P-M-B,93EXsedan

IF I swap my 93 EH9 from auto single cam to manual dual cam, prolly a b16 to start with to get the best transmission & (arguably, please dont tho) head, which car(s) do I need to salvage the shifter linkages etc from?

I think I need the car's interior pieces out of a civic, the console and pedals.

but what about everything else? Is there any differences between a manual b swap into an EH9 vs a standard single cam trans swap?

D series clutch master cylinder & reservoir

D series slave cylinder (pretty sure I need the B transmission slave cylinder but it should come with the swap I'm gonna buy)

D series master-cylinder side clutch hydraulic line.

D series slave cylinder side clutch hydraulic line. Again im assuming that since its a B transmission that the slave cylinder is bolting to, this needs to be the B series slave cylinder's line but im not at sure on this one. Maybe the lines are shaped the same way.

manual throttle cable for SOHC engine.

and the engine& trans mounts.. If I am not mistaken, a b series engine/trans is a direct bolt on for a D series engine car. So all I need to do is follow the D series auto -> manual guide for this?

92-95 pedals, with the pin that connects to the master cylinder.

Shift linkage (thank you notaracist for the info bout this.)

ECU: IV read that my P28 computer is rather flexable. That I can perform a trick to disable the check engine light for the auto -> manual swap.
iv already read that if I chip it, I could tune it to run a DOHC engine no proble.. This seems good to me since I already have the ECU, and I'm not sure if I'm gonna replace the initial b block with a low compression b18 block or a high compression big block.


am I missing anything?

is there any differences between a routine D series auto - manual, versus throwing an engine swap into the mix?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

The linkage can come from any B series 92-00 Civic except the CRX/Del Sol. Yes, you will also need the center console and pedal assembly from a standard 5G Civic. You'll also need the proper replacement mounts, and the hydraulic clutch hardware, axles, and a proper ECU to match the motor. You'll also need to wire VTEC.

This is all covered in the FAQ's sticky - you should seriously give it a long, hard read.

P-M-B,93EXsedan

I didnt see anything in there about auto SOHC -> manual DoHC, I just wanted to make sure I'm not gonna run into any dumb surprises since ill probably be doing this swap in 1 evening, when my SOHC 1.6 blows up

P-M-B,93EXsedan

Since my car already has VTEC and what I understand is a chip-able and tunable ECU, do I still need to **** with that ****Ing ****? I was hoping it would be all bolt off bolt on s***.

could I just use the B computer without rewiring vtec since my car already utilizes it?

P-M-B,93EXsedan

I'll copy the list from the SOHC trans swap. If there's any differences between those parts and DOHC parts I guess that's literally all I am asking. I could follow the sticky for the actual SOHC -> DOHC procedure, once the chassis is prepped to follow the routine procedure.

gathering the trans swap parts is my first hurdle in what is gonna look really easy compared to a 4,000$ sticker price auto -> manual in my 2004 Accord v6. I'm prolly gonna pay NVA-AV6 to do that since he's one of the few Americans who already has. Plus he saved my glass tranny from certain doom by informing me about the minivan's transmission cooler and also the dumb transmission filter that Honda told me "doesn't exist"

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Auto D to manual B is just an auto to manual combined with a D to B. Assuming this is your first swap, give yourself a weekend - something will inevitably come up, or you'll have forgotten to buy something, or something will be the wrong size.

Yes, you could just use an OBD1 ECU that matches your motor. That's what I was saying when I said "an ECU to match your motor". If you aren't comfortable modifying a couple wires, you would be well-served getting the complete wiring harness from a car that the motor came out of as well.

