Shimakid12

iTrader: (2)

So, planning on doing a K swap and I want to keep cruise control. With the swap, the plan is to clean up the bay a little bit and make it a lot more pretty to look at. The EK cruise control actuator is pretty big and ugly, and has a lot more too it than an EG/DC actuator.

The EK actuator uses a vacuum source from the intake manifold. It simply won't work without vacuum. Because of this, the actuator has a few lines, a valve assembly, and a vacuum canister. Trying to hide all of that will be no easy task; which brings me to my question.

The EG/DC cruise actuator only requires an electronic signal, and it's a bit smaller when compared to the EK actuator. So it would be a lot easier to work with in regards to making it look clean. My question is, can an EG/DC cruise control actuator plug into EK wiring and function properly? Has anyone out there tried this before?

Cross referencing parts, the EK, EG, and DC cruise control brains are all different. The EK actuator is different (obviously). The EG and DC actuator are the same. I'm not really sure why the cruise control brains are different between the Eg and DC when the actuators are the same. I'm thinking that in order for this too work, not only do the wiring and plugs all have to match, but the cruise control brain has to go with the actuator so I would need the actuator and the brain. But maybe it's as simple as plugging in the EG/DC actuator.

Anyone have any insight? Thanks.

jbpnoman

You're swapping in a K series, which if I remember correctly, is drive by wire. You should be sourcing the cruise control components for the motor, not the chassis.

Shimakid12

iTrader: (2)

While you're right that some K series are drive by wire, not all of them are; only the newest ones are. And in most cases, when you swap in a K series motor into a non drive by wire chassis, you use a throttle cable. It's much easier to add a throttle body that accepts a throttle cable to a K series motor than it is to wire up a non drive by wire chassis to work with a drive by wire throttle body. So in almost all cases when swapping a k series motor into a chassis that originally uses a throttle cable, even if the motor was originally drive by wire, you will use a throttle cable.

With that said, EG, EK, and DC cruise control actuators actuate the throttle of the motor indirectly. The actuator cables connect to the gas peddle, and not the motor/throttle body. So, in any swap condition, you would want the cruise control for the chassis, not the motor. If the whole cruise control system is maintained, it should still work regardless of which swap type you run. I appreciate your help though, thanks.

Shimakid12

iTrader: (2)

Is anyone willing to snap a couple of detailed pictures of the wiring harness plugs that goes into the cruise actuator on an EG or DC for me?

I'm interested in the shape of the plug, and how many wires it has.

Snowman3645

some helpful info here, but none of it ACTUALLY answered the question.... I have an even easier situation. I have a 98 ex, the stock d16y8. the cruise control unit literally ripped out of the car on its own accord...couldn't tell you why. can I swap in an eg cruise control unit? both d series motors, basically the same chassis. WHAT SAY YOU!!!

sslinkyy

I know I am 5 years late to the discussion but I have not found this information anywhere on the net. I used Alldata to source schematics and compared them. Here are my findings. This should match 96 - 98 civics. This will require eg/dc CC computer and eg/dc CC actuator. I am using a 95 GSR CC computer. If I got anything wrong please speak up. Original txt document attached

92 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------97
pin - color
1 brn/wht (integra brn/red) - cc clutch (cc act clutch) ----------------- brn - act sol power - same function/different color
2 gray - brake (nc) ------------------------------------------------------------same
3 blk - gnd ----------------------------------------------------------------------same
4 grn/wht - brake (no) -------------------------------------------------------same
5 lt grn/red - decel signal -----------------------------------------------------same
6 lt grn/blk - accel signal ------------------------------------------------------same
7 blu - RPM in -----------------------------------------------------------------*not present in EK harness - blu
8 brn (integra brn/wht) - limit switch high---------------------------------brn/wht - act vent sol - same function/different color
9 red/blu - CC ind light ------------------------------------------------------same
10 brn/blk - limit switch low -------------------------------------------------same - act vac sol - gnd
11 blk/yel - ignition ---------------------------------------------------------*not present in EK harness - blk/yel
12 yel/blu - vss --------------------------------------------------------------blu/wht - same function/different color
13 lt grn - control power --------------------------------------------------same
14 pink - clutch pedal input - disengage ------------------------------same


