems to me that ITR parts from other markets are more plentiful than CTR parts are,
and are much cheaper because of that. Why there is more ITR stuff on the market I don't know, probably because the CTR is not offered in as many markets as the ITR, but if anyone else has a better explanation I'd like to hear it.
#7
Re: engine from d13b to b16b (ek forever guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're going to pay X dollars for a b16b, why not just get a b18c1 or c5?
Much better motor's IMO.
I know it's a crx and the install is easier with a b16. But whatever floats your but. Just IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes true, but they probably have B16Bs for a cheaper price so if you can do that then go ahead.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by . a d a m »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It did, not in the US market, but it did in Japan for sure, and perhaps Europe as well if I am not mistaken.
It seems to me that ITR parts from other markets are more plentiful than CTR parts are,
and are much cheaper because of that. Why there is more ITR stuff on the market I don't know, probably because the CTR is not offered in as many markets as the ITR, but if anyone else has a better explanation I'd like to hear it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it did,the D13B1 came in the 1987-1991 civic DX in europe and the D13B2 came in the 1992-1995 civic DX in europe also.
Much better motor's IMO.
I know it's a crx and the install is easier with a b16. But whatever floats your but. Just IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes true, but they probably have B16Bs for a cheaper price so if you can do that then go ahead.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by . a d a m »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It did, not in the US market, but it did in Japan for sure, and perhaps Europe as well if I am not mistaken.
It seems to me that ITR parts from other markets are more plentiful than CTR parts are,
and are much cheaper because of that. Why there is more ITR stuff on the market I don't know, probably because the CTR is not offered in as many markets as the ITR, but if anyone else has a better explanation I'd like to hear it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it did,the D13B1 came in the 1987-1991 civic DX in europe and the D13B2 came in the 1992-1995 civic DX in europe also.
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#8
Re: engine from d13b to b16b (li_vladislav)
I have done this exact swap.
Firstly Pray to God before you start, this swap is not an easy one.
You will need to convert from Carb to Injection also.
It isn't as straight forward as people are making it out to be.
As well as all the usual hardware Engine, Gearbox, mounts, shift linkages driveshafts etc... You will need :-
-1.6 fuel tank (Electric fuel pump type, maybe others will work), as the Carb 1.3 comes with a manual fuel pump that runs off the crank.
-Fuel pump and Main relay wiring
-Fuel lines
-Fuel filter (Electric pump type mounts on the firewall)
-Main Relay (You can probably wire the fuel pump direct, it is for safety)
-Wiring loom from Main relay to fuse box to ECU (The whole loom would be more helpful but you can just extend and pin the wires required.
-ECU including wires to Engine bay (Because you are going to need 80-90 % of this loom you might as well get the whole loom it will save you a lot of wiring)
-Engine loom with all sensors including map sensor and Injectors
The above wiring can be wired up direct, but it will take a lot longer and there is a lot of wiring to do.
If you are still interested in doing the swap write back with any questions I will help as best as I can. If you don't like wiring then I would get the looms straight out of the car whole.
I must have spent longer on the wiring than the swap
It is much more difficult than most conversions as the extra work involved.
Firstly Pray to God before you start, this swap is not an easy one.
You will need to convert from Carb to Injection also.
It isn't as straight forward as people are making it out to be.
As well as all the usual hardware Engine, Gearbox, mounts, shift linkages driveshafts etc... You will need :-
-1.6 fuel tank (Electric fuel pump type, maybe others will work), as the Carb 1.3 comes with a manual fuel pump that runs off the crank.
-Fuel pump and Main relay wiring
-Fuel lines
-Fuel filter (Electric pump type mounts on the firewall)
-Main Relay (You can probably wire the fuel pump direct, it is for safety)
-Wiring loom from Main relay to fuse box to ECU (The whole loom would be more helpful but you can just extend and pin the wires required.
-ECU including wires to Engine bay (Because you are going to need 80-90 % of this loom you might as well get the whole loom it will save you a lot of wiring)
-Engine loom with all sensors including map sensor and Injectors
The above wiring can be wired up direct, but it will take a lot longer and there is a lot of wiring to do.
If you are still interested in doing the swap write back with any questions I will help as best as I can. If you don't like wiring then I would get the looms straight out of the car whole.
I must have spent longer on the wiring than the swap
It is much more difficult than most conversions as the extra work involved.
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