Momentum

Alright so i have the ls/vtec swap... everything was good this morning. Still pulled hard. After work my battery was dead, had to boost it ([freak]ing headlights)

Ever since then my car has no power? I cant tell if its any different in the lower rpm's because i haven't had it long, but after 4-5000 rpms it seems like there is just nothing. It still seems to rev quickly, but no power to the wheels. I can hear the VTEC at 5500 rpms, but still the car just has no go. Engine definately isnt as loud.

Now i dont know if it has anything to do with the battery dying, but i cant think of anything. I didnt build the motor and dont know all that much about the ls/vtec swap. I just figured the battery dying could have screwed up the ecu?

Fuel pressure is at 32 at idle, 40 when i give it gas....
Also it took a little while to start? Cranked for about 10 seconds then started fine... Im kinda scared to start it again right now

SirRevvs

Can you describe your power loss/bogging issue a little better? Do you have any check engine lights? When the car is running it uses power from the alternator, the battery is merely for starting and providing amperage for accessories such as lights etc.

Momentum

I dont know how to explain it really...

I have also noticed that theres not much power until i hit about 25000 rpms, at 2500 i can feel it get a little stronger, but after i get to about 4-5000 the rpms are going up still but i cant feel the power going to the wheels.

SirRevvs

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SirRevvs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have any check engine lights? </TD></TR></TABLE>

?

Sounds possible you may have a developing ignition problem i.e. distributor. I don't see how jumping a car could mess anything up, unless you do it backwards in which case you'll blow the main fuse. Are the battery terminals tight? All your grounds hooked up?

GoldCoin

iTrader: (1)

How did u tune it?

I had a similar problem when my cousin had a fully build JUN everything b16. It bogged real bad at 5k and felt like nothing. Everyhting was good.. No CEL lights. BUT it needed a retune for some wierd reason

Momentum

I just bought the car not sure how it was tuned.
No check engine light.

Its been running fine all week until the battery died.

SirRevvs

the program in your ecu is stored and not erasable unless its reflashed. Do you maybe have a vafc?

SirRevvs

so your battery died and you jumped it? you've done absolutely nothing else to anything?

GoldCoin

iTrader: (1)

Check to see if any of ur motor mounts are in need of changing. Esp the torque mount

That could cause something like that to happen

Momentum

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoldCoin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check to see if any of ur motor mounts are in need of changing. Esp the torque mount

That could cause something like that to happen</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothing at all.
I drove it 20km to work and it was pulling hard. I guess i left my headlights on, so i had to boost it. I let it idle for ten minutes and then got in and drove. I noticed the lack of power pulling away from a red light.

I dont have a VTEC Controller. I did however notice a whistling sound i can hear from inside the car, it only whistles when idling and reving under 3000 rpms. I thought at first it was the air intake but opened the hood and couldnt tell where it was comign from, this was before i noticed the lack of power so i didnt really think anything of it.

SirRevvs

You got me man, sounds like a placebo. A bad battery could cause poor engine performance but also wouldn't have enough juice tostart the car. Tighten up your terminals?

cherroneballs

the only time it tok me that long to start a motor the compression was screwed! turn it over for 10 nto 15 seconds to build up enough compression for it to start. don't know who built it or if you didn't break it in but you or someone screwed something up on the compression end of things sounds like

SirRevvs

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cherroneballs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only time it tok me that long to start a motor the compression was screwed! turn it over for 10 nto 15 seconds to build up enough compression for it to start. don't know who built it or if you didn't break it in but you or someone screwed something up on the compression end of things sounds like </TD></TR></TABLE>

But he states it happened after he jump started his car, that wouldn't cause a compression loss. Also I've seen cars hard to crank for many other reasons such as main relay, intermittant distributor failure, blown head gaskets, leaking spark plug tube seals, clogged injectors, I could go on and on. Def. not a compression problem unless the head gasket popped on his way to work and he didn't notice it until he left work and had to jump start his car. Anythings possible.

The only time I've seen a true compression problem were the engine had to be cranked and cranked to start it is a blown headgasket, or when you throw a rod on a d series and crank it with the gas floored toget theother 3 cylinders to hit so you can grenade the engine

SirRevvs

I'm gonna put my money on a distributor/ignition problem.

fmrprojects

i say you got a ignitor problem. hondas are notorious for ignitors going bad in the distributor. had a problem like yours before, but mine was noticable misfire. swapped out the ignitor and problem went away

wheelmanbg

Bump because I have the same problem on a D15B7 AFTER changing cap, rotor, plugs, wires and ignition coil. My only hope/idea is a plugged cat

Momentum

BUMP for an update.

A couple days after this thread it just went away...
Still dont know what happened but havent had a problem since.