URbaby8myDINGO

I'm sure we've all seen the DIY inserts on Ebay. I have never used them but the premise seems the same, keep your doors together and stuff the inserts between the seams on the armrest. While all well and good, I thought I'd take it a bit further and share my technique with you all. So far this has been done on my 97 EK hatch (manual windows) and my friend's SI (power windows) with no problems. Enjoy!


Tools and Supplies:

Craft or small iron

Scissors

2 yards of fabric (in case you make a mistake)

spray adhesive, I recommend Loctite Professional Performance 300 heavy

phillips screw driver

vibrating saw or dremel (I use a Rockwell Sonicrafter)

hand grinder

ratchet

10mm socket

10mm wrench

M6x1.0 Tap from tap and dye set

package of 1/4" thick NON fusible batting

x-acto knife or scalpel

threadlock (optional)

THE FOLLOWING ARE PURCHASED THROUGH BEL-METRIC.COM

(32) M6X1.00X23 threaded studs

(32) M6x1 nuts

(32) WFE6X18 fender washers

First begin by removing your door panel from your door, then move on to step one.





1) I begin by cutting off the plastic welds holding the armrest on. Be sure not to go too deep.


2) With all the welds cut off and looking like the pic below, SLOWLY pry the panel away. Be patient here, some welds may need some more attention to *pop* the panel off.


3) Now with the insert off, pull the material covering it off and throw it away. You will not need it for the other steps.


4) Take the batting out and lay it over the panel. You are looking to have about 2 inches extra all the way around. Spray your insert with your adhesive, making sure it's on thick, then cover with the batting and trim. After covered i recommend cutting out for your controls/pocket and window crank. To cut out for the crank use a * cut for the hole and a >-----< cut for the window controls/pocket.


5) For the fabric spray your adhesive and let it tack up a little then lay it on keeping it the same size as the batting. Take your time! Small wrinkles on the edges will be hidden by the door panel, but taking your time will reduce the wrinkles over all. Also stretching the fabric while laying it down helps. Work in small sections. Then cut out like before.


Take a craft or small iron and run it over the fabric to make sure the wrinkles are out and to help adhere it better. Now you are done with your insert. Now it's time for the door panel

1) Using a M6x1.0 tap, tap the plastic pegs that were left after cutting off the welds. you may have to clean some out. I recommend using a drill bit that's just smaller than the hole. TAKE YOUR TIME! These posts are shallow so do NOT over thread, the studs will do the work, you just need to get them started.


2) Now insert your M6x1.0 threaded studs. You can use the "double nut" technique to tighten them in, but again BE CAREFUL not to go too deep.



3) With your INSERT sitting over the studs take your x-acto knife or scalpel and cut out so the studs can come through and install the insert.


4) Now just install your washers and then your nuts. This is where the threadlock is used if you want to make sure they NEVER come apart. I chose not to incase i ever want to re-cover them again.


5) After I installed I realized the studs were TOO long in some spots to fit correctly on the door. This is easily remedied by using a grinder on the studs to take them down almost flush with the nuts.

Now sit back and enjoy your new panels. More work involved, but WAY better look in the end. The batting not only helps to cushion your insert but also helps keep the panel from showing through your fabric.

Moi Moi

nice..... i like that

Marvin1985

iTrader: (5)

I've already did mine but I like the stud idea

confidence

That looks like it will hold really well.
I used a plastic welder for mine. Its the same way the factory did it. If you want to use a plastic welder the door plastic is poly propaline (PP)

URbaby8myDINGO

^--- I had actually debated plastic welding but decided that if I ever wanted to re cover them that this would be easier. The (32) per on the hardware is for both door panels btw.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

nice work..

I need to re-do mine again

URbaby8myDINGO

Thank you. Well if/when you do I hope this comes in handy for you.

crazyhouse2011

Reported for inappropriate username.

URbaby8myDINGO

^----- LOL!!!!!!

For your sake I hope you're kidding.

ShinsenTuner

iTrader: (1)

Polypropylene*

URbaby8myDINGO

bumpety bump

Wahski

I like the stud idea also. I did the passenger side but it was such a pain in the *** that I've been procrastinating doing the drivers side. Might give this idea a shot.

2scars

THis is great, I have fixed the door cards with short screws and flat washers, but this is goint to work much better. Great write up!

Brandon

URbaby8myDINGO

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I had tried screws before and even bolts. The problem being that if you go too far you damage the front of the panel. On a related note, if you tighten the stud too much and "bump" out the front of the panel, back the stud off and use a socket extension and rub the bump on the panel to flatten it and smooth it back out. You'll be left with a small discolored mark, but its barely noticeable.

URbaby8myDINGO

bumping cuz I can. =P

lostforawhile

why not use short flathead metric screws? just get ones shorter then the depth of the holes

Derkeley

That looks awesome! Im going to try this when I update my interior.

URbaby8myDINGO

U can use metric screws or bolts, but the problem is the depths of the posts ars different. Youd be shimming like crazy. You also run the chance of bulging or puncturing the front of your panel. Also, if you need to grind down for clearence its easier with threaded posts. Ive tried both ways, this was the one that yielded the best results. I will be at the Honda-Fetish meet in March if you would like to see them in person.

URbaby8myDINGO

bump

shotoutacc0rd

Quality DIY'er right here.

crazyhouse2011

Stop bumping this useless non-tech thread.

Reported for inappropriate username.

Wdpfreak145

Instead of hating on him for bumping his own helpful how-to thread, how about making some constructive suggestions like stickying this thread so it gets preserved instead of being lost among the incessant ignorant ramblings called threads you two geniuses love to post...

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

There was an older write up where the guy used short self-tapping screws to replace the rivets. All the rest of the DIY is pretty solid. The screw thing is a bit much.

shotoutacc0rd

if I was a pus like you I would report your signature.

crazyhouse2011

Your on your 3rd username???

I'm still on my first buddy.