jasoncanseeoh

Alright guys, I haven't been on HT for a while, so just bare with me.

I have a 93 hatch on the loose and it just won't work for me. I'm pretty damn sure it's some type of electrical problem, but I can't specifically put my finger on it.

The first time it died on me was a month or so ago. I was coming from my buddy's house and out of nowhere the car was bogging while I was driving and I had to keep the rpms up to keep the car running. So, I dipped home and when I let go of the gas, it died. I figured it was the fuel pump, so I changed it. After I changed it, it didn't start up. So I was like, "Eff, dogg. What the hell?" I then decided to jump the battery and whaddaya know? It starts. I take it around the block, I feel the bogging again, the car was dying. I get home so pissed. I noticed that the lights were dimming so I take the alternator to Autozone and the alternator failed the inspection test. I get a new one after that, install it, jump the car. It starts. And it stays on for quite a while, so I drove it to work for a day or so, then boom. The dying comes back, now I was really pissed. Figured it was the alternator so I got it replaced under the warranty, AND ON TOP OF THAT ****, I was so fed up I just bought another battery.

Guess what?
Same **** was still happening...... I don't even know what to say. My baby's just sitting outside.

Anyone have any clue what's going on? I'm pretty sure it's not the main relay, but if anyone thinks otherwise, just let me know. I'm open to ideas.

Thanks for anything.

b15

had something very similar happen to my truck it ended up being a bad ECU.

jasoncanseeoh

Bumpin

Hondatherdm

When you turn the key "on" can you hear it fp prime?
make sure you ignition is good, especially rotor

jasoncanseeoh

Yeah. It primes. It's not a starting problem, more like STAYING ON problem. Damn, I'm pretty mad about this. I know that if it does have trouble starting though, it's because of a lack of electricity. Hence, the need to jump that bitch. Yadidi?

ReVeNgEd-SoN

It might be a bad spot in the wiring. My car was like that, at times it was start bogging on me like it was outta gas, then go again. And it was some bad wiring I had to splice out the bad to the good.

jasoncanseeoh

^Where was your "bad spot"?
I have a feeling it could be a ground, but the new alternator/battery had the car last A LITTLE longer than usual. So, i'm not completely sure. I really hate electrical. Haha. That bad spot can be anywhere! Efffff.

Any other ideas, guys? I appreciate what has been given or anything else that can be given.

CuteAccord

Okay let me to try to get it straight.

The car bogs and then starts to die out of nowhere as if it was starving for fuel? But then the electronics start to die and you cannot start the car again? Does it crank at all?

Some things to check:

You said it is not a starting issue but get the valves checked out. When was the last time you've had them adjusted? Similar symptoms happened to my GFs Civic due to the valves being out of spec.

Check the transmission to chassis ground, with it damaged or without it, the car may not even start (know from experience).

Thoroughly clean the battery cables, both positive and negative.


Sorry that's all I can think of for now, keep us updated!

ReVeNgEd-SoN

Well i'm not exactly sure were, but I believe it's the wires were the intake manifold is.

citizenEK

check the ground wires on the valve cover and the then the ground wire on top of the thermostat housing

freshvibes

Happened to my buddy. His battery was pooched and wouldn't hold a charge, therefore his car would be running off his alt and pooching that as well. He ended up replacing both and it's been good since.

Dokta

Any CEL?

civicvtec44

ok i got it u shop at autozone.. thats the first thing u should fix..i worked there years ago...not good parts..they are ****..go with carquest..or napa they got oem or better parts for everything autozone says they do but they are all off brand ****..it sounds like its a lose cable maybe check ur grounds?

Dokta

I agree with that guy ^

I only shop at Napa or Car Quest.

Dlamazing

well first of all diagnose the poor eg dont throw parts at! turn the ign on and the battery ligth goes off after 5 sec if you turn on the car and the battery ligth is on theres no charge! next hook up a volt meter to the battery while the cars on idle it should be 13-14.something volts if you gt 13.2 or in the specs your good its not the alternator and your car cranks so your battery should be good hook up a fuel gauge to it and tape it to your windshield check pressure while the car dies if pressure remains constant that not your problem then sounds you may have a bad distributer! crank position sensor is in there and when car gets hot that sensor may be going bad borrow a dist from a buddy and drive see if it does the same thing and ? do you have a swap on this eg???

MonkeyMagic

ignition coil.. test it

mrharmonic

check the rotor spark and also everytime you change the the fuel pump beter change the fuel filter also

jasoncanseeoh

That is right.... at least I believe so. It'll crank if enough juice is left in the battery. That's how I know it's not a fuel related issue. Whenever I jump it, it's all good. When the jumper cables are removed, THEN the problem occurs after several moments.

I'll def check out my grounds. Where is the tranny to chassis ground? And I haven't had the valves checked since I got the car, which is about a few months or so.... promise to keep this updated. Thanks for the concern.

Changed both.... yup SOS.

Nah, bruh.

Well, I got each alternator tested TWICE. I even went to different ones to test them, and REPLACED THEM TWICE under the warranty. And I got the new battery at NAPA.

That's the main concern. I'm pretty positive that the battery won't hold a charge. EVEN THOUGH the alternator and batt. have been replaced several times. When I jump it, IT STARTS. Idk if that means anything. Lol. When I turn the lights on/heater on, the car dies (this is w/o the jumper cables attached) and when I try restarting it, nada. Sorry if I'm being unclear, let me know if I am.

I'll check the dizzy/rotor tomorrow. AND I DEF. MADE SURE that I changed the fuel filter.




ALRIGHT, so I'll update you guys tomorrow evening to let you know how things go, I'll make sure to check the grounds, see if the ECU is the problem, or some type of rotor issue. THANKS FOR ANY HELP AGAIN.

jasoncanseeoh

......made sure EVERY ground was okay, put in another ECU, rechecked EVERYTHING, except for the dizzy....yet, I'm 99% positive that the issue isn't lying there.

*sigh* I think this is a sign.... Time to buy an STI. SERIOUSLY.

Hondatherdm

So you jump it drive it, next morning it wont start? too much parasic drain, take one terminal off the battery hook up ampmeter between cable and battery post, see what it reads with everything off, should be not more then 50 milliamps.
If alt is good then your wiring between alt and battery is not good, check how much resistence you have by taking meter in ohm setting put one lead on alt bolt where fat cable attach and one lead pos. battery post. For neg do alt housing and neg battery. GL

JHMEG8

When was the last time you changed your fuel filter? Could be clogged..

MHDesigns

Change the #15 fuse under the dash. Even if it looks ok, replace it to be sure. I'm pretty sure it's the same for eg's as ek's. The fuse is the VSS/Alternator fuse.

F4cE uR Fe4R

Sounds like ECU man.

jasoncanseeoh

Read the posts, noob. I did change the ECU.

CuteAccord

Try this to see if there is a drain overnight:

Unhook the negative terminal when you know you won't drive it again on a battery that can hold a charge (assuming it can because it is new). If it starts up fine, you know there is something draining the battery overnight.

Check the volts when the car is running it should be somewhere around 13-14 volts, if not, there may be an issue with the new alternator, fuses, or maybe the alternator belt. Anything less than this voltage is not enough to charge the battery and run all the accessories in the car.

Keep us updated.