SPUNKYMUNKY

Okay can somebody help me? my engine code is d15b, the year the block was made was 97, chassis plate says e-ek3, type ri? which i thought was vtec, but i dont think it is, ive looked up wiki and google and am still lost, only thing i found was that it could be the non vtec d15b with same head as d16y7? ive posted a picture too i thought d15b was vtec? can i get a 3 stage vtec head and ecu and it will be vtec, if its not already? i cant see any vtec solenoids either?
Sorry about the nooby questions?

SPUNKYMUNKY

It also has the catalytic converter in the manifold?

Animefun

iTrader: (1)

If it's an EK3 it should have an D15Z6 engine, EDM only!

SPUNKYMUNKY

Even though its a jap import? :/

Animefun

iTrader: (1)

Also, just look on the front of the engine block, it says D15-something in the upper left corner. Just under the Water outlet!
That's your engine name

SPUNKYMUNKY

It says D15b, nothing after it?

Animefun

iTrader: (1)

Then it should be a 3-stage VTEC, running 128hp if it has had an recent tune up
Remove weight and stiffen it and you got a awesome ride!

But on further searching i'm seeing some problems.. You have a weird intake manifold instead of the bigger and more performance friendly intake, as a standard D15B should have!
The JDM D15B should look like any other VTEC D-engine, not like a old D15 that came standard in the EG models..

SPUNKYMUNKY

this is why im confused? :/ also the fact that i cannot find any vtec solenoids? thanks for the reply too

axis11

You have a JDM D15B non-vtec. The D15B came in 3 versions, non-vtec,single vtec and dual vtec commonly termed 3-stage vtec. Dont believe everything you see on WIKI. If you have driven other d15, you would know the difference. Yes you can do a head swap with all the related task to get vtec. But in my opinion, its not worth the effort for the power gain you get but you will increase fuel economy. In other D15 models it might be worth it. If you want real power, do an engine swap or turbo. What ECU do you have?

SPUNKYMUNKY

Thats a ***** ecu says 37820-p2c-j63 ? so what would i need to convert to vtec

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

He told you. A VTEC head and a VTEC ECU.

jbpnoman

Either the D15B vtec head, or the D15B 3 stage vtec head (for fuel efficiency, not performance), and the matching ECU would be simplest. P28 ECUs (the matching ECU for the D15B vtec) are a dime a dozen, but the D15B vtec head is a Japan exclusive, so it might be harder to find.

Alternatively, you could swap in a D16Y8 vtec motor from the same year range. 96-98 = OBD2A, 99-00 = OBD2B. Get a motor from the same year range with the matching ECU, and it will be direct plug and play and will give you vtec.

axis11

If you want to have vtec, it will we more complicated than what USDM models need. You will have to change the ecu and cylinder head as stated earlier. The P2C uses a different harness from the vtec models so you will have to change it as well.Intake and exhaust manifold and attached sensors+ ,distributor . Now the new ECU will throw lots of trouble codes because your engine doesnt have a lot of sensors.The P2C doesnt look for them but the vtec ECU will.

does your ecu look like this?

SPUNKYMUNKY

Yeah my ecu does look like that, only 2 plugs? so if i come across a 1.5 vtec, i can literally take the head and ecu, will i need any wires? as my ecu is 2 plugs, and arent vtecs 3 plugs? also whats the difference between obd1 and my ecu? Sorry again for being a noob and thanks for the help

jbpnoman

axis11 is correct, I was wrong. I forgot that motor uses a weird wiring setup. The "easiest" way to do it would be to get the head, ECU, and wiring harness from a D15B vtec model, but once again, that particular engine was Japan-specific. Also, as axis11 said, you will throw a few CELs for sensors that your current setup doesn't look for unless you install those as well.

With the amount of work involved in that, you might as well swap in any other OBD1 motor. Full swap, meaning motor (block and head), wiring harness, and ECU. A complete D16Z6 swap would probably be much easier for you to find than a D15B vtec. Either way, you'll need to either replace the full harness, or hack it to hell and back to make it work correctly. Used harnesses are fairly easy to come by. You can also buy a brand new OEM harness for ~$350, or get an upgraded custom harness from Rywire, ready to tuck, for ~$600 starting.

SPUNKYMUNKY

Okay so what would i need for a turbo build?

jbpnoman

You would need to read the stickies.

Manifold, turbo, downpipe, oil feed and return lines, upgraded clutch, and an ECU tuning option are the absolute bare necessities. It is also highly recommended to upgrade injectors and fuel pump, and replace your spark plugs with more turbo-friendly plugs.

In all seriousness, though, there is a huge section of these forums dedicated to FI. There is also a large section of the FAQs in this section dedicated to it. Start reading. There is a lot to learn before you even consider boosting your car.

SPUNKYMUNKY

Thanks for the reply, i found some threads alright it will be a while before i could afford to boost my car too ill start saving though

jbpnoman

Yep, gotta save up and do it right the first time. Two simple sayings cover it pretty well.

Save a penny now, spend a dollar later.

Cheap, fast, reliable. You can only have two.

SPUNKYMUNKY

What are the ebay turbo kits like? ive heard people say ebay headers etc have bad fitments sometimes? for example this kit? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-2000-Ho...20929a&vxp=mtr

axis11

Aside from the list mentioned earlier, you would need to change the ecu and harness as well. I've searched and it seems the P2C is not tunable.

Take a pics to see if it has a slot for a tuning chip or is it like the one below.


http://www.hamotorsports.com/socketedp72.html

jbpnoman

They're ****, they won't come with half the parts you need, and the turbo will take a **** on you.

SPUNKYMUNKY

could you send me something thats is reliable, and the cheapest? so the cheapest reliable one? haha

SPUNKYMUNKY

Ill take a look at my ecu soon too

jbpnoman

The cheapest option I would personally trust would be to piece together something yourself. I've already given you a list of what you need. I managed to get my turbo together for right around $1500, but I got lucky on a turbo/mani/downpipe combination. You should have at least $2000 set aside for a turbo project.