isaacson06

ok so i got a b20z with a b18 head and its turboed in a ek hatch and i was wondering what radator do you guys use cuz i got the stock y7 one and i have had the motor in for about 2 months and havent had problems with overheating and i put my turbo on a week ago and it runs great on 6psi (no head studs yet) well i tuned it and its all good runing 1* per pound of boost well i took it out last night i did 2 pulls only tell 3rd gear and then i went home parked in the drive way and let it ide for about 3 mins and the fan came on and then temp started going up so i reved it a little and it went back down so i waited tell it cooled down cuz i was thinking low coolent so i took the cap off and toped it off and it didnt take much so i let it be and went to bed i got up this morning and drove around (6-9 miles) and nothing it was fine ???? but i havnt got into boost cuz im scraed it mite overheat again guys got any ideas????

(and its tuned on crome 450cc injectors and the a/f is 10.8 just keeping it rich for now b20 weak sleeves lolol)

95ProjectEJ1

iTrader: (5)

I would go with any radiator from Fluidyne or Koyo if you have the cash and HASTE if you have the cash and want to experiment with a Tri-core radiator.

Maybe Mishimoto also. There are a bunch of places in the sponsor marketplace that sell radiators. I know RSmachine has an aluminum one as well. GL

Probot

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would go with any radiator from Fluidyne or Koyo if you have the cash and HASTE if you have the cash and want to experiment with a Tri-core radiator.

Maybe Mishimoto also. There are a bunch of places in the sponsor marketplace that sell radiators. I know RSmachine has an aluminum one as well. GL
</TD></TR></TABLE>


that and look into your thermostat and water pump...could be that too..but replace radiator first.

95ProjectEJ1

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Probot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


that and look into your thermostat and water pump...could be that too..but replace radiator first.</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^ yeah for sure.

You can also look into a spoon thermostat/thermoswitch combo, which will activate the fan at a lower temp. It is however, pretty pricey. I think I say the t-stat go for like 50-70 (around there)

chuisek9

why don't you put the fan direct simple!!

Probot

holy ninja reply - was going to edit what i said but you completely flash gordon replied

jonathan13

i have no knowledge about replacing a water pump because i never have.. dumb me anyway i have done many other things and it seems to me that it could be your water pump. it would make since if when you revved it up it cooled off. ok think about it like this. the water pump is belt driven and when idling the belt is rotating slower. when you rev up the belt moves faster and spins the gear on the pump faster. so your water pump may not be working right at idle.. but then again it was fine the next day without getting into boost. so thats just my two cents. good luck. id get it into boost near your house that way if it does overheat your right by the crib and can take it home before damage is done but the only way of knowing if you still have a problem is trying to hit boost.

Probot

eh, yes and no - i had a 91 accord and my water pump impeller went bad..so the car heated up and it was pretty much the same problem..but after i got it fixed it started doing it again...turned out to be the thermostat...got a new one and popped it in and then no more heating issues

sheekdude

iTrader: (1)

Dude... just tune up your car! When doing a swap, you always change your timing belt, water pump and thermostat depending on mileage or if you get a motor that you aren't sure about.

Secondly, if you running a turbo you should at least have an aluminum radiator for safety or 92-95 ex one... My 2c.

isaacson06

well i got the motor and it was out of a 2000 crv and it was low miles so all i did was put a t-belt on and i check the water pump and it moved smooth and free what i came up with is i think it could be the t-stat cuz it still has the crv one in it and the crv's had full size radators so i think if a get the 92-95 auto rad cuz its like a 3 core it would do fine what you guys think?

isaacson06

bump

Probot

no offense but what are you bumping for?? we told you a bunch of things to look for check/replace...do those (better rad than oem, new waterpump, t-belt, and thermostat)...and then bump...its tough to give a real answer too since the parts on the swap arent BRAND NEW ya know??

gl dude

95ProjectEJ1

iTrader: (5)

w/e you decide to do, be sure that you dont get rolled. If they send you to BAR with that B20 you are going to be in a world of hurt.

Probot

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">w/e you decide to do, be sure that you dont get rolled. If they send you to BAR with that B20 you are going to be in a world of hurt. </TD></TR></TABLE>


god cali sucks - i wanted to move out there but now i dont think i want to just cause car laws suck

jonathan13

start with the cheapest solution and go up in price from there

StreetRacinThug

Thermostat from Advance for $15 FTMFW!