kos99ngel

I want to get better brake power I don’t know if to go with the rear brake conversion from the JDM SIR EG6. Or to go with the Civic Type R JDM EK9 5 Lug conversion. I going to change the disc, brake pads, brake lines, to aftermarket should I just go with the JDM EG6 rear brake since I am changing the disc to aftermarket or should I go with the EK9 5 LUG I am going to be doing a b18 swap in the near future or the K20.

t0p_sh0tta

What type of pads are you running now? Swapping to disc in the back doesn't make much of a difference.

A decent pad setup and some fresh fluid are usually enough, even if the car is tracked occasionally.

dirtyafrican

go with a gsr rear brake setup

its should be cheaper since they're usdm (junkyard)

djviet2000

im going to do this also in my hatch...what all pieces do i need to make it complete and hassle free?

t0p_sh0tta

Complete rear trailing arms, and proportioning valve. Also the appropriate e-brake cables.

95ProjectEJ1

iTrader: (5)

from what has been said, the prop valve is not neccessary. It would just be nice to be able to pop off the tire, loosen 2 bolts on each caliper and slide the new pads in, instead of ******* with drums FTL

t0p_sh0tta

Umm... how often do the shoes need to be changed again???

92VXeg

iTrader: (1)

As for the prop valve...no it is not needed but i say the only purpose is for safety. I found out first hand last week when i did the rear discs on my eg hatch that i tried locking them down at about 60mph and it was all i could do to keep my back end from passin me. So the prop valve would just give less to the rear maybe more to the front.
I found my biggest difference when i used the
1991 Civic Sedan EX Master Cylinder. Its nearly an inch wide (15/16in) and gives ya the stiff pedal. But im glad i have them now and they made more of a difference than i ever thought.

kos99ngel

I guess I am going to go with the GSR brake since I am changing the disc and brake lines brake pads. But would it make a difference from the original EG6 JDM rear brake.

kos99ngel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What type of pads are you running now? Swapping to disc in the back doesn't make much of a difference.

A decent pad setup and some fresh fluid are usually enough, even if the car is tracked occasionally.</TD></TR></TABLE>


stock pads

JMelt4

Dude, you are running stock pads and talking about upgrading to some serious baller stuff.....

Think about what the weak link in the equation is. It's your pads, rotors and fluid. All wear items. If you got HPS pads, Brembo blank rotors and DOT4 fluid with SS Lines, you would spend a fraction of what rear discs would cost and you'd have all the braking you'd need for a LONG time.

Look into it. Time and time again people who did the rear-disc swap say they felt very little if any difference in braking. PADS, FLUID, ROTORS!!!

kos99ngel

Well yeah I am going to be changing my brake system because I am going to be getting a b18 more power it means more brake power also I just needed to know if it’s worth it changing the rear drums to disc. But you suggest not to change the rear drums to only change to better disc and brake pads brake lines and fluid

t0p_sh0tta

^ correct. The rear disc swap is unnecessary for most people.

JMelt4

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kos99ngel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well yeah I am going to be changing my brake system because I am going to be getting a b18 more power it means more brake power also I just needed to know if it’s worth it changing the rear drums to disc. But you suggest not to change the rear drums to only change to better disc and brake pads brake lines and fluid</TD></TR></TABLE>

Once you go to a B18, then it would make sense to upgrade all four corners (fronts and rears w/a bigger MC and BB). But until that D-series comes out, don't fool with disc swaps and stuff. It's just not necessary. Looks better, but isn't necessary.

t0p_sh0tta

^ Explain your reasoning please.

kos99ngel

Well I rather get either all four disc or just change the back already I think it’s time consuming if I only change my back only then latte I realize I have to change all four to the GSR

JMelt4

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ Explain your reasoning please.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I'm not sure what part you want me to explain but plainly:

B18C = at least 50% more power than regular D-series

DX, CX, etc. Civic brakes = dinky, but fine for ~100 WHP (read: not B series)

Integra Brakes = capable of stopping a car with a B18C.

I would also get Integra Brakes if I went to a turbo set up and was pushing over 150HP on a D. Does this make sense?

Also keep in mind if you buy integra brakes that there IS NO DIFFERENCE between RS, LS, or GSR. The type R is the only one that is different (but not worth the extra $$$ in my opinion).

hatchling37

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JMelt4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also keep in mind if you buy integra brakes that there IS NO DIFFERENCE between RS, LS, or GSR. The type R is the only one that is different (but not worth the extra $$$ in my opinion).
</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm glad somebody else said it.
A B18 does not put down much more power than even the weakest D-series. You do not need discs all the way around if all you're doing is a swap do a stock B18A/B. It helps, don't get me wrong. I have discs at all four along with a MC and a Prop. valve off of an Integra into my '97 hatch. That setup throws you through the windshield compared to the drum setup you have now. It stops very hard with little fade (from what I can tell, I don't race SCCA or track it ). If you want a fairly cheap upgrade, you can go factory brakes off an Integra. You'll be pleasantly surprised.

Micha

Get them off of an earlier RS if possible. They will not have ABS and you will have the correct MC.

Libertariat

AHahahahaaa I love it when people say

"More power thus need to stop faster"

Your car weighs the same either way.

B18c1 , d15b, or k20 turbo, your 60-0 is goign to be the same regardless.

Micha

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">AHahahahaaa I love it when people say

"More power thus need to stop faster"

Your car weighs the same either way.

B18c1 , d15b, or k20 turbo, your 60-0 is goign to be the same regardless.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But the B series will allow you to go 2000 miles per hour and it takes alot of brakes to stop from that speed. I like 4 wheel discs cause they are baller.

t0p_sh0tta

^w0rd s0n!

As I stated before, there are people who track their cars with drums out back. There's NO REASON to upgrade due to a swap, and BTW, his swapped hatch is still lighter than an Integra.

Libertariat

I've tracked my stock d16 with drums.

I never noticed any extreme lack in stopping power.

But I wasn't rocking a 250whp b series so that's probably my variable.

kos99ngel

How much do the GSR disc all four go for the usdm

hatchling37

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JMelt4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also keep in mind if you buy integra brakes that there IS NO DIFFERENCE between RS, LS, or GSR. The type R is the only one that is different (but not worth the extra $$$ in my opinion).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you not read your own thread? You're going to end up spending more if you ask for strictly GS-R stuff.