Engine acting up again
#1
Engine acting up again
So last night I was taking a turn, put it in 2nd gear, gave it gas and then all of a sudden the car yanked, and the idle slowly started to drop down to 400 rpms. When I tried to give it gas, it was barely responding. I'd give it gas, but it would only rev up to 2000 and then just not respond. I pulled over to a parking lot, and when I tried to start the car, it'll start up, then the idle drops and then engine cuts off. Anyone know what the problem could be?
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Re: (ocks)
well if you should hear a click when you turn the key to start the car..normall the click comes from the rear under the back seats or in that general area. ify fou hear the click, i would say your fuel pump is gettin power
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Re: (00CivicGirl)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00CivicGirl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well if you should hear a click when you turn the key to start the car..normall the click comes from the rear under the back seats or in that general area. ify fou hear the click, i would say your fuel pump is gettin power</TD></TR></TABLE>
What?
When you turn your key to accessory.. You should hear a 'humming' come from your backseats. Try to have someone turn your key, while you put your hear to your backseats. If you hear the humming, that means your fuel pump is priming and working correctly.
What?
When you turn your key to accessory.. You should hear a 'humming' come from your backseats. Try to have someone turn your key, while you put your hear to your backseats. If you hear the humming, that means your fuel pump is priming and working correctly.
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Re: (JDM-EJ1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What?
When you turn your key to accessory.. You should hear a 'humming' come from your backseats. Try to have someone turn your key, while you put your hear to your backseats. If you hear the humming, that means your fuel pump is priming and working correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
humming, clicking whatever..ive done it before when our old eg wouldnt start but mine gets wacked out at work to even type it right
but yea its a humming noise not a clicking sorry
What?
When you turn your key to accessory.. You should hear a 'humming' come from your backseats. Try to have someone turn your key, while you put your hear to your backseats. If you hear the humming, that means your fuel pump is priming and working correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
humming, clicking whatever..ive done it before when our old eg wouldnt start but mine gets wacked out at work to even type it right
but yea its a humming noise not a clicking sorry
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Re: (ocks)
u said the cap and rotor were replaced 2 weeks ago, what about the ignition coil? do you have any friends with the same motor as you? if so, see if they will let you borrow their dizzy and swap em out and see if it works then
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Re: (00CivicGirl)
Timing belt could have jumped a tooth. This could explain why the motor still starts but dies, and why after the "jerk" you couldn't get anything above 2K rpm..
Just by reading this...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ocks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><<< I'm a straight noob. I have no idea how I'd go and check the fuel pump. Where do I start?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Take it to a shop..
Just by reading this...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ocks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><<< I'm a straight noob. I have no idea how I'd go and check the fuel pump. Where do I start?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Take it to a shop..
#15
The car did this before and I took it to a mechanic that was a friend of a friend. He replaced the cap and rotor and it then ran fine for him. That was two weeks ago, and now I'm back to where I started. But now I got no money for a mechanic. I was hoping it was a easy fix, the hard part was just pinpointing the problem.
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Re: (ocks)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ocks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car did this before and I took it to a mechanic that was a friend of a friend. He replaced the cap and rotor and it then ran fine for him. That was two weeks ago, and now I'm back to where I started. But now I got no money for a mechanic. I was hoping it was a easy fix, the hard part was just pinpointing the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah thats odd that it would work for 2 weeks and just fail again. Either the parts failed again or that wasn't a complete fix of the problem. So I doubt it will be the easy fix you were hoping for.. It could be anything from the ignition control module to the ECU. Your fuel pump is priming so thats good. I'm thinking its gotta be somewhere in the distributor. Ignition control module, crankshaft position sensor, top dead center sensor, cylinder position sensor. I would say find a buddy that you could borrow a distributor from to see if replacing something in the dist. fixes the problem. But whatever it is it will take some $ to fix when it comes down to it..
#17
Re: (HondaFanatic708)
Man.. well that sucks. Is there any conflicts when putting a gsr distributor onto a B16? Thats probably the only thing I bum from a friend. Oh and by the way, I really do appreciate everyone's knowledge and help.
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Re: (ocks)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ocks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Man.. well that sucks. Is there any conflicts when putting a gsr distributor onto a B16? Thats probably the only thing I bum from a friend. Oh and by the way, I really do appreciate everyone's knowledge and help.</TD></TR></TABLE>No conflicts as long as they are both the same OBD. Otherwise the connectors don't match up..
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