todaspecsi

The weather held up for a little bit here in northwest thankfully so a few of us went dont to the track. i only got two runs in but here they are. What a dissappointment.....

r/t - .073
60' - 2.663
330 - 6.844
1/8 - 10.189
MPH - 73.61
1000 - 13.076
1/4 - 15.480
MPH - 95.01

r/t - (-.038) ...got a lil anxious haha
60' - 2.582
330 - 6.764
1/8 - 10.127
MPH - 72.43
1000 - 13.041
1/4 - 15.48
MPH - 91.59

That was the first time I have raced at the track, I'm soo dissappointed but fortunately there is tons of room for improvement. From what people have said I heard a 2.6 60 foot is just pathetic. 2.2 is ideal, and I've also heard your reaction time doesn't matter. Everyone at the track says it does, I'm confused about that. But please post suggestions to improve.

I didn't lower my tire pressure. I have full GAB suspension with 4 way in the front and 8 in the back. I ran with the front set at 2 and the rear at 7. All I took out was my spare tire because I wanted to run what I would on the street.

Any suggestions on how not to wheel hop? I can't avoid wheel hoping and it KILLS me!


Modified by todaspecsi at 11:12 PM 4/18/2004

BauleyCivic

15.4 isnt a bad time what are your mods? that 95mph trap speed indicates mid-high 14's.

Ricey McRicerton

A 2.6 60 time does suck, but it's your first track time, practice makes perfect. A 2.2 is much closer to ideal on street tires.

Your r/t means nothing unless you are bracket racing. You could sit at the light for 10 seconds and then still run a 15.4.

With that said, those are pretty damn good times for having such a high 60 time. You said you have the suspension, but what else is done? And what kind of tires was this on?

todaspecsi

I was using Toyo Proxe 4s (about three weeks old, tons of tread). They were set to I believe around 32-35 psi. I'm hesitant to lower the pressure because I don't know how long you can go with them. Below are a list of engine mods.

J's Racing C.F. intake
Toda Spec B cams
Toda dual valve springs
Portflow retainers
Toda cam gears set at (0,0) right now
ITR header
Tanabe exhaust
Jun flywheel
Clutchmaster stage 3 clutch
GSR tranny
^---the guy I bought the car off had the GSR tranny put on for the longer
gears I wish I had the b16 tranny
MSD SCI ignition
BM fuel reg set at 30 psi
VAFC (7k vtec)
p28 Mugen chipped ecu

...and it's not tuned

Also, the car weighs 2360 with me (not sure how full the gas tank was). There is no A/C, no power steering and the tacky glue/tar was taken out under the carpet. No interior in the trunk or spare.

skip.two

well you need to work on those 60's. i think you should have ran 22-25psi on your tires. i'd guess around 14.7's with your mods.

project_hatch1.8

damn itsnt 7k a lil high for ur vtec engaugement? whats ur redline at? gsr trannies are ok but not so good with n/a b16. tunning can make a world of difference, and id expect to run not so good times goin to the track for the first time.

skip.two

just noticed that. why do you have your VTEC engage at 7000rpms? they should be engaging at originally, 5200 i think? somewhere around there. have it engage at 4500rpms.

todaspecsi

With those cams, I heard 7k is optimal for vtec engaugement. Redline is at 10 but I shift around 8400. My hp drops around 8100.

Has anyone here played with Toda cam gears. I don't know anything about adjusting them accept it should be done on the dyno. Any suggestions or advice is welcome.

Brandon EM1

What altitude are you racing at?

slammed_93_hatch

if your racing purelly against the clock and not bracket racing RT has nothing to do with your ET. but when bracket race it does give you an advantage over your apponite. some thing that is not illegal but is certantly looked down upon is deep stageing. it helps you get down the track further but also increases your chances of redlighting

todaspecsi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brandon EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What altitude are you racing at?</TD></TR></TABLE>

......I'm not sure, It's at Seattle Pacific Raceway though.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your racing purelly against the clock and not bracket racing RT has nothing to do with your ET. but when bracket race it does give you an advantage over your apponite. some thing that is not illegal but is certantly looked down upon is deep stageing. it helps you get down the track further but also increases your chances of redlighting</TD></TR></TABLE>

My supervisor was telling me about deep staging. Isn't it when you kinda creep on the last sensor so your front of the tire is past the sensor but the rear of the front tire is still within the sensored area? That's my understanding of what deep staging is.

B16Drag

7k for vtec engagement is DAMN high unless it is tuned. You're basically telling me you are in vtec for about 1.5k rpms... whats the point of the vtec? Unless it was TUNED at 7k then leave it but if it was one of those "I heard it was good at 7k" drop it back down to 5.5k

Lower ur vtec engagement to 4.5-5k. Stock for B16 is around 5.5k

also juts curious, why is ur fuel regulator set at 30psi? I thought stock was around 42psi? i dont remember exactly so someone might want to correct me but I thought it was higher than 30psi for the fuel rail pressure

AnitRiceSuperStar

what were the other cars and what did they run?

skip.two

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AnitRiceSuperStar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what were the other cars and what did they run?</TD></TR></TABLE>
irrelevant

set your vtec to 4500. as b16drag said, if you want it to engage at 7000, have your car tuned for vtec to engage at 7000.

