Eg Rear Disk Conversion
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Eg Rear Disk Conversion
wondering, how hard is it to go from stock rear drums to disk brakes? could i just get any acura/honda (non-5 bolt) rear disk brakes and it should be bing bang boom? lol, or is it a long and agonizing project? how much should i be spending depending on the brakes of course
#4
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Re: (phantom_sol)
i got mine for 180 picked up
integra rear trailing arm and brake assembly. basically direct bolt in but you would have to get an ebrake cable, in your case forma hatch si
me, i had to get a del sol VTEC or SI ebrake cable. also pay attention to what lines you will be needing. it would be a good idea to get the lines that correspond to the brake system you are upgrading to. i.e i need itnegra lines sincei put in integra rear disks (just to be on the safe side)
new rotors can be had for 20-50 bucks and pads are cheap.
expect to take your time and run into rusted bolts. dont rush but definately book time for an alignment soona fter you finish. also think about a new proportioning valve. stamped 4040 ,(i assume non-abs) this can be foundf rom any rear disk equipped car that is non abs or a 94 integra rs.
pm me if you need any more info
integra rear trailing arm and brake assembly. basically direct bolt in but you would have to get an ebrake cable, in your case forma hatch si
me, i had to get a del sol VTEC or SI ebrake cable. also pay attention to what lines you will be needing. it would be a good idea to get the lines that correspond to the brake system you are upgrading to. i.e i need itnegra lines sincei put in integra rear disks (just to be on the safe side)
new rotors can be had for 20-50 bucks and pads are cheap.
expect to take your time and run into rusted bolts. dont rush but definately book time for an alignment soona fter you finish. also think about a new proportioning valve. stamped 4040 ,(i assume non-abs) this can be foundf rom any rear disk equipped car that is non abs or a 94 integra rs.
pm me if you need any more info
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (phantom_sol)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phantom_sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got mine for 180 picked up
integra rear trailing arm and brake assembly. basically direct bolt in but you would have to get an ebrake cable, in your case forma hatch si
me, i had to get a del sol VTEC or SI ebrake cable. also pay attention to what lines you will be needing. it would be a good idea to get the lines that correspond to the brake system you are upgrading to. i.e i need itnegra lines sincei put in integra rear disks (just to be on the safe side)
new rotors can be had for 20-50 bucks and pads are cheap.
expect to take your time and run into rusted bolts. dont rush but definately book time for an alignment soona fter you finish. also think about a new proportioning valve. stamped 4040 ,(i assume non-abs) this can be foundf rom any rear disk equipped car that is non abs or a 94 integra rs.
pm me if you need any more info</TD></TR></TABLE>
Interesting. I got mine as a full drop for a teg. Bolted right up, ebrake cables and all. Wasn't hard at all. Lines all fit exactly as they should have, bolts all went right in, nothing stripped or hard to remove. The hardest part was getting the cable out because I had to drop the exhaust and pull the heat shields. Other then that, 2 hours and your done, easy. Don't expect any significant differences though. Felt exactly the same to me. I mainly did it because I got them for nothing and am also planning on upgrading the fronts, the porp valve, and the master cylinder.
integra rear trailing arm and brake assembly. basically direct bolt in but you would have to get an ebrake cable, in your case forma hatch si
me, i had to get a del sol VTEC or SI ebrake cable. also pay attention to what lines you will be needing. it would be a good idea to get the lines that correspond to the brake system you are upgrading to. i.e i need itnegra lines sincei put in integra rear disks (just to be on the safe side)
new rotors can be had for 20-50 bucks and pads are cheap.
expect to take your time and run into rusted bolts. dont rush but definately book time for an alignment soona fter you finish. also think about a new proportioning valve. stamped 4040 ,(i assume non-abs) this can be foundf rom any rear disk equipped car that is non abs or a 94 integra rs.
pm me if you need any more info</TD></TR></TABLE>
Interesting. I got mine as a full drop for a teg. Bolted right up, ebrake cables and all. Wasn't hard at all. Lines all fit exactly as they should have, bolts all went right in, nothing stripped or hard to remove. The hardest part was getting the cable out because I had to drop the exhaust and pull the heat shields. Other then that, 2 hours and your done, easy. Don't expect any significant differences though. Felt exactly the same to me. I mainly did it because I got them for nothing and am also planning on upgrading the fronts, the porp valve, and the master cylinder.
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Re: (phantom_sol)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phantom_sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">proortion valve should efinately help becaus eit may not be getting the right amount of fluid to teh rear. its been coverd in one of the above links</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just did my swap, and it felt fine without a the prop valve. I went to the back of my neighborhood where a lot of construction was going on, and locked my brakes in the sand over and over to study the lockup pattern. Turns out the fronts lock up far before the rears. I'd say nearly a second of difference. So the rears will get enough fluid, but not fast enough to match the fronts. (This is with the same brand pads in the front and back. Results will obviously vary with different configurations)
I just did my swap, and it felt fine without a the prop valve. I went to the back of my neighborhood where a lot of construction was going on, and locked my brakes in the sand over and over to study the lockup pattern. Turns out the fronts lock up far before the rears. I'd say nearly a second of difference. So the rears will get enough fluid, but not fast enough to match the fronts. (This is with the same brand pads in the front and back. Results will obviously vary with different configurations)
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Re: (phantom_sol)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phantom_sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and what would if feel like with a proportion valve? theres only one side of the experiment here....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just started looking for the new valve this morning. Hoping to get an adjustable one, so when I upgrade my brakes in the front later on I'll be able to re-adjust for that. The goal is that they all lock at the same time. Definitely better that the fronts are locking up first in the mean time.
I just started looking for the new valve this morning. Hoping to get an adjustable one, so when I upgrade my brakes in the front later on I'll be able to re-adjust for that. The goal is that they all lock at the same time. Definitely better that the fronts are locking up first in the mean time.
#11
Re: (jolt-tsp)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jolt-tsp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I just started looking for the new valve this morning. Hoping to get an adjustable one, so when I upgrade my brakes in the front later on I'll be able to re-adjust for that. The goal is that they all lock at the same time. Definitely better that the fronts are locking up first in the mean time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Around how much does an adjustable pv run?
I just started looking for the new valve this morning. Hoping to get an adjustable one, so when I upgrade my brakes in the front later on I'll be able to re-adjust for that. The goal is that they all lock at the same time. Definitely better that the fronts are locking up first in the mean time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Around how much does an adjustable pv run?
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