FAQs - Frequently Asked (Tech) Questions

Sections 6C and 7C are the main things you should read the hell out of. As with any car modifications, you shouldn't even be looking at parts yet. Set up a game plan. What I do first is make a game plan. Read everything you can find, and get as much information as you can fit in your head. When you can't fit anymore in your head, write it down on paper or in a Word/notepad file. Read over everything again, once a night for a week, just to make sure you didn't miss any minor details. You'll always notice more the second and third time you watch a movie, reading a book, or going through a textbook. Treat the FAQ's sticky like a textbook for your car. The next step is to figure out what you want. Some motors are rev happy, make power, but are lacking torque. Some motors won't rev as high, but make more torque. Once you know what your power goals are, make a spreadsheet in Excel listing exactly what you need, and only what you need. Forget the fancy fender bolts, unnecessary fender flares, crazy yellow headlights, or anything else that isn't strictly necessary for your swap. Once you have that all set up, start buying the parts on that spreadsheet. Once you have everything, now it's time to start your swap.

It's a very methodical and time consuming, but if you do it right, you won't run into any problems, and you'll easily be swapped and running in a day or two of turning wrenches with a couple friends.

As a side note: Click this Wikipedia article. It'll give you a solid ground for figuring out what motor you want to use. Keep in mind, you don't have to use the same transmission. If you want to go through my build thread, I'm using an LS engine with a Civic Type R transmission. Granted, the motor is heavily modified and being built for boost, but you'll still get a solid idea of how to rebuild a motor, if you need to.

P-M-B,93EXsedan

I edited the OP to include more stuff. I'm gonna get a b16 since I have a feeling my SOHC is on its way out. I might post a video I made when I heard a few new clicky tappy sounds coming from my engine.

I dont think I want to keep the b16 block for long tho. The bigger blocks seem to be worth it, especially considering I can get a shortblock very cheap. That also gives me an opportunity to get the short block professionally built with high performance bearings, forged rods and pistons. Then when I have a few weeks off school or work or whatever, I can bring the b16 head to a shop to be built with high performance cams and valves P&P etc.

I beat my car, I want it to to not blow up unexpectedly. plus I want to not rely on beating people off the line, I would appreciate more than 100whp again. I liked the 200+ in my accord. 200+ sounds nice in a car that's 1,000 lbs lighter. I dunno if I want F/I though, maybe just a bottle instead. F/I is alot of extra stuff to deal with, especially in a car that is in no way designed for it. I think ill save F/I fun for a supra or GT4 all-trac Celica.

P-M-B,93EXsedan

I should really probably just buy a JDM 2jzgtte and a T100. 500hp single turbo 4wd suspension travel hill jumping turbo truck. Sucks that r154f trucks are rare as **** tho. Not half as rare as gt4 celica transfer cases tho

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It seems you have some misconceptions about forced induction, as well. Give the Forced Induction FAQ a good, long read.

If 200 is what you want without those pesky power adders, you basically have two options outside of a heavily built motor - a mildly built and tuned B18C1, or a simply tuned B18C5. Both are very pricey options. 200 can easily be had with a B16A2 and a GT28RS, for less than a C5 swap would cost you.

This is why I said to spend a lot of time reading and researching. There are dozens of way to get to any (reasonable) power goal, and it really just comes down to preference. I'm a turbo guy. Some people are into blowers, some into spray, and some into raw all-motor power. Even within those four options, there are sub-options. Small turbo big boost, or big turbo small boost? Centrifugal or roots blower? Dry or wet spray? High displacement or high compression?

It all just comes down to how you want to do it, and how much you're willing to spend on doing it. The absolute most important piece of advice I give everyone is this, though: Money, speed, reliability - you can only have two. Fast and cheap won't be reliable, reliable and cheap won't be fast, and fast and reliable won't be cheap.

P-M-B,93EXsedan

Anyway not to derail my own thread... Honda civics...

P-M-B,93EXsedan

I think ill be happy with a b16's torque over my dinky d16, for a few months.

Do you think a 1.8 RS block or 2.0 CRV block will be able to do 200 with a built b16 head? I used the calculator and devised that a stroked out motor would be cool, stock high-stroke crank, vtec rods and GSR pistons (forged copies of those two). Somewhere between 11:1 and 12:1.

my only concern is that its gonna rev lower than my z6, while id like to redline the motor between 7,000 and 8,000.