slammed_93_hatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by todaspecsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My supervisor was telling me about deep staging. Isn't it when you kinda creep on the last sensor so your front of the tire is past the sensor but the rear of the front tire is still within the sensored area? That's my understanding of what deep staging is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think so im kinda iff on it. ill explain it alil better


the first stagging light goes off when your tire hit the first beam, the second light is triggered when your tires break the second light. right there is where most people stop. deap stageing is were you keep rolling and dissengage the first light. which doesn't set anything off but sometimes it gives you "enough" of a headstart to win you oppenant (when racing to who gets to the 1320 foot mark first).

but there is a down side to this that occurs in cars that have problems with tractions. because deepstaging will start the clock sooner then your opponant (if you left at the ExACT same time), now if you have trouble with tracktion techniclly you don't want to deepstage becuase it starts the clock quicker and you still might be spining the tires. see when you barely engage that second light there is some time that your tires spin you don't move or move very little, then engage the clock. if you had deepstaged then you would have spun those tires and not move or moved slower and the clock would have been started.

now things like these really don't matter to cars like ares or braket racing but getting a good RT does give you an advantage in braket racing, well at least in professional racing

todaspecsi

Its been tuned for 7k but I haven't tuned my car sinse I've put on the MSD or put on my Toda timing belt. (don't know if that made a difference). Also, I never checked my timing after I changed the belt. HAHA never had time.

slammed_93_hatch - thank you for the explanation. I didn't think it'd make a differnce in time. Any suggestions on how to get rid of wheel hoping. And no one please say "LSD duh" because it's kinda spendy

It's set at 32 psi because that is the suggested fuel pressure for the cams, from what I've heard. We all know things change with the 'I heard from this person' story though. So I'm not positive.

sohcvtec1995

the best way to get rid of wheel hop imo is just deflating the tires, or getting some really good tires. Or just get slicks Also since you have a adjustable suspension justplay with your settings untill you see a difference. But just keep up the good work.

todaspecsi

I will definately try it. I just bought the rims so I purchased Toyo Proxe 4s with them. To my understanding, they were really good tires but I'm not sure now?

I put the suspension tight in the back and loose in the front. I'm going to try and loosen it a little more in the front and see how that goes. Thank you for the advice.

I love H-T, I should say my Honda family

skip.two

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by todaspecsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will definately try it. I just bought the rims so I purchased Toyo Proxe 4s with them. To my understanding, they were really good tires but I'm not sure now? </TD></TR></TABLE>
just lower the psi on your tires. around 22psi.

todaspecsi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jL iLLuZiOnz 9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
just lower the psi on your tires. around 22psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>

will do...

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by todaspecsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was using Toyo Proxe 4s (about three weeks old, tons of tread). They were set to I believe around 32-35 psi. I'm hesitant to lower the pressure because I don't know how long you can go with them. Below are a list of engine mods.

J's Racing C.F. intake
Toda Spec B cams
Toda dual valve springs
Portflow retainers
Toda cam gears set at (0,0) right now
ITR header
Tanabe exhaust
Jun flywheel
Clutchmaster stage 3 clutch
GSR tranny
^---the guy I bought the car off had the GSR tranny put on for the longer
gears I wish I had the b16 tranny
MSD SCI ignition
BM fuel reg set at 30 psi
VAFC (7k vtec)
p28 Mugen chipped ecu

...and it's not tuned

Also, the car weighs 2360 with me (not sure how full the gas tank was). There is no A/C, no power steering and the tacky glue/tar was taken out under the carpet. No interior in the trunk or spare.</TD></TR></TABLE>

..all that stuff

damn i'm glad i didnt go b-series

All i have is i/h/e on my d16z6 in my 92 si hatch

My best time is in my signature

Suggestions:

Lower tire pressure to like 18-20 lbs
Launch at like 4000-4500 rpms and feather the clutch out

todaspecsi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Usdmdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

..all that stuff

damn i'm glad i didnt go b-series

All i have is i/h/e on my d16z6 in my 92 si hatch

My best time is in my signature

Suggestions:

Lower tire pressure to like 18-20 lbs
Launch at like 4000-4500 rpms and feather the clutch out

</TD></TR></TABLE>

A racer can have all the parts in the world, but if they aren't tuned it don't matter. Wait till I get some mild tuning and a few more runs, then you'll have wet dreams about DOHC VTec bro.

todaspecsi

JerseySiPOS's reason for 7k vtec xover -

as far as the changeover, like i said couple ppl with similar setup as mine and stock block set their changeover at 7000 since the primary made more power than vtec lobe up to that point.


.... a local shop here in the northwest said that if i had the DEFI system and set the vtec to 10k, the primary lobe would still make more power than the vtec lobe

slammed_93_hatch

there is a really good thread in the ITR forum that talks about launchs and how to get really good at them. basiclly you need to modulate the clutch not the gas. and for wheel traction bars are really great they are kinda expensive (around 300, id go jimfab or full-race). those well help alot and along with practice. i know this sounds stupid but practice is the only real way to get good, and produce good times, with out slick. slick's make everything a whole lot easier on the launching end but you can also brake alot more parts. id say get a good 15-20 runs under your belt and make sure to try and change only 1 or two thing and do it for 2 or 3 runs, that way you can eliminate whats causeing shitty launch quicker

another thing for wheel hope try stiffing up the struts alil, that might help and it should let the tire work better also.

one more thing get some jimfab tq mounts or some inserts (i suggest the jim fabmounts those inserts blow ***) but that will also help cut down on wheel hop

todaspecsi

I have mount inserts. They are all in accept for the rear one, think thats causing a problem?