ebrake adjustment after replacing rear shoes
#1
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ebrake adjustment after replacing rear shoes
changed out the rear shoes on my 93 civic and now the ebrake doesnt hold. everything was installed and put back correctly. the pedal stops the wheels, but not the ebrake. i adjusted it according to archives, and even with the bolt all the way tightened, the ebrake will be tight, probly like 4-5 clicks, but it still wont hold the wheels. any other way in the drums to adjust it? or other method. thanks
#2
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Re: ebrake adjustment after replacing rear shoes (Digithalgravel)
The drums are self adjusting, there is a piece in there that adjusts the shoes as they wear, it may take 30 mins of driving and braking to get the shoes in the right spot, pull the drum off and center the shoes, and make sure the drum fits loosely around the shoes, they will self adjust.
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#4
Re: (MasterShake)
and if you dont want to take everyhing off again you can pop off that plug behind it it and adjust it with a screwdriver or with the actual too called a brake spoon, but it might just be easier and less frustrating to just take everything off again.
#5
Re: (red ej)
nope, its called a star adjuster also, you have to take it off, it pays 1.0 hours clean and adjust rears
what you want to do is basically throw the drum cover on there and spin it
it spind freely go 4 clicks
spin again if it still goes go 2
and after that it should start slowing down then go 1 click at a time until you're at spec
what you want to do is basically throw the drum cover on there and spin it
it spind freely go 4 clicks
spin again if it still goes go 2
and after that it should start slowing down then go 1 click at a time until you're at spec
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that adjuster is fully closed cuz if i unscrew it any more the drum wont fit over, when i spin the wheel the pedal will stop it but ebrake wont, even when i adjust the bolt under the center console
#7
Re: (Digithalgravel)
thats not what im talking about, im talking about tis supposed to stop on its own, the ebrake cables are behing it go ahead and try to adjust those from behind the drum, but the ebrake isnt really meant to stop the wheel comptley
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Re: (Digithalgravel)
this is from somewhere else:
Compare the photo above to this one, you'll see how the parking brake actuates the brakes differently than your "pedal" ..
In the above picture, the guys thumb is on what you call the "Brake Piston" that pushes the shoes outward (and onto the wall of the drum).
Below that cable is your 'parking brake cable' ..that pulls to the right and that arm its attached to levers the shoes apart which pulls the arm that holds the spider gear from moving to be free and adjust. And it adjust 'downward'. The arm keeps the gear from tightening.
not sure if it helps
Compare the photo above to this one, you'll see how the parking brake actuates the brakes differently than your "pedal" ..
In the above picture, the guys thumb is on what you call the "Brake Piston" that pushes the shoes outward (and onto the wall of the drum).
Below that cable is your 'parking brake cable' ..that pulls to the right and that arm its attached to levers the shoes apart which pulls the arm that holds the spider gear from moving to be free and adjust. And it adjust 'downward'. The arm keeps the gear from tightening.
not sure if it helps
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Re: (MasterShake)
i havent done drums for so long, but one rule before assuming the job is done with rear drums... spin the drum with the cover on.. if it spins freely, you need to adjust.. adjust until it spins about 1/4-1/2 turn..
#13
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Biggest pain in the ***....ever... I just did this a few weeks ago.
Get a good size std screwdriver
Remove the drum cover
On the top of the rear drum cover, opposite the wheel cylinder, theres a rubber plug....remove it.
Of course, you see this:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterShake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now, you need to guide your screwdriver (unless you have a brake adjustment tool) through that hole on the top, to that star adjusting nut, on the clevis. You need to use the tip of the driver, to spin that star
Set the driver where you want it......and replace the drum cover.
Thats right, now you cant see ****...
Now, dick around with this for about an hour, trying to find the damn nut, with the tip of your screw driver, since you cant see anything at all, and spin the adjuster open, so that it adds pressure to the shoes.
Oh, and if you think the proper tool makes it any better....it really doesnt help all that much. Still the biggest PITA
Get a good size std screwdriver
Remove the drum cover
On the top of the rear drum cover, opposite the wheel cylinder, theres a rubber plug....remove it.
Of course, you see this:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterShake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now, you need to guide your screwdriver (unless you have a brake adjustment tool) through that hole on the top, to that star adjusting nut, on the clevis. You need to use the tip of the driver, to spin that star
Set the driver where you want it......and replace the drum cover.
Thats right, now you cant see ****...
Now, dick around with this for about an hour, trying to find the damn nut, with the tip of your screw driver, since you cant see anything at all, and spin the adjuster open, so that it adds pressure to the shoes.
Oh, and if you think the proper tool makes it any better....it really doesnt help all that much. Still the biggest PITA
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Re: ebrake adjustment after replacing rear shoes (Digithalgravel)
Are you sure you have the cables hooked up to the levers in the drum assembly right? And are you sure you put the levers on the new shoes the right way? I do rear shoes/drums machining once or twice a week and still have to stop and think about it sometimes.