P-M-B,93EXsedan

To clarify I know the 2.0 has wider pistons so I guess I would use totally aftermarket high compression pistons for that. The GSR pistons is what I used in the calculator tho

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

The main thing limiting the LS/B20 from revving into the 7000's is the rods. If you use forged rods, you can easily and safely push it to 7400. With 12:1 and a competent tuner (and probably some mild cams), you should be able to squeeze 200 out of it.

94EG8

'92 - '95 Civics and '94 - '01 Integras share the same pedals, clutch line, master cylinder and slave cylinder.

If you're using a B16A get a '94 Del Sol Vtec throttle cable and bracket (these don't cost much brand new and saves fabbing up a crappy looking bracket so you can reuse the D-series throttle cable)

Also if you want to retain cruise control get a set of pedals from a car with cruise (it's usually easier to find a set out of an Integra) and make sure you swap all 3 as the automatic gas pedal is different as well.

You'll need an auto to manual conversion mount for a '92 - '95 civic, or you can drill the spot welds out of the bracket welded to the frame and and weld on the manual version so you can just use stock mounts.

You don't need a center console either, just the shift boot and the 2 screws to attach it.

P-M-B,93EXsedan

I'm probably gonna drill/weld the mount instead of buying those dumb conversion mounts for people who cant use a welder.

and I think it would be easier to get the entire shifter out of a civic than somehow use the automatic's.

will Integra shifter linkages/center console bolt into my civic no problem?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Those "dumb conversion mounts" aren't dumb. Unless you're extremely good at welding, and trust your car's safety (as well as your own) to your welding skills, conversion mounts aren't expensive, and are a tried and true way to do it right.

Yes, the shift linkages will bolt in. You don't need the center console, but no, an Integra center console won't bolt into your Civic.

94EG8

You're not understanding, you can retain the plastic console, you'll need the manual shift boot though to fill the hole where the automatic shifter used to be.

The shift linkage will (and you'll need it if you're going B-series) the console doesn't fit though.

While I'll admit they're not dumb there's nothing wrong with welding in the proper mounts, it's not hard, all you're doing is plug welding the mount on and even if you really screw it up as long as you're running torque mounts there is no safety issue (the very first time I did one of these swaps years ago I ran no top mount at all for the first week)

P-M-B,93EXsedan

Is it worthwhile switching to a manual console? I dont even use it much since I cant even see it at night. I can barely make out the needles and I always look over to tempaturw to make sure its facing downward

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Cluster, you mean? Not really, no. If you can't see it at night, you need to either turn up the dimmer switch for it, or replace the bulbs.

P-M-B,93EXsedan

Yeah I meant cluster I must've still been thinking about the manual consol vs the automatic one lol. My dimmer switch is haggard, sometimes when I punch it it'l work for a little while but usually it just stays off. I gotta pick up lots of stuff as it is the dimmer switch is just one more thing. Like an antenna that isn't rusted out, and the roof plastic strip thing.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

b16 torque? lolz. a whopping 111 ft/lbs, not until 7k rpm. z6= 106ft/lbs@ 5200. bad call.

P-M-B,93EXsedan

Z6 sucks dude I get beat by everyone, ill be infront on the launch and still end up behind a couple cars by the time were at the other side of the intersection.

it is nice to drive a Honda automatic that isn't made of glass though

P-M-B,93EXsedan

Hondas suck I wish I could afford Toyota parts =(

****** 5,000$ 6speeds ffs

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

it sucks because it is an economy car. you get beat because youre driving a 17 second car. a b16 will be much more fun to daily than what you have now, but its a far cry from anything serious. if its torque out of a honda you want, turbo is the way to go. your z6 is an EXCELLENT candidate for boost. plenty of guys making 200whp reliably and inexpensively on z6.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

also, a turbo setup, 5 speed conversion, and some tune time will run you less than just a b16 swap will.