Nooch

Okay my girlfriend bought this car last year, it's driven fine with minor overheating problems (overheated once (not redlined) while we owned it and i bled, refilled, burped the radiator and it was fine after). The previous owner blew the headgasket according to the receipts we have from the automotive shop that worked on it. This is what is listed on the receipts as what was done:

"Send head to machine shop, new thread inserts for all head bolts, replace waterpump, headgasket set, new thermostat."

When I bled the coolant I also replaced the thermostat, and to my dismay there WASN'T one in there. I put one in and it drove fine. The other day I drove it, pushed it about 85-90mph (at most) and now it wants to overheat again.

I replaced the radiator cap and added coolant, no overheating yet but it's been only 1 drive for about 4 miles, not pushing it hard. I honestly don't believe the shop did the work they said they did. Also the inside of the radiator looks like someone ground up sesame seeds near the top of the first vents inside of it. (not all the way up to the filler neck but to the first vents, obviously can't see below that so don't know how bad it is.)

Also at startup it sounds like this, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=API_ppga74s , [note this is NOT me], like there's rattling inside of the valve cover. Guessing this is common? Only happens when at startup, once it's warmed up then you may here it at a red light every few stops at most.

The radiator is halfsize, vehicle is equipped with a/c and p/s as well as being an automatic.
Problem occurs whether a/c is on or off and no matter what temperature outside.

Is my only solution now to just replace the radiator or what?

Nooch

I need this fixed basically today, so if people can list some idea's that'd be great.

Any radiator flushes I can do? Additives to help break down the crap?

motegicivic

Well, the no thermostat, means they were hiding the overheating.

Does it overheat all the time after driving....... or only at idle?

If there is junk in the radiator might have to be replaced you can get an aftermarket one for 80 bucks or so.

Nooch

Thats what I was thinking. It wants to overheat at idle. The air blowing past it once it hits about 40mph makes the gauge drop to about normal. How do I test the fan switch? I know the fan works when directly hooked to power (battery). But I'm not sure about the switch by the thermostat for it. Unless that's just the sender unit for the gauge cluster. Looks like brass/cooper screw going into thermostat.

Also is there a relay for the rad fan? What's the relay name? And how do I test that? I have dvom's.

motegicivic

The fan switch is on the thermo housing, unplug it, take a paper clip bend like a "U" put one side in each hole of the unside of the plug. Go turn the key to the number 2 position and see if it comes on.

So it only overheats at idle? So when you drive it is fine then?

Nooch

Yeah. I'm gonna go test the switch.

Edit: It's also not everytime at idle, usually after the freeway.

I don't think it's the headgasket either because I literally just got it smogged last week and it passed the first time.

Nooch

The switch works (tested the female socket portion of it). Is there a way to make sure the sender male end is working?


Edit: If the switch makes the fan go on does that mean the relay for it is good as well? Figure it should right? (Note: I suck at electrical)

motegicivic

If you did the test the relay is fine then you got power to the harness.

No tech way to test the switch itself (male)

When it starts to overheat say at idle listen to see if the fan does indeed come on.

Nooch

Alright will do. Anything else will end up with it needing a new radiator I'm guessing.


Just to stay ahead of the curve, anyone recommend a radiator brand that has the tranny oil cooler & half size that'll fit with a/c?

motegicivic

Wouldn't a stock one work, it has the tranny cooler built in.

Get an aftermarket one at Advance, Autozone etc.

Nooch

Yeah but OEM is spendy and I'm trying to sell the car. Usually an aftermarket item that is well-built is just as good as oem at less than the oem price.

Nooch

Anyone else have any advice on things to check out? Drove it again started up initially a little weird this morning, felt like it was 'rumbling' for lack of a better word. After about 3 seconds though the car smoothed it's idle out itself without throwing a code at all.

It hasn't redlined yet (temp gauge, I never redline [tach] my cars) but gets awfully close sometimes. How long does it take to blow a headgasket?

I can idle the car for awhile and not see any temp difference. Like stated before it's only after freeway type driving.

motegicivic

You really need to see the temp after a good run, and then let it idle parked to see if the temp gauge starts to go up or not.


By the way the crap in the radiator, i am wondering if someone dumped a stop leak or barrs in there, or might be rust???

The engine does have weird sound i can not pin point it, unless it is the intake making the noise?
As for the headgasket, just don't run it too hot for too long, if the work was done as stated on the receipt hopefully they did do what they said.

Nooch

That video isnt mine but semi the same sound. THanks for the input

Wrona

run the car hard park it let it idle see if it runs the fan

Nooch

Alright will do.

Also yesterday I bought a new rad cap. When it'd overheat I noticed that there was coolant spray everywhere after when I'd park. I know that's supposed to happen at a point but not sure. As of yet though I haven't had any overheating issues today. I cleaned the bay out so if it overheats/sprays coolant i'll know.

Cap'N Chronic

Get a fiberglass hammer, cup your hand over the end of the handle and put it up to your ear, and put the head of the hammer where you think the noise is coming from on your motor. Works as a stethoscope.

Wrona

or get a stethescope...

Jabuuty671

Does the coolant end up disappearing and you run dry? I'm having the same problem and hope that if you find the solution or I do, it can benefit both of us.

Cap'N Chronic

Stethoscope is too loud for me, and I was having my coolant disappear for a while and eventually found out it was coming out of my heater core all over the floor in my car.

motegicivic

Typically no, unless you have a leak, or a bad headgasket.

Jimster480

Its probably the headgasket. I just had the same problem on my boosted single. It wasn't burning coolant that I could see but it would overheat all the time. I suggest if you have a torque wrench for you to check the TQ atleast on the head.i

Nooch

Figured mine out. Bad Headgasket. Looks like I'm going to have to fix this **** before I sell it now.

motegicivic

How did you finally pinpoint it?

Nooch

I forget what the test is called but basically it's a clear tube with a opened end on 1 side and on the other it has a 1 way valve. You pour this blue liquid into the tube and hold the 1 way valve end over the radiator filler neck(once the cap has been removed). Start the car and if the blue liquid turns yellow it means it's being contaminated by combustion gases, which means a blown headgasket.