SpokaneSpeed

Ok guys (and gals) - hoping you can help us out with another one... Yes I've done quite a bit of searching for testing motor, switch, etc. and have some test results... just unsure of where to go from here. Hoping someone can shed some light. Thx in advance!


Working on a 97 Civic EX Coupe. Driver's window stopped rolling up/down. Owner of the car assumed his motor had gone out and replaced the motor/regulator assembly. Obviously, since I'm starting this thread, it did not solve the issue.

We started with tested the power window relay (under dash), which was good. Moved onto fuses, and checked #10 & #11, which also were both good. However, we are NOT getting battery voltage @ Fuse 11 w/ key on... which we should be... and not getting battery voltage on the blu/blk wire in the driver's master swtich connector - not getting battery voltage anywhere on the master switch connector.

Any idea where/how we lost power?

Former User

Check whether 7.5A dash fuse 24 is blown and whether it has battery voltage on both top test tabs with the key in ON(II).

SpokaneSpeed

Just the guy I was hoping would comment on this thread!! Lol. Thank you.

Fuse 24 is good - battery voltage only on top slot of fuse connector. no battery voltage on bottom.

Former User

With the key in ON(II), does battery voltage reach 20A fuse 10?

Next test. Turn key off. Reinstall fuse 24. Do you measure continuity to body ground at both top test tabs of installed fuse 24 (key off)?

SpokaneSpeed

Yes, continuity to body ground from both test tabs of fuse, when installed w/ key off.

Yes, we have battery voltage at Fuse 10.

Former User

Your collective tests suggest that the dash fuse box is bad.

SpokaneSpeed

Thanks. Not the answer I had hoped for, but at least its an answer! Thank you for your time - it was GREATLY appreciated

Former User

You can probably find a replacement dash fuse box at a local junk yard.

SpokaneSpeed

Replaced the under-dash fuse box... getting power at both Fuse 10 & 11, but still have no working window motor... Ideas? Other tests?

Fuse 24 is good, window relay on new fuse box is good, Fuse 24 has good cont. to body ground w/ key off on both test tabs. Fuse 10 & 11 are good and have battery voltage on top fuse connector slots.

Former User

Good progress.

Unplug the connector for the master switch in the driver door. Test whether battery voltage reaches pin A1 (Blu/Blk wire) with the key in ON(II).

Can I assume that the passenger window still works fine?

.

SpokaneSpeed

Thanks. Yes happy to see voltage at the fuses, hopefully we can figure this out.

No battery voltage to A1 (blue/black wire) w/ key onII.

We thought the passenger window was working, but just found out it does not either. According to the owner, the passenger window has never worked, but only recently did the driver's window stop working. There is no battery voltage at any of the wires @ passenger switch plug, OR passenger window motor plug.

Former User

The Blu/Blk wire is clearly broken somewhere between the dash fuse box and master switch connector. In fact, most wire breaks occur at the connectors in the driver and passenger door jams. Therefore, my guess is that you'll find multiple broken wires in those two connectors (C556 and C557) and that repairing them will return function to your power windows.

Are you also having power lock problems? If so, the fix will likely be the same.

SpokaneSpeed

Kinda what I figured based on what I read in searches of similar problems w/ EK's. No problems w/ door lock thankfully.

Is there another B+ wire in the door shell that I can tap into directly and wire to the blue/black wire on the switch?? lol... hoping to avoid de-looming and chasing wires.

Approx where is this C556 & C557 connector? Just in the door jam where the door connects to unibody?



Thanks again for all the help!!

SpokaneSpeed

Is there an easy way to get to this plug?? Looks deep in the door shell and appears to be a real PITA lol...

Former User

To get maximal access, you probably need to remove the fender.

SpokaneSpeed

Ok... And how about another 12v source in the door panel we could jump off of to A1 in the switch?? ;-)

Former User

You can probably temporarily use the Wht/Grn wire in the connector of the power lock control unit.

However, you may not regain power window function if there are other broken wires.

SpokaneSpeed

Thank you for all the help! Will probably just pull fender - noticed there was no fender lining, which probably initiated all of these issues. Again, greatly appreciate the help ;-)

Former User

Good luck with the fix.

SpokaneSpeed

Thanks. Got window to operate with jumper wire from wht/grn, just for temp purposes. Is there a 12v source in the passenger door shell we can use for temp testing purposes? (now that we know the passenger doesn't work either lol =P).

Former User

Nope. But first make sure the main switch in the driver's master switch is not toggled off. That would cause the passenger window not to work at all.

If the master switch is toggled on, run a hot wire directly from the battery to splice into the Grn/Blk wire at the passenger door window switch (for testing purposes). Then check whether the window works from both the driver and passenger switch.

SpokaneSpeed

10-4. The window lock is not on - first place we looked ;-)

Thank you again ;-)

SpokaneSpeed

Tried running the hot wire and still couldn't get the window to roll up/down...

Do you have a schematic for testing the passenger window swtich? All I could find in searching was for the sedan, and this is a coupe w/ different plug.

Thx

Former User

...

SpokaneSpeed

Tested passenger window switch - according to diagram it appears to test bad. (no continuity between 2-3 or 4-5 when OFF, also no continuity 1-4 & 2-3 when UP, & no continuity between 1-3 & 4-5 when DOWN...

Got another switch from the local junkyard, and it tests exactly the same... lol, am i doing something wrong here - or did I miss something?? Or did we get another bad switch from junkyard?? Thx.