CC MODULE TO CC ACTUATOR WIRING (all cc act wiring same)
cc mod -> 1 brn/wht -> 12 brn/wht -> 4 wht -> cc act clutch ------------------(97 pow -- 1 brn -> brn -> 4 wht)
cc mod -> 8 brn -> 10 brn -> 3 brn -> cc act lim switch ------------------------(97 vent sol -- 8 br/w -> br/w -> 3 brn)
cc mod -> 10 brn/blk -> 11 brn/blk -> 2 blu -> cc act lim switch --------------(97 vac sol -- 10 brn/blk -> brn/blk - >2 blu)

CC MOD WIRING CHANGES
Functionally all of the wiring is the same minus the 2 missing wires which can be added easily.

Add pin 7 Blu (RPM in) take signal from blue tach wirie going into gauge cluster.
Add pin 11 blk/yel (Ignition) tap into fuse 14 - CC/keyless fuse

CC ACT
all wiring same

NukeNinja

I can't add very much. But I did swap a '94 civic CC actuator into my 01 cr-v, and it did NOT work. Cables and wires connected directly, but it would not function. I think the module turned on, I got the green light on the button, but it would not control speed. Which actually surprised me. Something about the actuator/computer interface is not the same between the servo and vacuum systems, even though the wiring is the same. So I believe that the actuators are not interchangeable between the older <95 and the newer >96.

I also swapped my 99 civic CC computer with my 01 cr-v CC computer and each one worked in either car. Which just means the computers in the later models are probably all interchangeable, even though they have different part numbers.

On a weird side note, the reason I was experimenting is because I put LEDs in my cr-v brake lights. The module senses braking by monitoring voltage on the brake light circuit. The incandescent bulbs are a dual filament bulb with basically separate circuits, but the LEDs are wired differently. I am having a hard time remembering the details, but with LEDs, the module thought the brakes were applied any time the running lights were on. The CC would not work on the way to work (when the headlights were on), but worked fine on the way home from work (when the headlights were off). If you turned on the headlights while cruising, the CC would drop out immediately. And it was a bits to figure out what was going on.

Anyway, I think you are on the right track.

sslinkyy

Upon inspection of my 97 civic under dash CC wiring I found that pin 7 (rpm) and pin 11 (ignition) are not present in my harness. Now I have to figure out how the 97 worked without the rpm signal. The missing ignition wire I am sure is likely to power the CC clutch since it is higher current than any of the solenoids on the vacuum CC actuator.

I will look back through the schematics and report my findings.

I might pull the tach signal from the gauges and the ignition power from a seldom used switched fuse.

sslinkyy

I have verified in the schematics that the EK does not use the blu or blk/yel wires in position 7 and 11 respectively. pin 11 (blk/yel) comes from fuse 14 in the integra fuse panel. Picture attached

wires missing from ek harness

sslinkyy

I won't be able to make it to the scrap yard for a while to grab one of these plugs to get the extra pins. Does anyone know where to buy the pins or have the specs so I can buy some online?

sslinkyy

I got the DC cruise control working in my 97. I ran the 2 wires that were missing the way that I said I would. After that the cruise control still didn't work. I found out that the DC cruise control is expecting a positive voltage from the buttons, I tested mine and didn't get any power or ground. So, I ran 2 new buttons, I was going to do this any way because I have a racing wheel to put on. I pulled power from the horn circuit(wht/grn) to the buttons and from one button to lt grn/red and the other button to lt grn/blk. Now I have a working DC cruise control!!!!!

I hope this helps others who want to get rid of the ugly vacuum CC