If the shoes arent adjusted up right the ebrake wont work. I turn the adjuster wheel down until I can get the drum on, then turn the wheel to adjust the shoes out a few clicks at a time until I can't get the drum on. At that point I back it off a couple notches until I can get the drum on again. Works for me every time.
If the shoes arent adjusted up right the ebrake wont work. I turn the adjuster wheel down until I can get the drum on, then turn the wheel to adjust the shoes out a few clicks at a time until I can't get the drum on. At that point I back it off a couple notches until I can get the drum on again. Works for me every time.
#15
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Re: ebrake adjustment after replacing rear shoes (Digithalgravel)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Digithalgravel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">changed out the rear shoes on my 93 civic and now the ebrake doesnt hold. everything was installed and put back correctly. the pedal stops the wheels, but not the ebrake. i adjusted it according to archives, and even with the bolt all the way tightened, the ebrake will be tight, probly like 4-5 clicks, but it still wont hold the wheels. any other way in the drums to adjust it? or other method. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you have the drums resurfaced?
Provided that you reassembled and adjusted everything properly (which it doesn't seem that you are sure of), it is possible that the drum's surface is grooved and that the friction material on the shoes is only contacting part of the drum. If this is the case, you should have the drums cut or replaced.
Did you have the drums resurfaced?
Provided that you reassembled and adjusted everything properly (which it doesn't seem that you are sure of), it is possible that the drum's surface is grooved and that the friction material on the shoes is only contacting part of the drum. If this is the case, you should have the drums cut or replaced.
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If the pedal is stopping the shoes they're adjusted fine.
It doesn't sound like the problem at all, it sounds like your e-brake cable isn't attached to the drum properly.
I don't know what pple are talking about putting the drum on so it's "loose" - I learned it a diff way.
Pull of the drum and adjust the spindle as the shoes come out, keep trying to fit the drum over the shoes. Eventually they'll be out far enough that it'll be a bit tough to get the drum around the shoes and they'll rub against the drum a bit (offer a bit of resistance) and be a bit hard to turn. That's when they're set. Then you go drive it around and they'll adjust properly.
Though like I said, if the brakes are working fine, this doesn't sound like a shoe adjustment issue, it sounds more like a cable issue.
It doesn't sound like the problem at all, it sounds like your e-brake cable isn't attached to the drum properly.
I don't know what pple are talking about putting the drum on so it's "loose" - I learned it a diff way.
Pull of the drum and adjust the spindle as the shoes come out, keep trying to fit the drum over the shoes. Eventually they'll be out far enough that it'll be a bit tough to get the drum around the shoes and they'll rub against the drum a bit (offer a bit of resistance) and be a bit hard to turn. That's when they're set. Then you go drive it around and they'll adjust properly.
Though like I said, if the brakes are working fine, this doesn't sound like a shoe adjustment issue, it sounds more like a cable issue.
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Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the pedal is stopping the shoes they're adjusted fine.
It doesn't sound like the problem at all, it sounds like your e-brake cable isn't attached to the drum properly.
I don't know what pple are talking about putting the drum on so it's "loose" - I learned it a diff way.
Pull of the drum and adjust the spindle as the shoes come out, keep trying to fit the drum over the shoes. Eventually they'll be out far enough that it'll be a bit tough to get the drum around the shoes and they'll rub against the drum a bit (offer a bit of resistance) and be a bit hard to turn. That's when they're set. Then you go drive it around and they'll adjust properly.
Though like I said, if the brakes are working fine, this doesn't sound like a shoe adjustment issue, it sounds more like a cable issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks i fixed it
It doesn't sound like the problem at all, it sounds like your e-brake cable isn't attached to the drum properly.
I don't know what pple are talking about putting the drum on so it's "loose" - I learned it a diff way.
Pull of the drum and adjust the spindle as the shoes come out, keep trying to fit the drum over the shoes. Eventually they'll be out far enough that it'll be a bit tough to get the drum around the shoes and they'll rub against the drum a bit (offer a bit of resistance) and be a bit hard to turn. That's when they're set. Then you go drive it around and they'll adjust properly.
Though like I said, if the brakes are working fine, this doesn't sound like a shoe adjustment issue, it sounds more like a cable issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks i fixed it
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Re: (Digithalgravel)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Digithalgravel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thanks i fixed it </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well what was the verdict?
thanks i fixed it </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well what was the verdict?
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Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well what was the verdict?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the star spindle thing wasnt far out enough so it wasnt even between the shoes
thanks
Well what was the verdict?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the star spindle thing wasnt far out enough so it wasnt even between the shoes
thanks
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